Pyroceram adhesive

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Apr 24, 2013
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408
Which is the best way of attaching the glass platen so it stays put & there aren't problems later on with movement or shifting. I've seen JB weld recommended, cheap epoxy & silicone(?). Which one will be best for durability? I have some G-Flex in the shop, but is it as good as the JB weld in this case? Thanks, tim
 
I use JB weld and never had a problem yet. Put on a thick layer on the glass and platten and press the glass on with your hand and move it around so it gets full contact. Then make sure it's lined up and let it set. Don't clamp it or it will bow. When I replaced the glass with a new sheet I tried popping the old one off and it would not budge. Even smashing it with s hammers oils not budge it. So I just grabbed a torch and heated the glass and platten and the JB will get soft and let go.
 
Personally, I use some exterior grade double sided carpet tape (Duck brand i think?) that I get from Menards. It's 2" wide. The key is that your platen backer needs to be close to perfectly flat and very clean, and you need a little safety ledge at the bottom. In the years (and multiple pyroceram platen replacements) that I've used it, I've never had it fail, and that includes times when the platen backer was too hot to comfortably hold my hand on for more than a couple seconds.

When it comes time to change the glass, just heat the platen with a heat gun or torch, pry the glass off with a putty knife, and clean with acetone (or whatever) to remove the residue.

I've seen a few guys use VHB tape from 3M, which I've used for other things before. It's a very good tape, but costs a bit more than the carpet tape I use. One roll of the Duck brand tape should last you the rest of your platen changing life.

One guy I knows recommends storing tape (or really any kind of adhesive backed paper, stickers, etc...) in a refrigerator. Supposedly makes it last longer?
 
When the glass for a platen first came out a number of years ago I used JB weld. It's still holding.
 
I use JB Weld and when it's time to replace I put the platen in the toaster oven at 200° F for 15 minutes and the glass pops right off.
 
I use JB Weld and when it's time to replace I put the platen in the toaster oven at 200° F for 15 minutes and the glass pops right off.

Thanks for the tip Chuck, I'm getting ready to remove mine and thought I'd have to grind/break it off.
 
Thanks for the tip Chuck, I'm getting ready to remove mine and thought I'd have to grind/break it off.
The first time I replaced mine I used a hammer, no fun at all. I think it was Stacy that told me about heating it up. Works great.
 
No matter your application, weld a small ledge on the bottom of your steel platen for the ceramic to sit on.
Shit happens - don't let it happen to you.
I run three different platens for varying processes and have been failure proof since the last century.
I have cracked them accidentally and needed to replace them a couple times and about the only way to get them off when using this is in itty, bitty pieces.
Remember than nothing is ever trying to pull your platen cover off - you're always pushing against it.

 
I use JB weld and never had a problem yet. Put on a thick layer on the glass and platten and press the glass on with your hand and move it around so it gets full contact. Then make sure it's lined up and let it set. Don't clamp it or it will bow. When I replaced the glass with a new sheet I tried popping the old one off and it would not budge. Even smashing it with s hammers oils not budge it. So I just grabbed a torch and heated the glass and platten and the JB will get soft and let go.
I too used JB Weld, and that was 12 years ago. Still holding strong. I guess I should replace the glass, as it's a bit hollowed out. sigh.
 
OK guys, many thanks from all for the input. It sounds like the G-Flex is going to be good enough for my needs. The trick about warming in an oven is a good idea for later, if it needs to be replaced in the future. It sounds like there are plenty of ways to make it work & that different adhesives are good. It's a manufactured platen, so fortunately it came with a ledge already in place to hold the glass. I didn't want to tool up to make one in my shop as I don't have the machine tools. It comes from Knifegrinderparts & is a quality piece in the build, fit & finish departments.

Once I get this thing up & running I'll take a few pictures to show how it looks & works. Should make life much easier for grinding than the 1x30 HF cheapie I started with!
 
I use a lot of g-flex and would recommend it for anything except this application. I don't think, although I'm not positive, that the G-flex will take the heat. I used JB Weld for that reason.
Tim
 
I use JB weld and never had a problem yet. Put on a thick layer on the glass and platten and press the glass on with your hand and move it around so it gets full contact. Then make sure it's lined up and let it set. Don't clamp it or it will bow. When I replaced the glass with a new sheet I tried popping the old one off and it would not budge. Even smashing it with s hammers oils not budge it. So I just grabbed a torch and heated the glass and platten and the JB will get soft and let go.

This spot on. JB Weld is rated to 550F. In practice it doesn't hold that high but it's the highest temp rated epoxy I have found. I'm sure there is some industry stuff rated higher and I would use if I knew what it was. I would not use Gflex or any other typical 2 part epoxy. Most fail right around 220F to 240F. Having a piece of glass come off when the grinder is running wide open isn't something you want to see...or be a part of. Karl points out that heavy duty two sided tape. It's tuff stuff but I haven't used it on glass myself yet but Karl has and it works for him. I have heard of several other two sided tapes fail. When it's time to replace the glass I use a propane torch and heat it off. Some guys will install a little lip or ledge or even screws on the platen to support the glass in case the adhesive fails. I used to do that myself but go lazy and just use JB Weld. Installing fireplace glass is automatic when we build a grinder platen. I wouldn't use one with out it. They don't last forever and will need to be replaced occasionally but the low friction and high wear rate beats a metal platen hands down.
 
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