Quasi-poll: Reprofiling RATs

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Well, since I apparently can't lurk my way into the "RAT pack", I need to pad my post count, so here goes...

I'm fixin' to reprofile my RC-4 on a DMT Diasharp, after having extremely good results with my Kabar D2 Impact. I was just wondering, as an informal poll, if you guys generally take down the edge of your RAT cutlery or just sharpen it at the standard 40 deg. inclusive?
 
My Dear Friend,

I have been in this quandry myself of late - I keep debating reprofiling for a convex edge but want to play with it a bit first on other knives until I get the hang of it.

Experience has taught me that 40 degrees is a great working edge for hard-use knives. Certainly the RAT Knives will take a much finer edge (read: screaming sharp) but I somehow think that edge durability might suffer a bit. I will probably drop the edge on my RC-4 to 30 degrees and see how it holds up. :D

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Hannibal
 
Dr. Hannibal Lecter said:
My Dear Friend,

I have been in this quandry myself of late - I keep debating reprofiling for a convex edge but want to play with it a bit first on other knives until I get the hang of it.

Experience has taught me that 40 degrees is a great working edge for hard-use knives. Certainly the RAT Knives will take a much finer edge (read: screaming sharp) but I somehow think that edge durability might suffer a bit. I will probably drop the edge on my RC-4 to 30 degrees and see how it holds up. :D

--------
Hannibal
Click to expand...

What he said. :) I've been considering dropping the angle on my Izula, but just never muster up the energy to do it. My RATs cut well enough as is. :cool:
 
My Dear Friend,

FortyTwoBlades said:
What he said. :) I've been considering dropping the angle on my Izula, but just never muster up the energy to do it. My RATs cut well enough as is. :cool:
Click to expand...

No question that my Izula will be dropped to a maximum of 30 degrees shortly - I don't see myself batoning with it so a more steep blade angle shouldn't be an issue, and really want that particular RAT to be just ridiculously sharp.

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Hannibal
 
I've been tempted to convexone of my RC-6 knives, but all my RATS are so hair splitting sharp Why bother. All I need to do is strop so far and the edges have not degraded at all.
 
Dr. Hannibal Lecter said:
My Dear Friend,



No question that my Izula will be dropped to a maximum of 30 degrees shortly - I don't see myself batoning with it so a more steep blade angle shouldn't be an issue, and really want that particular RAT to be just ridiculously sharp.

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Hannibal
Click to expand...

I've done it. In fact, I've dropped my RAT3 to 30 inclusive as well. They are both very scary sharp now. The RAT3 (yes, the old Ontario version) has not suffered any edge damage whatsoever, and I beat on it pretty severely.
 
My Dear Friend,

raindog101 said:
I've done it. In fact, I've dropped my RAT3 to 30 inclusive as well. They are both very scary sharp now. The RAT3 (yes, the old Ontario version) has not suffered any edge damage whatsoever, and I beat on it pretty severely.
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That is very good to know! I know what I'll be working on getting done this week-end! My thanks! :thumbup:

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Hannibal
 
Dr. Hannibal Lecter said:
I know what I'll be working on getting done this week-end! My thanks! :thumbup:
Click to expand...

It will be done fast. These knives are just so maintainable and even giving it another profile is done in a breeze. Great little knives ... love my Izula ...

______________
RAT Pack #28
 
My Dear Friend,

KintlaLake said:
That's exactly where I am, Doc. ;)
Click to expand...

There are some amazing videos on YouTube about the process. I have a custom Bushcrafter from CKE Knives I think I'll start with for practice, as it is already convexed. If I can manage to get that one screaming sharp I'll look more closely at my beloved RC-4. :cool:

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Hannibal
 
Dr. Hannibal Lecter said:
My Dear Friend,



There are some amazing videos on YouTube about the process. I have a custom Bushcrafter from CKE Knives I think I'll start with for practice, as it is already convexed. If I can manage to get that one screaming sharp I'll look more closely at my beloved RC-4. :cool:

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Hannibal
Click to expand...

I used my new belt sander to put those screaming sharp convex edges on my RATs. I've always had poor luck reprofiling on my strops, so I went to the power tools:D. I blunted the tip on the Izula, because I didn't really know what I was doing (yeah, I know, why practice on a perfectly good knife? Well, it's the cheapest one I own, so it wouldn't hurt too much to replace it if I screwed it up), but it was easy to get it back to pointy. You just need to watch yourself a little more when using a belt sander, things can happen pretty quick!
 
My Dear Friend,

raindog101 said:
I used my new belt sander to put those screaming sharp convex edges on my RATs. I've always had poor luck reprofiling on my strops, so I went to the power tools:D. I blunted the tip on the Izula, because I didn't really know what I was doing (yeah, I know, why practice on a perfectly good knife? Well, it's the cheapest one I own, so it wouldn't hurt too much to replace it if I screwed it up), but it was easy to get it back to pointy. You just need to watch yourself a little more when using a belt sander, things can happen pretty quick!
Click to expand...

*IF* I do it I'll be using a very aggressive sandpaper and a mouse pad. Power tools scare hell out of me when operating around my knives. :eek: :D

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Hannibal
 
I have a RC6 and I tried reprofiling it down to a 30 degree (15 per side). It turned the knife into a wicked slicer, but whenever I would try chopping a hard wood I would start to get some very small chips. I wished that I would have left it at 40. 40 was plenty for most tasks.
 
Dr. Hannibal Lecter said:
My Dear Friend,



*IF* I do it I'll be using a very aggressive sandpaper and a mouse pad. Power tools scare hell out of me when operating around my knives. :eek: :D

---------
Hannibal
Click to expand...

They are certainly deserving of an extra dose of caution. But, with a steady hand, they can do wonders with steel. The learning curve is not too terribly imposing, either. What can I say, I'm a convert. I'll only use my strops now for touchups, or in the field. IMO, the belt sander is the way to go.
 
Sam30V said:
I have a RC6 and I tried reprofiling it down to a 30 degree (15 per side). It turned the knife into a wicked slicer, but whenever I would try chopping a hard wood I would start to get some very small chips. I wished that I would have left it at 40. 40 was plenty for most tasks.
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Yes, on an RC6 that was to be a dedicated chopper, a 40 degree bevel, or microbevel, makes sense. My RATs do much more slicing, which 30 degrees is perfect for.
 
I do a "ghetto convex" on most of my blades. I really just lay some sandpaper onto my strop and knock the shoulders off. Especially on coated blades.

Then I just freehand sharpen them. Thicker edges on my bigger, chopping blades, thinner on my smaller EDC type blades.
 
On my knives I put a 40 degree angle. It depends what you are using it for and how often you want to sharpen it.
 
I bought an RC4 that had it's edge convexed...I don't like it. I prefer the stock edge that came on my RC3.

What are the benefits of a convexed edge? I like the standard V grind for thick blades like the RC4.
 
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