Quality Control at Buck

redsquid2

redsquid2

Free-Range Cheese Baby
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Aug 31, 2011
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Hi, Everybody.

I have always had "lockbacks" in the past, so my new Buck is my first linerlock. It is the Vantage Avid Small, and it arrived in the mail yesterday.

I think there are some weird things about it.

1.) I don't know if linerlocks are supposed to "click" when they lock, but my lock-backs in the past always had a "click" to them. With my new Vantage, you can barely hear the liner moving into place when it locks.

2.) The point was not sharp when I got it. I was surprised. I like the point to be needle-sharp. I open lots of packages in shrink-wrap, so I like to be able to puncture the wrap, without damaging what's inside.

3.) In closed position, the left side of the blade is within a hair's width of rubbing against the liner.

4.) It does not snap shut with as much force as my other folders. It just has a little snap in the final 1/4 inch or so, but not as much as my other ones.

Is all this normal? Will the blade keep moving further to the left, until it starts rubbing against the liner?
 
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1. some linerlocks are louder than others, none are as loud as most lockbacks
2. eh, sharpen it?
3. I see this with the Vantages, you can search the issues they have here on BF
4. linerlocks won't snap, they close smoothy until they reach the detent and then you'll feel a bit of resistance

the blade shouldn't move to the liner completely unless the pivot gets super loose. hope this helps
 
Just me, I won't buy Buck folders except for the 110 family. Stick with the stuff they're good at, mostly the 110's plus fixed-blade hunters like the 119 family, the Vanguard, the skinners, or the Nighthawks. All solid, economical fixed blades with good heat treat that perform better than some knives twice their price. But I avoid most of the Buck folders, some have good experiences but quality is mixed at best. To answer your question, sadly this is all TOO normal with Buck folders. I'd return it.
 
Bummer man. I hate getting new knives and they have issues.

1) I don't think they have to click. The important part is the liners location and the lock up. If the blade is solid and the liner isn't to far over to the left or right, all is good.
2)I agree. I like sharp points to. What I do is take a diamond stone and square the point off by grinding the spine a little.
3)Sometimes you can tighten or loosen the pivot and the blade moves over or you can send it to Buck and they'll fix it(along with all the other issues). Personally, as long as it's not hitting the edge I don't mind a few light scratches.
4)Sounds like the detent wasn't made deep enough. If you can hold the knife upside down and shake it and the blade doesn't fall out I'd say you're ok.

All in all I don't think they're major issues. You could send it to Buck and they'll send you a different one. But realistically, you can't expect perfection at this price point.
 
QC on the Vantage series seems to be a little relaxed compared to other models. I've seen a decent number of them with underground tangs so the liner didn't engage out of the box. Didn't take much to fix it, but it DID require taking it apart.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
I've seen a decent number of them with underground tangs so the liner didn't engage out of the box. Didn't take much to fix it, but it DID require taking it apart.
Click to expand...

Interesting. Mine was really hard to engage at first. After opening and closing about 15-20 times, it got easier.
 
1. IMO linerlocks don't really "click" with authority, they "snick". It's normal.
2. That's user serviceable with a good whetstone.
3. You can try to fix that if you have a mini Torx set, and if you don't have a mini Torx set and are getting into this kind of folders, you will need one. Generally around 5 bucks at any hardware store.
4. Linerlocks don't suck the blade in the way lockbacks do.
For fixing #3, just play around with the pivot screw until the blade is centered and the blade still opens easily. before that, take out the pivot screw and put a dab of blue loctite on the threads so that the screw won't move once you set it where you want it.
 
maximus83 said:
Just me, I won't buy Buck folders except for the 110 family. Stick with the stuff they're good at, mostly the 110's plus fixed-blade hunters like the 119 family, the Vanguard, the skinners, or the Nighthawks. All solid, economical fixed blades with good heat treat that perform better than some knives twice their price. But I avoid most of the Buck folders, some have good experiences but quality is mixed at best. To answer your question, sadly this is all TOO normal with Buck folders. I'd return it.
Click to expand...

The Vantage series knives are as good as any 110, and as for Buck folders in general, Buck makes some of the best folders on the market. I know this is your opinion and you have the right to give it, But I completely dis agree. Yes there are a few issues with the Vantage and as many times as its been talked about everybody should know the solutions to the problems. You can't compare the clicks and pops of a 110 to a liner lock, because they are two totally different locking systems. one has a spring which makes things go pop and the other works on gravity. There's no need to return the knife. tighten or loosen the the pivot screw to fix the blade issue and sharpen the thing the way you like it.
 
Mostly true, but with a 110 or a 112 you have a stronger knife and you won't have to worry about adjustments or loose screws.

