Prototypes

Joined
May 27, 2013
Messages
199
Hello,

today I wanted to share with you a story of how I screwed up, sort of. I was trying to make a camp knife. Made a sketch of my design, scribed my drawing onto some 80CrV2 and off I went to grinding my camp knife prototype....and it did not go too well, at least on my first try.

Before I tell you how I sort of messed up my Prototype here is a picture of what the camp knife design should look like as a reference. This is the second one I made, a 17,5cm long blade with a nice belly and a high saber grind:
(now I'm not saying this is a good camp knife design or anything, but it turned out exactly like I wanted it to turn out)
VUB7FI.jpg


Most of the time when I try a new design I screw something up. This time I was just lazy, did not pay enough attention and did not scribe my center line correctly. Then I ground the tip to thin and I messed up freehanding the clip grind. I just ended up overcorrecting and making the clip bigger and bigger. So I ended up with a sort of bowie design with a ridiculously large clip grind:
g3aBHB.jpg


It is about 1cm shorter than the other blade and has a tip that is probably too thin to work well for a camp knife and on the other hand is not stabby enough to be considered a good bowie knife. But I think it at least looks alright all things considered.

So the point I am trying to make, especially for new makers, is that even if you screw up you can end up with something kinda cool. Also if you pay attention to how you screwed up exactly, you can learn a lot.
Oh and If you are starting out and thinking about making a clip grind, don't try to do all the work on the grinder. Start out on the grinder, but finish it up with files.
 
I actually quite like the look of the clip grind on messed up knife. I know it’s not what you were going for, but I think it also looks good in it’s own right.
 
I'm currently in the same situation. The (what was supposed to be) false clip on this thing was only meant to be 1/4" at the spine, however i messed up one side and so i corrected the other side. To make things worse i messed up that side also and needed to make yet another correction. :rolleyes: Not a good day!

rU7YFwE.jpg


The real kicker is that its differentially hardened.

During this however i did learn that using a slack belt when grinding the clip can be a lot more forgiving than using the platen.
 
I'm currently in the same situation. The (what was supposed to be) false clip on this thing was only meant to be 1/4" at the spine, however i messed up one side and so i corrected the other side. To make things worse i messed up that side also and needed to make yet another correction. :rolleyes: Not a good day!

rU7YFwE.jpg


The real kicker is that its differentially hardened.

During this however i did learn that using a slack belt when grinding the clip can be a lot more forgiving than using the platen.

Blade still looks very good in my book. Did you use the slack belt on the blade in the picture? Because I was originally thinking that, when using a slack belt, you will not get a nice crisp line between primary grind and clip.
 
Blade still looks very good in my book. Did you use the slack belt on the blade in the picture? Because I was originally thinking that, when using a slack belt, you will not get a nice crisp line between primary grind and clip.
The clip was initially shaped with the platen, but the fairly tight slack belt does a really nice job of cleaning it all up because the belt tends to conform with the surface instead of working against it. The lines imo aren't noticeably less crisp when done with the slack belt, i do however like to use a stone afterwards anyway during the hand sanding process, just to clean them up.
 
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