Putting a cutting edge on....

silver_pilate

silver_pilate

Joined
Oct 30, 2002
Messages
3,974
I've been getting frustrated lately when finishing a knife on the grinder. I've improved quite a bit at getting the types of grind lines I want and getting the handles and everything to fit up (being a perfectionist helps, though my knives are nowhere near perfect :D ); however, I always seem to have problems in going from that final 1/32 edge thickness to the cutting edge.

The bevel you have to maintain to get a clean cutting edge is so narrow, I have a really hard time feeling it and maintaining the exact angle for a clean edge over multiple passes. And it gets very frustrating to see hours of work become less than it was because I can't sharpen worth a darn. Any tips or ideas that you guys use to sharpen and get a nice clean, even cutting edge? Or do I need to more away from the grinder for putting the edge on? This, I assume, would be one of those lovely times when a variable speed control would come in quite handy.

--nathan
 
Nathan,
I have experienced the same thing. I've almost ruined a couple of knives trying to sharpen them the first few times. I used a variable speed Bader III and a usually run it around 30% power. I usually start with a 220 belt and hold it around 15 to 20 degrees (30 to 40 degrees total edge angle) from the plane of the belt. Keep the part of the blade your sharpening in the center of the belt so as you pull the blade across the belt the tip ends up in the center of the belt. Don't pull the tip across the belt or you will end up rounding off your tip. If you are sharpening a recurve you will have to use the edge of the belt to sharpened the recurved portion but remember to end up with the tip in the center of the belt. I also sharpened with the edge down or towards me. After I get a burr, I switch to a 400 grind belt till I get a burr again. It only takes a pass or two. Then I knock the burr off with a buffing wheel that has been waxed so its pretty hard and I'm done. As far as the technique goes that just takes patience and practice. Take your time. It's real easy to take steel off, but hard to put it back on! Hope this helps.
-John
 
I'm using a single speed Grizzly 2X72. So far I've been working against the platten (ceramic) for sharpening, bracing the support hand on the work rest, resting the knife on the support hand, and then using the other hand to draw it across the belt. I've also been doing this all edge up. I generally use a 220 grit belt to put the edge on and then move to the buffer for drawing out the burr and stropping it off.

Guess I need to move to the slack belt for edging then, huh? I definately need to add a spring to the belt tensioner on the grizzly as it is just not tight enough. Livin' and learnin'.

Thanks guys! Any more advice is much appreciated.

--nathan
 
I'd say, get it close, then do the actual sharpening on a guided-type sharpener (Lansky or EdgePro). That'll give you the even, professional-looking edge you're after.
 
MSCantrell said:
I'd say, get it close, then do the actual sharpening on a guided-type sharpener (Lansky or EdgePro). That'll give you the even, professional-looking edge you're after.
Click to expand...

yep if you cant slow the grinder you should just get it close and go to the stones
 
silver_pilate said:
I'm using a single speed Grizzly 2X72. So far I've been working against the platten (ceramic) for sharpening, bracing the support hand on the work rest, resting the knife on the support hand, and then using the other hand to draw it across the belt. I've also been doing this all edge up. I generally use a 220 grit belt to put the edge on and then move to the buffer for drawing out the burr and stropping it off.

Guess I need to move to the slack belt for edging then, huh? I definately need to add a spring to the belt tensioner on the grizzly as it is just not tight enough. Livin' and learnin'.

Thanks guys! Any more advice is much appreciated.

--nathan
Click to expand...

I used to have a Grizzly too. Angle the arm to approx. 10 degrees away from vertical (away from you), use a fresh 120 grit grit belt.

Stand to the side. Make 6 passes one side, six passes the other, keep alternating until you have a burr. Keep the knife vertical and draw it towards you. Use the slack belt portion between the wheel and the platen. Use light pressure or you'll screw it up. If the blade has a belly, as you approach the tip raise the handle.

After you have a visible burr, go to a buffer with white polishing compound and take alternating passes until the burr is gone. Use light pressure, otherwise you'll round off the edge.

P.S. 1/32 is a tad thick (unless you're making a bowie), 0.020" is ideal for a bowie and 0.010" to 0.015" for a hunter/ slicer. :)
 
Good advice. I'll try tipping the arm back and using the slack belt and grinding edge down for sharpening. I'm using O-1 so I don't have to worry too much about warping in the queching if I heat it even, so I'll try and go thinner before I HT. Thanks again everyone!

--nathan
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top