how does micron compare to grit? and how do those compare to the difference grades of rouge?
The Magic Eight Ball says...
http://www.facetingmachines.com/grit-mesh-micron.shtml
BAM! Be advised that Japanese grit numbers -- as in waterstones -- are not on the same scale as these.
As you can see, a 9 micron belt (when new) is pretty damned fine for what we're doing here. #1800 is easily fine enough to shave body hair with, although I wouldn't want to trim whiskers dry with it. As finer belts are costly and hard to find, I don't bother; I just skip from 9 micron to the leather belt and chromium oxide, then hand strop if necessary a few times after that. If I'm
really taking my time and being careful I'll follow a fresh 9 micron belt with one that's nearly worn out, as this tends to leave a more polished finish than a new one.
By comparison, the Lee Valley green honing compound is .5 micron/#60,000, IIRC. Going from 9 to .5 micron (as some of us do) is a pretty big jump, but using a charged leather belt on powered equipment makes it possible. The only other compounds that I have laying around are what Sears makes; you'd have to ask them for the specifics. Without knowing more I believe the white one to leave the finest finish, although I can't prove that. The black seems to be the coarsest.
The advantage of some approaches over others is not the degree of polish left, but rather the comparison between the resulting polish and the aggression of the medium. I really like the finer belts that Lee Valley sell because they're quite aggressive for the finish that they leave; the 15 micron in particular cuts incredibly fast for its smoothness. I like their green compound for the same reason -- it will just about produce a mirror finish but it won't take all day to do so. Both items will function on the supersteels just fine; I've used both on S30V and ZDP-189, either of which will simply tear up natural hones.
I will repeat for the record that some of us (well, me, at least) tend to refine edges far more than is necessary. A khukuri doesn't need a #1800 or better edge to chop wood; I sharpen my axes on the #120 belt and they work just fine. (And they shave, albeit roughly...even the splitting maul. Edge formation is more important than edge polish.) There's nothing wrong with this, but don't think that a khukuri has to catch hair above the skin to do its job. It doesn't.