Protect 1084 from rust?

Paul Long lines his sheaths with deer skin. I'm not sure how it is tanned, but I do know that it pretty much will not stain any carbon steel knife that I have ever left in one of his sheaths even for LONG periods of time like 15 months.:eek:
 
I treat all my leather sheaths with several coats of SnowSeal, melted in. This seals the pores and prevents the sheath from absorbing moisture and stiffens the leather. I've never had a carbon steel blade stained by chemicals in the leather after this treatment. I store my carbon steel blades with a coat of BreakFree if I'm not going to be using them, but in daily use just wipe them dry before sheathing.
 
The rough forged finish on my knives can promote rust moreso that a polished finish. after it's complete, I use a heat gun to bring the blade temp up a bit and then melt candle wax onto it..... a quick buff and it's good for a long time. The areas that see a lot of friction will discolour.... that's the nature of the beast when using carbon steel.... especially the 10xx series. To me that adds character to the knife. I use to put a forced mustard patina on the shiney bits.... now, I just let it do it's thing.

I use oak-tanned leather from time to time. Of course, I seal them inside and out.... never had a problem in 5 years of sheath making.

Rick
 
Don Hanson III said:
Maybe it's Aldo's fault ;) :D
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Yeah, that's it! That's the ticket! ;)

I guess I wasn't clear in my first post. It wasn't my intent to blame anybody or anything (except my own ignorance) for the pitting. I only mentioned that it's Aldo's steel to get the "mystery metal" question out of the way.

After reading all the comments, I think the answer is two parts:

1) Use something better than Tandy's tooling leather and prep the sheath with mink oil or wax before using it. I could use recommendations for both leather and conditioner.

2) Don't get in such a damn hurry. I knew that sheath wasn't dry, but I thought "It's just oil" and I really really wanted to show off to the Saturday Scrabble crowd.

Thanks again to everyone who took the time to answer.


Doc
 
drdoc said:
Yeah, that's it! That's the ticket! ;)

I guess I wasn't clear in my first post. It wasn't my intent to blame anybody or anything (except my own ignorance) for the pitting. I only mentioned that it's Aldo's steel to get the "mystery metal" question out of the way.

After reading all the comments, I think the answer is two parts:

1) Use something better than Tandy's tooling leather and prep the sheath with mink oil or wax before using it. I could use recommendations for both leather and conditioner.

2) Don't get in such a damn hurry. I knew that sheath wasn't dry, but I thought "It's just oil" and I really really wanted to show off to the Saturday Scrabble crowd.

Thanks again to everyone who took the time to answer.


Doc
Click to expand...
I've used a good bit of Tandys tooling leather and would be very surprised to find that was the culprit.

I would think that #2 is the most likely problem. just make sure the sheath is fully dry before putting the knife in.
 
drdoc said:
Yeah, that's it! That's the ticket! ;)

I guess I wasn't clear in my first post. It wasn't my intent to blame anybody or anything (except my own ignorance) for the pitting. I only mentioned that it's Aldo's steel to get the "mystery metal" question out of the way.

After reading all the comments, I think the answer is two parts:

1) Use something better than Tandy's tooling leather and prep the sheath with mink oil or wax before using it. I could use recommendations for both leather and conditioner.

2) Don't get in such a damn hurry. I knew that sheath wasn't dry, but I thought "It's just oil" and I really really wanted to show off to the Saturday Scrabble crowd.

Thanks again to everyone who took the time to answer.


Doc
Click to expand...

Right there is the problem, I did the same thing with my first sheath:o I didn't get pitting but I did get rust very quickly on 5160. I let the sheath dry out and now I have had no problems with it.
 
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