Quenching/metallurgy question

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Aug 7, 2005
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Hi guys.

First, I'm not a knifemaker, I would like to, eventually, for fun, but I never made a knife myself. I've been studying metallurgy in college and I'm trying to apply what I learn to knifemaking. Thanks to share your experience.

I would like to know what would be the best for a knife:

- To quench the edge first so it will be harder than the rest of the blade.

- To quench it all, so you have the same % of martensite in all the blade.


I know that if you quench it all from austenisation, there will not be the same amount of martensite on the surface and in the core, but I also know there are ways to correct that.
 
Greetings,

Be careful, your question is very broad and open to interpretation, and there are several schools of thought here. you may be opening up a can of worms.

Could you define what you mean as "best for the knife" some people quench for maximum transformation for the entire piece and then temper to the desired hardness level. others quench the edge only, leaving a softer spine. If you quench the entire piece, quenching edge first will have little difference from quenching point first.

Also, what steel are you referring to? For the thickness used in knifes, (1/8" to 1/4") it is relatively easy to get the same % of martensite on the surface and the core, unless you are dealing with a very shallow hardening steel, or a quench medium that is too slow for the steel used. Much of the heat treating information is written for thicker parts with different cross sections.

All in all, I am glad to see you are taking an interest in metallurgy, and asking questions, hopefully you will find the answers you are looking for, perhaps someone else here may be able to shed more light on the subject.

Ken Nelson
 
Be careful, your question is very broad and open to interpretation, and there are several schools of thought here. you may be opening up a can of worms.

Thanks Ken.

I wasn'y trying to troll, I just want to learn.

I was a very general question. I understand "best for a knife" would depend if the use.

Different point of views would be a good thing. Why do you guys quench a way instead of another?

Since knifemaking is an art, it's right that people make it the way they want to make it.
 
Probably 95% of all knives are full quenched (most likely 99%) . After a full quench, some have the temper differentially drawn with the edge in water.
The simple answer to your question is that for The "KNIFE" the full quench is best (certainly the most reliably attainable structure of max Martensite). What the "MAKER" wants may well be another thing.
Stacy
 
Since you asked as a metallurgical question, I think one could say the full quench is better, since metallurgically it will result in a homogeneous structure that will provide the most strength, and if tempered enough the most toughness as well.

As for the amount of martensite from surface to core (as per Jominy, for example) this is dependant upon cross section and more profoundly on alloying. 1095 will produce fine pearlite in abundance if the cross section is over around 1/8" to 3/16” thick and it is quenched in slower mediums than water, however other alloys will form a very homogenous martensitic structure throughout, in even slower mediums.

When I metallograph other folks work the best thing they could hear me say is that their steel is boring to look at- solid fields of just tempered martensite is really boring to look at. If I tell them that I found their samples to be “very interesting” and that I spent a lot of time exploring them, they may need to really consider their heat treating procedures.
 
Martensite is beautiful not boring !!!....BTW Kevin , do you know anyone who marquenches then uses plates to make sure there is no warpage ???
 
I would like to know what would be the best for a knife:

- To quench the edge first so it will be harder than the rest of the blade.

- To quench it all, so you have the same % of martensite in all the blade.
.

The answer is found in understanding what use the knife will have?
many knives have vastly different things they are designed to do.
A fishing knife is asked to do things and bend in a way I would not want a pocket knife to do.

The only knife I make is based on the needs I have for a true working man's blade.
So to my way of thinking about what I should ask of my knife, the only way to go is to do the edge-only quench, or to fully quench the whole blade, but then draw back the spine.
I think it's a far better way to go to end up with a knife you can trust.

But on this note of a trust-worthy knife, I also believe that the biggest problem with most knives that we see fail in the field is that they just were too darn thin, or they were made of a type of steel that could not take a normal beating.

I was looking at some hunting knives at the sports store here in my home town and all the blades were so very thin to my eye.
Yes, cutting deer flesh does not need a real thick blade to do, but the trouble is that a hunting knife is also used for so very many other jobs too while in the field.
Cutting firewood, fixing on the car, cutting rubber, and splitting firewood too.
All such things are just part of the normal story of a hunting trip into the woods.


I have to use a knife all the time of my jobsite.
I have to cut some nasty things, some of them underwater.
And at such moments you dont want a blade in your hand that might have design flaw such as a snapping point to it. If I think that a blade has a chance of snapping on me due to it's H/T or it's thin design I would not allow it on my belt.
 
Listen to metallurgists... as this topic has never gotten further than misconception and ignorance in many circles. Some of the posts here are perfect examples of understanding of the material in question, and as such I have nothing else to add.
 
Listen to metallurgists...

The answer wasn't in my books :(

I wanted to also have the opinion of knifemakers, those with experience about the actual thing.

Even when I'll have my metallurgist degree, you guys will still have more quenching experience than I will.

I will probably know what's best in theory, but experience still is really important. That's why I asked here.
 
>>The answer wasn't in my books

Well, dang, I guess if they don't help, send them my way and I'll "dispose" of them for you :)

Personally, I like to get a complete conversion to martensite, then I know what the blade will be capable of. There are times that I will play with my quenches, like an edge quench, clay cover, or using a quenchant that is a little too slow to produce a natural hamon. Generally these are for aesthetic reasons, or when I am demonstrating for the public. I do not claim these are better, prettier perhaps, but if I didn't feel that they would make a decent blade, I would not do them at all. (if they wouldn't hold an edge, or were not strong enough)

Ken
 
The answer wasn't in my books :(

I wanted to also have the opinion of knifemakers, those with experience about the actual thing.

