Purchasing Vintage Axe - Your advice welcome

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mako20ft

Joined
Mar 23, 2014
Messages
279
Hi gentleman,

My name is Dutch and I live up in Rhode Island. I'm not here a bunch these days but I'd sure like to tap into your knowledge if you would allow me. I've been following these axe threads with huge interest and seem to have caught a mild case of the bug. I've definitely swung more than my share of axes growing up on a Dairy Farm in Northern IN. however never had a reason to pay much attention to the specifics of how a proper axe is put together. Basically, I swung whatever the old man handed me....for hours (and hours).

Anyway, a certain auction site has got me looking and wanting to pick up a very nice vintage axe head stamped "Plumb Victor". The head is listed at 6" x 4" with a 2-1/4" handle opening. Any thoughts on it for a price around $25 shipped? I won't go higher than that. I'd love to hit the flea markets (used to do this with the wife all the time) but time is at a premium with teenagers, work, etc. For right now, I'd rather be swinging the tool making chips than going out on safari for one. And yes, I know that's the fun part but it is what it is.

I did buy a Council Tool Boy's Axe recently just to see if getting out there was a smart idea as I've gotten a bit older. Turns out it's a killer cardio and I get some well deserved down time doing something useful.

Please tell me if you guys think the Plumb Victor for around $20 is a square deal. It would be fun to clean it up and tailor the grind (if need be) to what suits my purpose. If the Plumb isn't a good splitter or general use would you mind suggesting something else I have a reasonable chance of getting. Might be a long shot but perhaps someone on the board has a suitable axe they would like to sell? Either way, at this beginning stage I think it would be smart to keep the total materials under about $75 or so. Not including sweat equity of course :thumbup:

Thank you very much for any input

Dutch S.
 
I forgot to mention the same site has a Plumb Boy's Axe with a BIN of $51 shipped to my home. This one appears to have a good handle and the blade seems in fair condition although the back side will need some TLC with a file.

I'm in no big hurry since I have the Council here but any advice you can share would be great.
 
Plumb is a good spot quality VS $$ brought. Very good quality without being a super collectible. I have several Plumb and Kelly(stamped and not) boys axes and like them very much.

Best bargain is a boys head with ridges in the eye but no stamp- bring very little but very good quality- mostly Kelly Axe manufactured and had paper labeles. I have bought them at flea markets for 1.00 each- never more than 5.00. My secret for flea market is get aup and be there at dawn on Sat, home by 9 and wake family to a fresh cooked breakfast ;) Takes the sting out of me being gone.

Bill
 
I'd really like to add some pics of the axes I'm looking at but the format to do that here on BF is different. Usually I save an image from the web to my computer and then load it to a website from there. This one asks for a URL but I'm not familiar with what that means or how to load an image here.

Forgive my ignorance. I know we don't allow links to Fleabay auctions but I hope it's ok to post the item number? Mods, please crack the whip if this a no-go on BF

Plumb Axe Head: 390939181056

Vintage Council Kentucky Axe: 111471506093

True Temper Kelly Flint: 361058690831
 
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You will need to upload pics to a hosting site then post the "img" link. I use photobucket.

I do not know if it is a violation but posting links to active auctions(as long as they are not yours) can certainly increase competition for said item ;)

I always have a dozen or so items in my watch bin, delete most without ever bidding. It pays to be patient and vigilant. It also pays to walk away when the $$ gets high or pics are not good. Watch for over rounded corners on bit and deformed eyes. Mushrooming at poll and a little rust might get you a lower price and a bargain.

Bill
 
Thanks for the tips. The Plumb Victory (I spelled this wrong earlier but it is definitely "Victory") has no bids on it currently and it's over 12 minutes. If I get it last second it totals $18 to my door. Very little mushroom, modest rust and the maker's stamp is still pretty clear. Seems it would make a good starter build for me but only at the right price.

We shall see....
 
For $10 you really can't go wrong on a presumably 1940-45 (Victory?) stamped implement. If it turns out to be cracked or filed down past the blade temper then simply dress it up to become a Yuppie paperweight and then move it along to the next guy.
 
300Six said:
For $10 you really can't go wrong on a presumably 1940-45 (Victory?) stamped implement. If it turns out to be cracked or filed down past the blade temper then simply dress it up to become a Yuppie paperweight and then move it along to the next guy.
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Well, here is hoping the tool is still serviceable. It's the right size, type and a, I think, a solid vintage name. Should be fun either way but I'll hold off picking up a handle until I have a look see.
 
mako20ft said:
Well, here is hoping the tool is still serviceable. It's the right size, type and a, I think, a solid vintage name. Should be fun either way but I'll hold off picking up a handle until I have a look see.
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Hope shes in good shape still for ya a vinegar bath would expose the temper line to see how much lifes left in the bit.

I just started looking for Plumb victorys. Plumb in general is a great vintage axe manufacturer and the Victory stamp was during or after World War 2.

I haven't filed either of my two down yet but many of the more experienced guys here say the steel on the Plumb Victorys is top notch.
 
Hi mako20ft

I own 5 vintage Plumb axes. Two boys axes(2 1/4 lbs), one totally original 3 1/2 lbs michigan axe with original handle in perfect shape, one 4.5 lbs dayton,
one 5 lb dayton. All five axes will take a razor edge and hold that edge with hard usage.

You probably don't need to worry about running out of heat treated steel as Plumb treated further back from the edge than all of their competition. Two inches
was the norm for advertising of getting twice the life out of your axe.

I believe that you made a great purchase and will most likely keep the axe for the rest of your life.

