Quench Questions

C

cartierusm

Joined
Feb 23, 2017
Messages
69
I'm rather anal about everything so if someone could advise I'd appreciate.

I'll be doing pattern welded steel in 1084, 1095, 15N20, etc... etc...

I'm using the rebranded Parks 50 from Maxim.

I know a little about it have researched here as well.

Use between 50-120F. So no need to heat it, I live in CA. And don't use above that if I'm doing multiple blades.

I see lots of videos of people quenching in oil and then pulling it out after a few seconds. What's that all about? Obviously they're timing their quenches. I thought with the pro stuff, Parks 50, you quench, from what I've read, until it's able to be handled or until the oil stops moving (eddying around the hot blade)?
 
There are only 3 reasons to interrupt a quench like that, that I'm aware of. 1, to straighten the blade while it's below 900f and above 400f; 2, to try and initiate greater hamon activity; 3, to make flames for TV.
 
Kurakai summed it up well.

I quench and hold it in the oil for about 3-5 seconds. Then I pull it out to check and correct any warp or twist. I then return it to the oil to cool down slowly as it crosses the martensite start ( Mf).
 
It depends on the blade for me. Things I've done enough to know they never warp I'll just leave in the oil until cool. Other things I'll quench for the 3-5 seconds, and then switch to a plate quench to keep everything flat
 
The we metallurgists have a Shaman there to tell the future from watching the pattern of the flames !! :)
 
Did anyone else see the fellow on FIF last night who set his wash tub quench tank on fire to warm it up? That was a bit scary.
 
Yeah, that was dicey. He did a good job though, considering he was on his own.
 
Yes, his HT quench into 200F oil made the edge too soft. Otherwise, I think he might have won.
 
I hadn't put that together, but you could be right. I assumed it was a geometry issue.
 
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