Even when I'll have my metallurgist degree, you guys will still have more quenching experience than I will.

I will probably know what's best in theory, but experience still is really important. That's why I asked here.

I think it's possible Purple was referring to a couple individuals that had already responded to your post, Kevin for one. :)
 
Well, dang, I guess if they don't help, send them my way and I'll "dispose" of them for you :)

I just never found the part where it says "for a knife, the best would be"

If someone knows a book called "Blades Metallurgy" or something similar, please tell me :P
 
I think it's possible Purple was referring to a couple individuals that had already responded to your post, Kevin for one. :)


Yup!

I hope I didn't come off sounding snotty, either... I just re-read my post and it could have sounded that way. It wasn't my intention.
Just as Mr. Caswell pointed out, the guys that really understand what's going on had responded.

There's a rather technical but very informative paper written by a man named Verhoeven that's floating around on the forums... that's a great starting place to find out what steel is and what it does, all with knifemaking as it's center. Unfortunately, it's one of the only documents for knifemaking like it. Many of the other explanations are rooted in myth or a poor understanding of the physics.
Feel free to PM me if you can't find the Verhoeven documents... worst case scenario, I'll burn it to a cd and send it to you!
 
I just never found the part where it says "for a knife, the best would be"
A while ago there was a guy here on the Blade Forums that talked about the creation of a facts sheet that would have all the common knife making steels and ways to Heat-treat them.

I never learned if he finished ...
 
Martensite is beautiful not boring !!!....BTW Kevin , do you know anyone who marquenches then uses plates to make sure there is no warpage ???

While this is indeed beautiful and what you want to see in blades:

martensite3.jpg


Whole pieces comprised of nothing but is boring to look at compared to this:

pearlite28.jpg


Which is very interesting, but also very ugly to have in your blade, which falls right in line with the thread topic, the stuff in the top photo is going to out-perform the stuff in the bottom in every category except unpredictability, and this happens to both be images of 1095, a steel that loves to give you the bottom stuff if you don’t really stay on top of it.

Mete, I don’t know of anybody who uses plates in conjunction with martempering, probably because of the total effectiveness of straightening metastable austenitic blades with gloved hands. I have always been dubious of using plates to keep steel, prone to warping, straight with plates, cooling air hardening steels for hardening they are very effective for. But if the steel wants to warp it is due to uneven internal stress/strain, simply holding it straight without applying force in the opposite direction has only resulted in it assuming its distortion as soon as the straightener is removed for me. I believe rather than holding steel straight the plates would lend a more even distribution of cooling down both sides and thus result in straighter blades, but I haven’t tried it, since my gloves are always sitting right there.

Cybrok mete is a metallurgist, I am not a metallurgist but I play one on T.V.;). If you haven’t got to the metallography portion of your schooling, it is really cool:D . Preparation is painfully boring but the viewing is worth it. If you can get the e-book by Verhoeven that has been recommended you will have perhaps the only book that touches on bladesmithing from metallurgical perspective.

The touchiness of this topic comes from the mass confusion in the field about these properties and how they really work. My guess to the origins of this is still just my opinion, but is backed by my talking to some folks who were around many years ago and observing the trends. It would appear that back when forged blades where the extreme minority in a stock removal world, some forgers decided to call upon the ancient and traditional means of forging as a selling point for knives. A very wise business strategy, considering that is how most blades were made until the industrial revolution, and appealing to tradition is a very good marketing angle when dealing with something that is handmade. Where they got into trouble is when that wasn’t good enough, it is natural that whenever a P.R. machine gets rolling the truth will often get stretched to the breaking point in constraining its momentum. All kinds of claims were then made as to the superiority of forged blades over stock removal. This is where those folks got themselves in a bind, since knives are meant to cut things and a stock removal knife will cut things just fine and with less chance for things to go wrong in the creation, so us bladesmiths needed come up with a way to top the stock removers, so when in doubt – just change the rules.

While stock removers were still focused on making knives that will cut things, bladesmiths decided, that instead of educating or correcting that percentage of folks who misuse and abuse their tools, they would cater to that mentality and changed the focus to prybars instead of cutting instruments. Even stranger, they did this with tests that most grinders with common sense would not make a knife to pass, tests that involved extreme ductility in ways that make things rather useless as a prybar:confused: .

The marketing worked beautifully! It was a masterstroke of P.R. that any modern political campaign would be in awe of. It wasn’t long before folks were intentionally doing all kinds of things to make a knife that bent like taffy, with resisting a bend or even cutting things as an afterthought. Even better, you had consumers abusing knives in all kinds of ridiculous ways that made the ground blade, designed for cutting, completely unreliable. As a marketing campaign you have to admire it.

Also before anybody takes umbrage or runs to defense of their favorite forger, they should get over themselves, since this trend got its start so long ago that no living person can realistically lay claim to the invention of the soft spine. We can appeal to historical things like Japanese swords, but we must do so while ignoring the subsequent development of controlled alloying, since those ancient techniques were in response to the inherent limitations of the materials of the time, as well as overlooking that swords are not knives.

Another book to get your hands on, if you can read German, is "Messerklingen und Stahl" by Roman Landes. Roman has an entire chapter devoted to how much real knife performance has been sacrificed in order to compensate for abuse.
 
Very cool pictures, Kevin! Especially the one of pearlite. I knew pearlite was called that because it looks like mother-of-pearl, but I never saw a photo that really looked like it. That one is great. It looks a lot like MOP. It's got all the colors and everything. Did you do that one yourself?
 
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