Enjoy that axe

Ripshin Lumberjack
 
Ripshin Lumberjack said:
Hi mako20ft

I own 5 vintage Plumb axes. Two boys axes(2 1/4 lbs), one totally original 3 1/2 lbs michigan axe with original handle in perfect shape, one 4.5 lbs dayton,
one 5 lb dayton. All five axes will take a razor edge and hold that edge with hard usage.

You probably don't need to worry about running out of heat treated steel as Plumb treated further back from the edge than all of their competition. Two inches
was the norm for advertising of getting twice the life out of your axe.

I believe that you made a great purchase and will most likely keep the axe for the rest of your life.

Enjoy that axe

Ripshin Lumberjack
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Thank you very much for the post. I did as much searching as time allowed and found out the same...Plumb marketed their deep temper line on the edge as superior. They seem to have also produced some heads with the back flat surface (hammering portion) as tempered also. Not all but I don't know enough to speak to how many with or without.

Here is an important question. I don't have a reliable source for Handles around here except Ace Hardware. Classic place stacked to the ceiling with goods but only a few axe handles. I may get lucky and they have what I'm looking for. Do you guys agree that around a 28" to 30" OAL handle (before installing on the axe head) is a sound length? Also, I really like the darker colors I see on some of the handles....is that because they used a variety of red Hickory or, once the handle is stripped, do you think the wood was stained and then oiled?

I could really use the advice on the handle length especially. 2-1/4lb axe head...the guy said he weighed it and it was within a small fraction of that.

Thank you fellas
 
lmalterna said:
I agree- looks like a nice head and will clean up into a good using tool!

Bill
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Oh, it will be used Bill...you can bet the farm on that. I have 3 year seasoned, under cover Maple and and a mix of red and white Oak to work through. I cheated and chainsawed into 16-18" length but the splitting is on me.

Genuinely enjoy the quiet time on Sunday morning when the kids and wife sleep in. Beats the hell out of going to the gym just to "pick things up and put things down" :rolleyes:
 
Old Plumb axes are hard to beat. Victory, Guaranteed, Defense, etc were some common markings. All the same really, just different stamps.

Remember, its not what its worth, it is what someone is willing to pay.

Good luck.
 
Well, it seems I couldn't help myself. I have a 16" All Purpose Schrade (SCAXE-2L) for lengthy backpacking trips. The boy's axe we have been chatting about will serve for both 1-2 day hiking, car camping and limbing on the property. That leaves me the nearly new Council Boy's Axe for home and yard use. There in lies my problem.

Friday night I watched several videos on proper sharpening technique. Saturday morning early I purchased a set of Bastard Files at Ace Hardware, went home and they soaked in kerosene over night. This morning I checked out one of those YouTube videos to make sure I had some of the details memorized and went to work on the Council. I spent about 40 minutes carefully (meaning real careful for my first attempt) grinding the profile and then transitioning to 220 grit up to 600 grit. No two ways about it...this axe is dangerously sharp. It didn't need multiple passes or pressure to shave a stretch of my forearm....it is one and done. So all is well, right?

Unfortunately no. As sharp as the Council Boy's Axe is it simply doesn't have the heft (balls) to split seasoned maple and oak. Once I have the Plumb Boy's Axe in hand and a nice piece of hickory put on correctly (I ordered a 28" Hickory handle late Friday from "House Handles", paid extra for the hand select and also the no-finish applied options) the Council will go in one of the trucks...properly oiled of course. The sweet leather axe cover will go over to the Plumb as well and that set-up will go to work.

That leaves me wanting a heavier vintage axe for splitting duties and felling of small to medium trees (say 8" to around 14" trunk) at the back of my land. Anything heavier or I'm too tired and the Husqvarna is always ready to start. I went back online and almost immediately found a vintage Plumb Double Bit Axe for $41 shipped. The head weighs 3.2lbs, has no visible wear and the original stamp appears quite good.

All this being said...what do you recommend for a proper handle length? My choices are 30" or 32" or 36" in AA hand selected Hickory. I am advised that my size and build are important to this so at 5-9" and 180lbs can anyone lend their opinion? I believe it's really a question of 32" VS. 36" but the 30" is readily available also from "House Handles". I will also be lightly flaming the new handle, staining it, multiple coats of boiled linseed oil, installing and finally doing a 4-6" double wrap under the axe head with 550 Paracord for the occasional miss.


Apologies for the run-on post. I can't help but get into the excitement of this working man's "hobby". I have been a full time finish carpenter since 1988 but this part of woodworking is relatively new to me.
 
I'm 5'9" 180# as well and I like a 32" handle on a full sized felling axe. 36" seems too long when I use my brother's Council Tool axe.
 
Thanks, I've come to the same conclusion. The Double Bit will be here on Thursday and I'll hang it next weekend. Great little project I'm looking forward to.
 
definitely check out the flea markets and antique stores I was in Connecticut this weekend and picked up 6 heads for $5 each they all need some work but that's half the fun. The hunt has become almost more exciting than restoring them at this point Most antique dealers I've dealt with the more surface rust the more likely they are to reduce price. And the rust hides the fact you found a very quality old tool that on one of those auction sites may bring 5 times what you paid. Last bit of advice from another fairly noobie to axe pesto start small and don't be afraid to make a mistake, try and practice on unmarked heads so you aren't so upset when you screw up like I did on a nice head.(I didn't screw up anything rare, just a nice patina on an old Mann jersey).
 
Hard to top an 8# maul with a decent contour (not the modern brick-type crap) on a sledge handle for all-purpose splitting
 
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