Protecting Stitching without a Welt.

[Omega Leather Works]

Got some run-out? Might need some work.

I ran this (before your last post) by Nathan the Machinist (resident guru). This was his reply-

Quote/He could mount a needle in a drill chuck. If it won't reach you can get a drill chuck to straight shank adapter to mount a small drill chuck in a larger drill chuck.

I'd center up on a drill in a vise with a dial indicator in the spindle and then run a shaft down on a drill to make a tool holder from a shaft mounted in the spindle. Just drill a hole and add a set screw./QUOTE

Considering the run-out, if you plan on doing more leather work, it may just be easier to buy a bench top press. Obviously if it's a nice floor model and you use large drills, or won't need a needle often, it's worth exploring the option of fixing it. My press runs pretty true, but it has a leaky bearing. I'll be replacing it with a junk HF press. That's what I've got now but it's quite old. Surprising, how much better even the old Chinese presses were compared to the ones they sell now. Mine has a heavy (for its size) table and there's almost no plastic on it. The new ones have terrible tables and plastic all over. Maybe I should see if anyone sells parts for the old ones.

Gary's idea is a good one. I almost said the same, but I haven't done it myself and didn't want to advise, but I've seen it done and can be quite lovely. Another thing you can do if your leather is thin is to roll the edge making a integral welt, but there's no reason to do it that way unless for some reason you really like the look.

Lastly, if your only option is to drill larger holes you can braid the edge with cordage or leather lace. There's one gal around here that does it to great effect using kevlar I believe. Braiding can look awesome if it's done well. Some people think of it as simple or cheesy, that's probably due to the kits that come with plastic cord for the job, but well executed it looks as good or sometimes better than a nice saddle stitch and burnish.

 

[Almightyox]

Well this nice slip has been riding in my pocket all day at work, and implementing some of the techniques expressed in my last thread my color hasn't run into my pocket lining at all. I really like the way it came out and I should have pics up by midnight so you guys should check it out

 

[Almightyox]

There's a way but in the end it's a bit more work, I made the sheaths in this thread without a welt, short answer is wet forming around the knife while the blade is raised up off the back of the sheath, so in essence the side of the formed leather doesn't protect the thread directly, the edge is now higher due the forming.

See this thread here

the sheaths in that thread were made for folks that I 'promised' them as I don't usually take on fixed blade sheaths...
G2

Very nice work as usual Gary. How big is the elkskin lining? Does it line the sheath the length of the blade or does it just snug up the top portion near the handle?

 

[Gary W. Graley]

Not the entire sheath, just the opening in order to snug up against that one knife without any contour or guard.

The other two sheaths further down rely on the guard of the knife for retention, but are also formed around the blade so there isn't any welt, but, this probably isn't something you'd be wanting to do. A welt certainly would add a measure of safety.
G2

 

[Almightyox]

So basically no part of the actual blade of the knife is in contact with the sheath since it is held so tightly up top? That is a great idea!

 

[sheathmaker]

Okay, my friend, you dodged the bullet with regard to scrapping the sheath…BUT…That sheath depends entirely upon inserting the knife very carefully so as to NOT make contact with the lower stitches. Inattention to insertion or an accidental bump on the top of the knife will send that sharp guillotine blade straight through the toe of the sheath. The same is true even if you have the extra tight pad at the top of the sheath. Care of insertion and no accidental bumps is the key. In the future a welt is the only semi positive way to protect the stitches…even then if you JAM the knife into the sheath you may cut the stitches, and some of your customers may just do this. Guillotine chisel grinds a prone to do this. Other grinds, not so much.

Good Luck

Paul

 

[Gary W. Graley]

So basically no part of the actual blade of the knife is in contact with the sheath since it is held so tightly up top? That is a great idea!

It works on some but, it is a bit of work to get it looking right, as noted in that other thread, I wrap plastic wrap around the knife and also a mock blade of leather so that keeps the blade up from the deck or bottom of the sheath. You can't do as good a job just trying to press the handle down as you do it, you need to be able to press quite strongly to form around the blade.
G2