Quench Tank Build

KnuckleDownKnives

KnuckleDownKnives

Time to make the doughnuts..
Joined
Feb 12, 2015
Messages
1,715
Finally getting around to finishing my PID controlled quench tank. I'm not going to be using the heating element in the picture, I'll be using a water heater heating element I'm picking up today. I just ordered a 12v electric fuel pump from amazon and a 4A 120v to 12V transformer to power the pump.

The outlet for the pump will be in the center at the bottom pointing up and the inlet will be at the top to get a good circulation.


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On my 10 gallon quench tank, I used a 12 gallon water heater. The element was already there so I didn't have to rig one up. I used the existing thermostat, too. 130F is right in the middle of the setting range. I added a recirculation pump from the bottom (cold) port to the top (hot) port. On the inside, I used a piece of copper pipe with an elbow to direct the flow straight up the center from the bottom. I just crimped the end and wedged it in the bottom port hole. I could have used some JB weld, but it stayed in place OK by tension. I used a 12VDC transmission oil pump to circulate the oil. I added a transmission oil auxiliary radiator and a 12VDC fan so it would cool the quench after multiple quenches. I used a water temperature fan control switch to turn the fan on and off as needed. The whole setup cost about $200.00.

Here is the old build thread:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/10-gallon-quench-tank.396663/
The old photos in the thread are gone, but I'll look around for them this weekend.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith Where did you get your pump? I got a small 4-7 psi 12v fuel pump off of amazon and it's either a piece of crap which I think it is or it just won't pump oil and I burnt it up. Till makes noise but pulled it off and it won't even pump water now if it even ever would.
 
Cool. I bought a 2 round 120mm mortar can a while back. I think that it is a little taller than your 81mm can. I originally wanted a single round 155mm or 8 inch projo or powder bag tube, but in hindsight, the shape of the 120mm mortar can is probably more suitable for our purposes even though it is not quite as burly. You can quench something like an integral hawk in the 120 can which you could not do with a 155mm can.
 
Not sure haven't measured any really. This was just easily available at a hardware store near my office. It holds 6 gallons leaving about 4 inches from the top.

I've narrowed it down to the pump I bought is just a piece of crap. Win some loose some with the $15 amazon buys. I'll just order the decent one from the parts store for $40. I know Holley makes decent products.
 
The only thing I see missing is stability. Awful tall and narrow. Might want to find a way to keep it upright at all times.
 
Yup ! Tipping that with hot oil would make you move real fast !
 
Matthew Gregory said:
The only thing I see missing is stability. Awful tall and narrow. Might want to find a way to keep it upright at all times.
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Haven't gotten there yet. Still building. Haven't figured out exactly what I want to do other than I'm thinking heavily on one of the cheap $40 harbor freight welding carts and mounting it where the bottle would go. I'd modify the top shelf so it was flat and not on and angle. This would give me a small area to set things right by the tank if I needed. Like if I'm doing multiple blades as I may do some of my heat treating outside since my forge will be on a rolling cart as well.

Here's where I'm at now, needing a new pump and stand. And going to get, make something to cover/box the transformer.

Got the main power switch, one I can bypass the element, one I can bypass the alarm and one for the pump. All turn on with the main. Drain has a plug in case the valve gets bumped. And as you can see 2 valves so the pump is serviceable without draining the tank.

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i4Marc said:
This is cool. Been wanting to build something like this for 4 years.
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When it's all said an done, I'l have somewhere between 200-250 in it including the cart. It's been a fun project. If you can't tell, I like buttons and switches.. lol. I'm pushing the limits on how much crap I can shove in one of these little gray boxes. I'm still contemplating getting 2 - 3 way L ball valves and plumbing in a cooler and cooling fans. Which of course means another switch.... I have some nice PC fans already for it, and I'm thinking about a small fan for the control box since the relay is inside of it, but so far after letting it cycle for a couple hours doesn't get very hot in side. I was able to put a meat small thermometer probe in up through the hole where the element wires go in and it didn't get over 100* which was already the temp inside the shop.
 
Well it's pumping and pumping good. Powered by Holley. Which I think is cool because I'm a car guy as well. Need to tighten up the wiring but wanted to make sure it works before I did. Stoked. Hopefully get to use it this weekend.

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Ken H> said:
Looking good - that a Holley electric fuel pump? With that good temperature control you'll be able to do a first class quench! Congrats
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Thanks bro. Yep, Holley electric fuel pump. After coupon was $40. $15 pump from amazon was crap. Seems the flow in the tank is good. Let it pump for about an hour yesterday and you can see the oil circulating nice. Def a big jump in my quench ability from just a gallon paint can and single stove burner.
 
Cool stuff ! We dont use a pump whats potential to injest crud. Using whats basically a paint stirring blade & motor to circulate. The blade spins below the wire basket & uplifts the oil, but I dont think up or down would make a difference.
 
A little update on some of the discussion that was in this thread. I bought a cart to mount the tank and forge on, and I'm not impressed one bit. I've done 2 heat treats since the tank completion and now that I have the cars I do not like it, as the height it a lot lower that what I would like. So, since i am storing my forge right inside the door of the conex box, I'm going to build an articulating arm support that I can mount the forge on and swing out the door. I have a piece of 1/2" plate for the mount and through bolt it through the wall. Each long arm would be 30" and the short one 15" for a full reach of 75".

I just thought of this while typing. What I may do instead of mounting it to a plate on the wall it get a piece of 1 1/2 X 1 1/2 X1/4 square tube and run it from floor to ceiling. mount the plate to a piece of 2 X 2 X 1/4 so that I can adjust the height to where ever I want and not be stuck with it where ever I end up mounting it. i can use my small chain fall to raise and lower it by mounting a hook at the top of the column for the chain fall and some lock bolts to hold it at height.

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46C05480-7A94-47E3-994E-C57C5D9512FCL0001--IMG_1173.JPG.jpg Did some rummaging and found all the steel I need already in the shop. Just need some threaded rod to raise and lower it as needed if I use the forge inside or out as there is a 14" step down to outside. Guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow night.
 
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