Liner locks really have no reason for existing that I can see (except to make big profits by selling to guys who like to play with problem-prone, quirky knives that need a lot of maintenance).
 
BG42EDGE said:
Mostly true, but with a 110 or a 112 you have a stronger knife and you won't have to worry about adjustments or loose screws.

Liner locks really have no reason for existing that I can see (except to make big profits by selling to guys who like to play with problem-prone, quirky knives that need a lot of maintenance).
Click to expand...

BG it appears that we do disagree, I realize the 110/112 is a great knife and built to take a bullet and keep going(JUST AN EXPRESSION, PLEASE DO NOT SHOOT YOUR 110s) but there is a place in this world for 110 and liner locks. I have every Vantage Buck makes and I haven' had not one of the problems that get discussed here, all too often. If you Buck could lighten up the 110, put a pocket clip on it and be able to deploy it a bit faster maybe I would carry one. But for one I don't wear a belt, tight Wranglers and cow boy boots. The 110 just doesn't fit with urban decor, IMO...
 
Well, if they lighten it up--it vill not be STRONG--like TANK!!!

:)

I don't wear none of them cowboy clothes, either......I wear the good tough Cabela's pants with about eleventeen pockets and one small one down on the side of the right leg is just perfect for the 110 or 112.

I don't see why I have to deploy my 112 fast, either. I just don't think that will ever make a difference.

If speed of deployment ever seems to be a good reason to carry a weaker knife......I'll do it. But I don't ever see that happening--especially since I carry a gun.

But, to each his own, we always say.
 
if you want a nice little Buck buy a #55. I ahve one and if is a real nice knife and a very nice pocket size and weight just prefect.
 
In the last month I've bought four Buck 112', and two Buck 55. Prior to that I have purchased five 110', and two Vantage Selects. Of these 13 knives, the only ones with any QC "issues" (and these were cosmetic only), where the two 55'. Also, one of the 112' had a small dent/gouge in one of the brass bolsters that had mostly been polished out. The others were all fine. The only ones, I'd hesitate purchasing again are the two 55', because cosmetic issues, irritate me. Interestingly the two 55' came in boxes dated from November and December of 2011, but both knives have the 2010 date stamp. Both purchased from Amazon.

Forgot to mention, I also have a half dozen or more Buck 301/303, and they've all been fine. With the exceptions mentioned above, I generally think of Buck as a well made in the U.S.A., affordable knife. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them based on my experience with their quality.
 
I think I'll keep this one. In retrospect, maybe a #55 would have been better. Hindsight 20/20.

The more I carry and use my Vantage, the more I like it. I like the scales. Yes, I do like the dymondwood. It isn't the Rastafarian/Hippie - colored dymondwood. It's gray/black. I LIKE it. I like the 13C26. I like the clip; makes it easy to carry and get to. I like the fact that it's made in U.S.A.

The way the blade closes off-center is a minor issue, and for the price, it's a good deal. The only other knife I seriously considered was a Spyderco Delica 4. Nice knife, but I really did not need to spend that kind of money. The Vantage is almost half the price, and I think it will suit me fine.
 
The Vantage would suit anybody fine, it a matter of getting use to something different, Sometimes it's hard to break away from the norm and try something new BG. I have no hesitation in saying that the Vantage is just as much of a tank as a 110.
 
Vantage as tough as the 110???

Oh, I suspect that in ten years most of the Vantages will be in several pieces and the 110s will still be cruising along without missing a beat.

Is there no science to back that up?

Somebody should do a torture test.

:D
 
BG42EDGE said:
Vantage as tough as the 110???

Oh, I suspect that in ten years most of the Vantages will be in several pieces and the 110s will still be cruising along without missing a beat.

Is there no science to back that up?

Somebody should do a torture test.

:D
Click to expand...

In 10 years, the Vantages will be keeping right up, if not passing the 110's. A well done linerlock, just as a well done lockback will last us our lifetime, and our childrens too.
 
BG42EDGE said:
Vantage as tough as the 110???

Oh, I suspect that in ten years most of the Vantages will be in several pieces and the 110s will still be cruising along without missing a beat.

Is there no science to back that up?

Somebody should do a torture test.

:D
Click to expand...

There's no science to back that up only because the Vantage is so new. Time will only tell. But, if used properly like any tool it will last as long as any 110. Save the thread and we will revisit it in ten years. I believe the currently used upgraded steels are better and will out last the current base line steel 440Hc
 
Hardly a fair comparison anyway.

Any inquisitive nitwit with a screwdriver and some time on his hands will probably be making adjustments or taking the Vantage apart.

The 110 is not quite so vulnerable to stupidity.
 
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