Quench speed

For 10XX and W steels, Butch's "magic" is correct.
However, for the vast majority of steels, it is not quite right in wording. Steels with slower cooling curves should NOT be fast quenched. 5160, O-1, L-6, stainless, etc. all should be done in the proper oil matched to the speed needed.

I would reword it to say;
Here is the magic:
Quench the steel you want in the proper quenchant to fully harden it.
Once you get the steel as hard as it can be, you can temper it to the hardness and toughness you need it at.
 
Great thread here too! If I would have been paying better attention I wouldn't be asking questions in another thread that were covered here! Der
 
For 10XX and W steels, Butch's "magic" is correct.
However, for the vast majority of steels, it is not quite right in wording. Steels with slower cooling curves should NOT be fast quenched. 5160, O-1, L-6, stainless, etc. all should be done in the proper oil matched to the speed needed.

I would reword it to say;
Here is the magic:
Quench the steel you want in the proper quenchant to fully harden it.
Once you get the steel as hard as it can be, you can temper it to the hardness and toughness you need it at.


It is always better to move from A1 to Ms as fast as possible, and than move from Ms to Mf slowly. Just find a proper coolant :D

But most universal advice would be just to look at CCT.
 
It is always better to move from A1 to Ms as fast as possible, and than move from Ms to Mf slowly. Just find a proper coolant ...
What I have learned thus far tells me different. If that were true, an interrupted water quench would be the best for everything..
 
thanks for the translations.
Rick im sticking with my magic .... mostly.
Stacy we plate quench steel that woudl harden ok in air. why ? and also there are those that freeze there plates to get a bit more speed. data sheets call for some "air hardening" steels to be quenched in oil (not fast oil tho). now i know that data sheets are ind. std. and not likely for thin knife blade shapes.

so i l say i still want to harden fast then temper even the higher alloy stuff, but as with everything you got to find what works for the maker
 
I freeze my plates all the time..I end up laying the dry ice on them while the knife is soaking..Some air hardening steels like 3V need a fairly fast quench, the cold plates work like a charm.
 
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