Quenching Oil

colu41

colu41

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Dec 24, 2014
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Has anyone ever heard of this, or used this for quenching? http://www.ebay.com/itm/TTC-100-Que...984491?hash=item339fd6c4ab:g:E0gAAOSwys5WWLws

I'm going to be using mainly 1095 & 1095/15n20 damascus. Just looking for a decent quench oil without having to spend $120+ on a 5 gallon pail of Parks.

And excuse my ignorance of quenching oils, but when spending that kind of money on oil, I've always been curious do they still have to be warmed to certain temps when quenching? Since building my PID oven, and using mainly stainless, I've only really worked with 1084 & and a little 15n20. Where canola oil in a crock pot worked perfectly fine.
 
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I've read about that one. Isn't that too slow for a proper 1095 heat treat though?
 
Never heard of that brand and they are light on rate specs. Would think buyer beware.

Parks Heatbath label says P50 should be used at room temperature. IIRC Kevin Cashen found optimal conversion temp between 100 - 105F with P50.

My guess is there are so many other sources of variation in most home heat treat setups that warm canola shouldn't be any giant bottleneck. It's plenty fast enough for 1095 in thin cross sections. Just change it out a few times a year and use enough volume to allow for good slicing agitation and enough depth to minimize flame up at quench.
 
"Where canola oil in a crock pot worked perfectly fine."

Thanks for that. Just did my first backyard heat treat today. Warmed the canola oil up on the stove and checked the temp with a kitchen thermometer; took it a bit higher than I wanted so it could cool down a bit as I heated the blade; then hoped for the best. Meanwhile there's an electric crock pot we haven't used in 6 months sitting up the back of a cupboard. Could have had it just sitting there...
 
colu41 said:
I've read about that one. Isn't that too slow for a proper 1095 heat treat though?
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I doubt it I've read people using it for W1 - If warming P50 is needed for ideal conversion I would say leaving the mcmaster at room temp would be good.

The 11 seconds has to do with a specific sized ball of nickel cooling to a specific temperature.

Personally I've had no visible warp on any of my O1 blades and good edge retention using canola so I'm not changing anything.
 
I,ve used the Mcmaster oil on 1095 and my hardest(not diamond) file skated.Don't know the exact rockwell,but I suspect it fully hardened.
 
Thanks guys. I'll have to experiment a bit with canola. If anything I'll check out McMaster Carr.
 
Quenchant temperature depends on the specific quenchant .When in doubt read the label !
For those who don't know if you don't have an oil specifically made for HT use something like Canola rather than things like motor oil as the motor oil has some nasty stuff in it !!
 
I have both Parks-50 and McMaster-Carr 11 second oil. My testing shows that I get 2-3 points more as quenched hardness on 1095, W1, & W2 when I use P-50. I use P-50 on 1095, W1, & W2 and use the 11 sec. oil on everything else. YMMV.
 
Darrin Sanders said:
I have both Parks-50 and McMaster-Carr 11 second oil. My testing shows that I get 2-3 points more as quenched hardness on 1095, W1, & W2 when I use P-50. I use P-50 on 1095, W1, & W2 and use the 11 sec. oil on everything else. YMMV.
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Interesting. So this 11 second oil from TruGrit would be fine for 1084 but not 1095? I'm just looking for a gallon size quenchant that I can use for the only 2 carbon steels I use. :) Call me lazy and cheap but, I don't have the room, or budget to start adding more equipment to the shop right now. Mainly looking to get rid of some stuff, and upgrade! lol.
 
I got 5 gallons of Parks 50 delivered to my door for about $120. The oil you linked to has very little info about it's speed, and keeps referring to cutting oils. I'm not sure what that is suppose to mean. To me, a gallon is not enough oil, so even if you can get away with 2 gallons ($50) and shipping ($30) you are up to $80 and you have half the oil that you would get with Parks, and it's quality/speed is a crap shoot. I'd spend the little bit extra and know what you are getting.
 
colu41 said:
Has anyone ever heard of this, or used this for quenching? http://www.ebay.com/itm/TTC-100-Que...984491?hash=item339fd6c4ab:g:E0gAAOSwys5WWLws Just looking for a decent quench oil without having to spend $120+ on a 5 gallon pail of Parks
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The oil you linked to is $25.39 per gallon - the same approximate unit price as Parks 50.

You can read the full specs of this oil by searching Travers Tool's main webpage: http://cdnll.travers.com/images/art/81-006-056_msds.pdf

You can presumably direct any additional questions about the oil to the manufacturer listed on the MSDS, but I agree that the lack of instructional information is a red flag.
 
colu41 said:
Interesting. So this 11 second oil from TruGrit would be fine for 1084 but not 1095? I'm just looking for a gallon size quenchant that I can use for the only 2 carbon steels I use. :) Call me lazy and cheap but, I don't have the room, or budget to start adding more equipment to the shop right now. Mainly looking to get rid of some stuff, and upgrade! lol.
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That is correct. You have like less than half a second to get under the pearlite nose with 1095. I believe you have a little longer with 1084, although I quench my 1084 in parks 50 as well. You can get an acceptable blade quenching 1084 or 1095 in canola, it just won't be optimum. After the quench, I get Rc66 on my 1095 quenched in parks50.

Now, another option, since you have a heat treat oven, is to use something like O1. With O1 you have around 9-10 seconds to beat the pearlite nose, so canola or the 11 sec quench oil is perfect for this. I use canola at 125 degrees to quench my O1 blades in and I get HRC 64-65 with them.

A final option might be find someone who wants a smaller amount of parks 50 and go in together with them and order it and split it up.


Adam
 
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J. Hoffman said:
I got 5 gallons of Parks 50 delivered to my door for about $120. The oil you linked to has very little info about it's speed, and keeps referring to cutting oils. I'm not sure what that is suppose to mean. To me, a gallon is not enough oil, so even if you can get away with 2 gallons ($50) and shipping ($30) you are up to $80 and you have half the oil that you would get with Parks, and it's quality/speed is a crap shoot. I'd spend the little bit extra and know what you are getting.
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J Hoffman, where are you getting the Parks from?
 
How are you guys heating up 5 gallons of Parks when you quench? Isnt the proper working temp around 100*?
 
I keep my parks in a large ammo style can. It is about 18"x 18" square. Not really an ammo can, but similar. I usually use the parks at room temperature. The canola I keep in a big crock pot as well.

-Adam
 
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