Q's about jewelers ball pein hammer

fast14riot

fast14riot

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Oct 27, 2010
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So I'm the kind of guy who would rather make my tools than buy them (read that as $broke!), and I've been needing a lighter weight jewelers hammer, something in the 1-2 oz weight range. I have been using 6oz and 8oz ball peins I found at the flea market, but when working with ivory and unstabilized burls I still pucker at both ends when peining 1/16" pins!

My plan is to use a high strength bolt as a head, I can get them for free from a friend who owns vacant industrial/manufacturing sites, and turn it down then heat treat if possible, or just work it hard if I need to. What size radius should I use for the ball end? I was thinking of either 1/8R or 3/16R would be about right. Or should I try for an semi-eliptical shape?


-Xander
 
I made a couple out of damascus for some friends at 2oz each,on the peen end they were simi-eliptical 5/16" diameter about 3/8" long with about an 1/8" radius on the end.Did mine by hand as I'm not that good of a machinist.:o

Stan
 
Thanx Stan, that helps a bunch. I'll be sure to post pics here when I get one done.


-Xander
 
Xander

Here is a pic of my 40 year old Stanley 2 oz,it's what i patterned my hammers on.2"OAL hammer face 1/2" dia.3/4" wide at the eye,1/4"X1/2" eye.

DSCN1169.jpg


Hope this helps,or you can buy a 2oz from Rio Grande for 10 bucks:D

Stan
 
Yep, that helps. If I liked doing things the easy way I would just buy one, same with my knives :D


-Xander
 
Yeah, I do use the flat side when I'm going to grind/file them down, but I've been doing a lot of domed pins lately. I work on straight razors from time to time as well, and they almost always have domed pins.


-Xander
 
Almost all my pins are domed. I use the flat hammer. Using the round end causes you to slip off the edge of the pin head, helping weaken/damage your handle material.
Try this slightly countersink your pin hole, then fully polish the area around the pin head. Using a flat, sharp-edged hammer head-peen downward, then around the pin head until the head is sufficient. Then, buff the pin head in all directions on a buffer until sharp edges are removed.
This is how domed heads were done at the manufacturer.
 
The reason for polishing the scales before and after peening is because an unfinished scale won't polish right next to the pins.
 
High strength bolts are usually made of 4140 ,though offhand I don't know what the hardness specs are.Certainly a good steel for hammers.
 
B7 and B16 bolts have .37 to .49 carbon and about 1% chrome. B 7 tempered to 1100f and the B16 to 1200f. Spec for grade 5 and 8 bolts have between .28 to .55 carbon difference being HT
 
Bill DeShivs said:
The reason for polishing the scales before and after peening is because an unfinished scale won't polish right next to the pins.
Click to expand...

Yes, I do finish and polish my scales before pinning normally, but I usually don't polish my pins unless requested.


-Xander
 
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