Pursuit of the Mirror

morgaj1

morgaj1

Joined
Jan 2, 2012
Messages
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I've had a Wicked Edge system with paddles up to 1,000 grit for a couple of years now. I can get extremely sharp edges and am very happy with the performance. However, lately I have really been interested in getting a mirror edge. In researching, it looks like I will need to go higher with the grit range to remove the scratches and polish the edge. If money was no object, I would get the Chosera stones through 10,000. I also see grit tapes that go this high and are much cheaper. Will I get the same performance from grit tapes as Choseras?
 
Simply put, No.

From stone to stone is often vastly different so from stone to tapes, strops, etc. is going to also be nothing alike.

The Chosera 10k leaves a very nice polish but I wouldn't call it a mirror polish, it's close, but still needs some refinement with polishing compounds.

In pursuit of a mirror edge is all about using each stone to its fullest extent scrubbing every corner of the bevel until all scratch marks are as uniform and complete as possible.
 
morgaj1 said:
I've had a Wicked Edge system with paddles up to 1,000 grit for a couple of years now. I can get extremely sharp edges and am very happy with the performance. However, lately I have really been interested in getting a mirror edge. In researching, it looks like I will need to go higher with the grit range to remove the scratches and polish the edge. If money was no object, I would get the Chosera stones through 10,000. I also see grit tapes that go this high and are much cheaper. Will I get the same performance from grit tapes as Choseras?
Click to expand...

I can get a 'mirror' edge going from a 1k lansky ceramic to green compound on leather strop. Probably not what many here consider a true mirror edge, but I can read reflected phone book text through it!
 
The best mirror edge I have obtained is with a jewelry polishing system.

What I do not like about this level of polish, is it convexes the work. It destroys the bevel points.

It produces wonderful results, but gives a look, I do not usually want. A SharpMaker look, only with more mirror attributes.

To achieve this mirror look, without a metal polishing system, ceramic, and super fine grit, over many hours.


https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3686/13699363773_bb54276c4e_c.jpg
 
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Blade in the background, all done with ceramic has more pronounced angles. The front blade, has a softer look.

The front blade, the edge itself, also bends the light, showing it has a convex profile. The polishing wheels, contribute to even more of a convex look. Good or bad, depending on what you want. Front blade was done with SharpMaker, then polishing wheels. Back blade was all done on the FrankenSharp with SharpMaker rods.

13700071474_29477abe60_b.jpg
 


I got this edge with the wicked edge. Used sandpaper up to 2000 grit rubber banded to the stone. Then a leather strop with green compound.

§ David §
 
I also used simple green on the sand paper. Hoping wet sanding would polish better.

§ David §
 
Just go down to napa or autozone and pick up some 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000 grit wet dry paper (i bought all of them in one pack for like 11.00 bucks, with 3 sheets of each), cut strips, and tape to your paddles. Finish with strop. BLAZINGLY bright polished edges. Let me see if i can find one of my old pics.


 
The key is to really spend the time at each grit to insure that you clean up all the scratches from the previous grit. At the 1 micron and especially the half micron range you will really see a pretty much flawless mirror--go lower and it will be even better under magnification.

Here are some pics I've posted before:





 
The top two are of a CTS-XHP Military that I took to about 10 degrees per side. The bottom pic is of an M390 Para 2 taken to 12.5 degrees per side.
 
NRA,
I suggest that you consider using a Felt Buffing Wheel on one side of your Jewelry Polishing System. You want "Hard" not rock hard, 8" diameter, 1" wide. You can absoutley keep those crisp lines, and produce a flat surface as opposed to the convex surface you get from a layered buffing wheel. I bet you have seen rifles, (Weatherby's come to mind) that have beautiful mirrored bluing jobs. Well, the hard felt buffing wheel is how the steel was polished prior to bluing. You can't do that with a layered cotton buff, as you know, it will kill the lines. A good gunsmith could polish around screw holes without hogging them out, and keep all of the original lines as crisp as new in the finished rebluing job. I doubt that you could do the bevels on your daggers with a 8" wheel, but you may be able to use a hard felt bob on a handy grinder for the wavy bevels. Good luck.....
 
I like my mirror edges, BUT I prefer a non-mirror to a poorly done mirror. At the sub-micron levels, scratches left over from previous grits really stand out, and IMO just looks half-assed. If you want it perfect, prepare to put the time in.
 
It's just about putting in time at each level.

delica_zpsrmxfnvva.jpg


I did that one as an experiment.

First 600grit dmt then 1200dmt stones until it was uniform then BRK black until uniform then BRK green until uniform

Then I took a step back or lateral move not sure

6 micron dia-paste which seemed to brighten it up a little
then three than one.

The picture was taken to be a part way there picture but then my son got home so it's done for now.


It really doesn't take long overall as long as you put in enough time at the beginning
 
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