Quasi-poll: Reprofiling RATs

[onado2000]

You guys get very technical about edge geometry and grind type. I leave it at is, I figure they make great knives and each has its own purpose and reason for being manufactured that way. If, for example, you need a thin slicer, why reprofile your -4 or -6, get a -3 instead or an Izula. I realize liberty & to each their own, but I also see a quite few that regret changing the edge (and its permanent), and less that are happy they did so. IMO, knives are tools, and if you needed a 2 inch phillips head, would you cut a six inch screwdriver down? I guess that’s why I carry 4 knives most of the time, right tool for the job at hand. Just MO & if nothing more debating a topic like this has potential to add a few more to post # totals.

 

[Sam30V]

Yes, on an RC6 that was to be a dedicated chopper, a 40 degree bevel, or microbevel, makes sense. My RATs do much more slicing, which 30 degrees is perfect for.

Good point. It really does depend on your use. When I ground mine down to 30 it was great for slicing them home grown maters of mine.

 

[KintlaLake]

I do a "ghetto convex" on most of my blades. I really just lay some sandpaper onto my strop and knock the shoulders off.

That's what I've done -- over time, rather that re-profiling blades that're already sharp. The missus is from Morgantown, so we're more inclined to call it "hillbilly convexing."

Especially on coated blades.

Explain, please. I think I know why.

 

[JTC]

I think convexing might be a good idea on an RC-3 or Izula but I think I would leave it as is on anything bigger.