quenching point first or edge first?

L

loneronin

Joined
Oct 15, 2006
Messages
110
sometime I read to edge quench, sometime to point-first quench... which is the logic?

I presume:

long blade -> edge first
short blade -> point-first?

and if my thought is correct... when the short blade ends and the long blade starts?

I know... :jerkit:
 
I don't know if it really matters, if you are quenching the whole blade. I did notice much less droop warping, in 1095, when I started doing point first. I now use 01 almost exclusively, and I don't know how it would react in comparison if done edge down. For me, it is easier, and faster to get it into the oil, point first, and if you have distal taper in the blades, the thinner section goes in first. I am getting some side warp in some of my blades, and have thought about trying edge down with the 01 to see if it would stop this.
 
Either one ,edge or point. NEVER on the side -that will warp. Remember to agitate, edge to spine, if you don't have a pump.
 
It is highly depenent on the blade shape and cross section. Obviously a double edge blade must be quenched point down. Something in the shape of a Scottish Dirk will have a tendency to drop its point into the edge if quenched point down in oil, a similar cross section in a greater width may not have any problem point down. Edge down is fine but if one finds that the point drops with this method, spine down will overcome the issue. I recently read an author spouting some absolute rubbish about spine down quenches, but then I considered the type of quenchants he may use and cut him some slack.

When oil quenching (mostly I use Parks #50) I do all of my blades spine down and have enjoyed much success in full hardness with little distortion in either direction. In my salts I do everything point down but that is another matter. What I would prefer is when "experts" say it must be done one way or the other that people ask if they have sound explanations as to why they feel that way, that is not done often enough.
 
You might want to check that last paragraph... you railed on somebody for quenching spine down, and then said that you "do all of [your] blades spine down" (emphasis added)
 
Nope, paragraph is fine. I have encountered predictions of calamitous outcomes of spine down quenching with no sound explanations as to why, while I have found benefits in it with no basis for the concerns given. Edge down works too, but under other circumstances, I just like to have good reasons for either.
 
A thought just brought me a smile:)It is amazing at how literally many folks will take advice without considering all factors. In the past I have mentioned spine down to correct the point dropping in oil, only to hear people scoffing my advice later on because it messed with the clayed blade:rolleyes:, My reply- "Clay? When did I ever mention clay?":confused:

So I am picturing this morning any of those edge quenchers who will be cursing my lousy advice after rocking just the spine in 3/8" of oil and wondering why the edge won't harden:D

Whatever direction you go into the oil, get it under the surface and move or agitate it, if the cooling is continous and even you will be all right. :thumbup:
 
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