Quenching oil, Texaco Type A available

hi Laredo7mm, this is DaQo'tah

Im way too new to knife making, so I cant answer any of your questions..

But all I know is that I deeply desire to produce a 52100 blade that is dependable.

I intend to use the great knowledge found here at this website to achieve my goals.
I also intend to let the experts do all the heavy lifting (Let them do the testing and experiments) and build based on the results they come up with.

if the Master Bladesmiths say Texaco type "A" is important, (and Mr. Fowlers tests show that it clearly is)....then thats all I needed to know...LOL

so, if you do perform Different quenching tests, make sure for the sake of us new guys, that you carefull record everything,,so I can understand what you learned, and build on the results...
 
Can anyone tell me for sure if Texaco type A is:
A. Transmission oil.
B. Hydraulic oil.
C. Quenching oil.

From the phone calls that I have made, I'm being told that it is an old type of tranny fluid by some, and others are telling me that it is and old hydraulic oil. Both sources tell me that it is basically mineral oil with and additive or two. I plan on tracking some down if it kills me and it would really help if I knew where to look (tranny shops, heavy equipment shops, heat treating shops, etc).

Thanks,
Rick
 
OK, I just re-read the whole thread to see if I could find out some poop on Texaco type A. I found a link that Sweany posted and I had forgotten to check out.

First of all, Sorry Sweany! I checked out the link and compared that information to some other information that I found on the web concerning Chevron quenching oil 70. It seems, according to the published "Typical test data" that Chevron quenching oil 70 and Texaco Quenchtex C are the same oil. The test data matches up exactly. So, If Ed is using Texaco Quenchtex A, the Chevron 70 is going to give different results.

Here are the two links: http://216.239.53.100/search?q=cach...MWF-2250.pdf+texaco+quench+oil&hl=en&ie=UTF-8

http://library.cbest.chevron.com/lu...d879e36ae77b2cb788255f950023ba55?OpenDocument

Thoughts anyone?

Rick
 
Rick: thoughts? I am really glad I bought a drum of Texaco Type A. I will sell some for $10,000 a gallon but only if I can find more. Actually there has got to be some around. I wish you luck and would try from here, but I am told they don't want to work with it. I will try again.

When I tried to track it down, I was told it was heavy grade mineral oil with no additives. Maybe our friend Paul Boss could helo out, I see his name every now and then on the forms. Common Paul please help us out.
 
...Texaco A a mineral oil base? ...interesting. I have a whole bunch of Harley Davidson straight weight 60 that I used to use in my shovel. When researching oils I found that HD oil is mineral oil base, It is also, as oils go, very spare on the additive side (zinc and phosperous - no moly). I 've been thinking about running some quench tests with it.

Bob
 
Ed, At that price I can only afford 5 gallons... Does your price include shipping? :D Is your Texaco type A actually the Texaco Quenchtex A that Sweany mentioned in his post? Does it matter so much which oil I choose to use as much as being consistent with whichever one I end up with? I'm starting to feel a little obsessive about it. I guess it's because I'm getting so focused on my goals.

Rick
 
DaQo'tah, I figure that if any of our horses get sick, I'd have plenty of mineral oil to get things moving again;)
 
Looks like to me these oils are very similar quench hydraulic and transmission oils are all parrifinic based mineral oils.

The additives differ widely as in the texaco type A and the B and MM

the flash point is quite different.

Some of the hydraluic oils have a rust inhibitor added to them, rust is not a good thing in hydraluic systems.

Tranny fluid has a least the red dye and maybe some anti foaming agents in it dependeding on MFG.

Ed Mc Caffrey says he buys Vetinarian grade mineral oil, from a farm supply store.

I dunno about the effects of some of the additives to the blades and the blademaker, the MSDS was not as clear on what some of these additives were. Course they are not intended for quenching either.

Look for an oil with as few additives as possible if it is not a quenching oil. MY .02
 
That is what happened to some of my quenching oil, horses got into the grainery. I came home to find the hired hand was using it to drench the horses.
He will never do that again!

Richard Corbaley a bladesmith in North Fork California picked up a 55 gallon barrel last year. He will sell some, but can't ship it. His phone number, 209-332-9576 or 209-877-7020 (?) the (?) in in Angies notes on his card. This would indicate that it is still available.

Rick, you did not read the fine print - will sell only if I can get more. I guess I should check the level of my stock.
 
Originally posted by DaQo'tah Forge
Rick, what would you need 5 gallons of quenching oil for?....you are not drinking the stuff right?
,
Click to expand...

If you are doing a bunch of knives then you need volumn to keep the ambient temp of the quench where you want it to be.

If you quench one or two at a time no big deal.

A circulating pump or air stream in the oil helps to keep it stable.

A friend of mine used to heat treat batches of wrenches at a time. he said they used an air pipe in the bottom of the tank, with holes every so often to keep the oil stirred.
 
Hi sweany, If I find type A, I'm going to get as much as I can. So far It's been pretty hard to find and since I'm new to this sport, I don't want to have to re-learn my heat treating processes every time I run out of oil. Maybe it's not that big of a deal, but it's all unknown to me at this point. Thanks for the oil circulation tips!

Rick
 
I finally checked the Texaco Quenchtec that I have and its B and its to darn fast. Whats the difference between the A and B. Is it the viscosity? Ray
 
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