protecting Case CV steel.

J

jjpryor

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Jul 28, 2008
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I am thinking of getting (for myself) a Case stockman. The model I'm interested in is the Yellow handled CV bladed model. I don't care about patina's, in fact I would like to keep it clean as possible. I'd carry it as a dress knife. I read somewhere of a way to protect the steel, but kind find that thread anymore.
The reason I'm thinking of the CV rather than the SS model is simple, that's what's available for $32 (US).
 
Wipe it down with some mineral oil or a Tuf-Cloth and you should be fine. You'll just need to stay on it more often if you don't want to develop a patina over time.
 
i like the patina, so i just wipe down with mineral oil if i know i'm going to be in a really humid/wet environment, or if i don't know where i'll be. other than that, i leave it to its own devices.

to protect, i would say keep it coated with a very thin film of mineral oil for foodsafe purposes. if you don't care about foodsafe, then use whatever oil you like, but make sure it won't melt the scales if you get synthetic (i'm guessing not an issue since this will be a dress knife?).

i have always heard good stuff about products like tuf-cloth, but haven't used them.
 
I don't think that you can keep a CV Case from developing a patina short of re-coating it frequently. Something like Boeshield or Ballistoil might work but I can't confirm that. All of my CV Cases have developed some sort of character on the blades.
 
In the application you are talking about keeping it simple would mean going SS at least that's my opinion.I like a carbon blade and have a Case Stockman with CV I carry everyday.But it I wanted a dress knife for occasional carry that I didn't want a patina on I would go SS.
 
I heard somewhere that the reason Case started using stainless steel was that collectors wanted something that would stay nice over the long term, with less maintenance.

My Case 6.5 Bonestag Stockman started developing a patina a week after I got it. I wasn't sure up to that point if I wanted it to patina or not, so once the darkening started, I went full bore and started using it in the kitchen full time. It's really nice now - and although Flitz polish will bring it back to the "shiny new" stage, I'm going to leave it as is.

I do have a small Trapper with stainless blades, and after two years, it still looks new.

thx - cpr
 
Case C.V pits easily, but as long as you use the blade enough not to let surface crud make an impact it will be fine. I EDC a Canoe in C.V in sub tropical Brisbane and its been fine. I dont bother with any wipes but I did convex it and the final polish was #2000 so the mirror polish probably contributes a lot to the lack of pits.
 
jjpryor said:
I am thinking of getting (for myself) a Case stockman. The model I'm interested in is the Yellow handled CV bladed model. I don't care about patina's, in fact I would like to keep it clean as possible. I'd carry it as a dress knife. I read somewhere of a way to protect the steel, but kind find that thread anymore.
The reason I'm thinking of the CV rather than the SS model is simple, that's what's available for $32 (US).
Click to expand...

I grew up wear the only knife you can buy is a CV bladed Case (Soddy). I never cared what a blade looked like, but it has to cut. However to answer you, use medicinal mineral oil on the joints, & as needed, wipe down the blade with alchohol. (I learned this by accident, 1 of my soddies is 3 yrs old, the other is 12.) The 12yo I cleaned with alchohol for "surgery" it looks the same as my Buck 303, dull, but not dark.
 
I've used this concoction for over 30 years and it keeps my blades like new.

In a small metal measuring cup or (clean) tin can, melt together equal parts of yellow beeswax ("BW") and plain (unmedicated) Vaseline (petroleum jelly="PJ"). Pour into an old 35mm film-can for storage.

This makes a stiff wax/grease about the consistency of shoe polish. If too stiff, add more PJ and melt/mix. Add more BW to thicken it if it's too sloppy.

To preserve your carbon steel blade, cast iron, etc, coat the object with the BW/PJ grease. For long term storage, coat as above but then warm the blade with a cigaret lighter, hair dryer, etc to melt the grease on the blade. This coats any tiny spots you missed in the initial coat.

This is OK for food prep knives, as both beeswax and petro-jelly are non-toxic and essentially taste/smell free.

The beeswax in this goop makes it stick like crazy to the metal so it won't easily rub off like mineral oil does. It's much more sticky and stays-put much better than any straight petro grease, lithium greass, bearing grease, etc.

This stuff is also excellent as a leather waterproofer (use like shoe polish: rub on then buff), and as a great lube for low-speed, high pressure metal joints; such as pliers, gate hinges, bicycle chains, etc. The beeswax has very high "film strength" meaning it works well to prevent metal-metal contact when used as a lube.

I make a batch large enough to keep a film-can full in the kitchen junk-drawer, my toolbox, my car, and in the garage.

It doesn't work too well in places where you need a light, thin oil...too heavy.

BTW, beeswax is available in 1-4 oz blocks at most big hardware stores like Ace, etc.

JMH
 
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