Putting a real hamon on miniatures.

[McSanchez]

Anyone done it? I have some pattern welded steel scrap from some earlier projects and a ton of w2 scrap to make miniature blades with. I've hardened before in heated transmission fluid with w2 steel. The hidden full tang blade was just under 1.5 inches long and hardened beautifully(sp?). I just semi restored a hamon on a rusty ww2 sword and wondered if I could make a miniature tanto (2in tops) with a real hamon. I've never done a full sized hamon and my shop isn't big enough at the moment for anything bigger than miniatures so I can't practice. Would practicing on w2 give me somewhat similar results as using 10xx/sumtinsumtin pattern welded? Can't remember what steel it was.

Ive found many recipes for the paste/clay for the hardening and I'm wondering if it makes a big difference in the contrast in the hamon line. The blade will be about 0.25inches wide or so so if my transition area is 1/8th inch wide I'm kinda screwed. Any ideas anyone? Any and all help is appreciated and my results (when I get to them) will be posted.

 

[S.Alexander]

Sorry I can't help, but I'm interested to see your results.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Think about the dynamics going on in the steel that make a hamon. It is the shallow hardening that makes it happen. On a mini, there isn't usually enough thickness or distance between the edge and spine to allow a hamon to form.

What works on a mini is a faux-hamon.
Make the blade and finish it completely ( but don't put on the handle). Use nail polish to coat the spine right up to where the hamon is desired. It should form the hamon shape. Suguha is simplest. Make sure all the blade surface is covered above the hamon. Etch the edge steel in dilute nitric or muriatic acid. Try 50:1. The ha will take on a slightly frosted look. Once etched enough, rub down with some tin oxide or fine grit compound to get a subtle frosted look. If it looks good, remove the nail polish with acetone. Carefully strop the edge to put a bright edge line back on.
This can be given a second step, by masking off the frosted edge below this hamon with nail polish and then etching the ji in FC. This will darken the ji. Some careful rubbing of the ji with Flitz will give it the desired look. Remove the polish and touch up as needed with various polishes and such. Done right, it can make the hamon almost look real.