Question About A Subcom Titan

BluesStringer

BluesStringer

Joined
May 16, 2006
Messages
615
I posted some pics in the Pictures Thread of my Subcom Titan after I polished it. Here's one for reference:

SubcomKnife-1.jpg


I took it completely apart to do the polishing. Since reassembling it though, I have not been able to get the blade centered between the frame pieces. I've disassembled it and reassembled it several times. Checked the pillars to see if the shoulders are different heights from one side to the other, and haven't been able to discern such. Swapped the washers over on each side, and swapped them to the other side of the blade, and no matter what I do, the blade continues to rub against the non-clip side of the frame when closing.

I can't see any way that I bent anything while polishing. I used 2000 grit sandpaper first, laid flat with each frame piece laid flat on top of it and moved back and forth. I literally spent less than 5 minutes (maybe even less than 2 minutes) with the sandpaper.

The next step was Dico white rouge loaded on my leather strop, which is mounted on a flat piece of wood, and the same motions as the sandpaper were applied, keeping the pieces flat the entire time.

I finished it with a semi-chrome type of polish applied to a cloth and rubbed by hand. This is the only phase that could've conceivably bent anything, but really, all I was doing was using my forefinger to lightly buff it to a high luster. I really can't imagine how I could've applied enough force with my forefinger to bend anything out of tolerance.

So can anyone offer any advice to get this cool little knife back to opening and closing it without hearing a scraping sound? Is there a formula for reassembly that keeps everything in good alignment that I'm just missing? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Blues
 
Loosen all the screws. And force the blade to go the opposite way while closed. Then tighten all screws while still forcing the blade. Now slowly loosen the pivot till you get the desired tension. The blade should be centered.
 
Thanks for trying, but it didn't seem to work. It may have lessened the offset a bit, but it still rests against the non-clip side of the Ti handles.

It's not scratching the blade, so I guess I'll just live with it.

Thanks again.

Blues
 
My example is off center to the solid side - assumed to be the lockbar's side pressure. The sharpness - or lack thereof - was my initial problem. That just took time on the Sharpmaker files (Yep, it's 440C!). A couple of days in my pocket - with change and two keys - left the polished handle sides looking like they had been through the war. Repolished with Semichrome, easing the scratches, another day in the pocket and it looked even worse! It may actually be Ti, but it polishes like SS and galls like a soft aluminum. Definitely not a knife reeking of 'quality'. More of a novelty.

I have been reasonably happy with the fb PRC-made Boker Plus lines I have, but, if this is an example of their folders... I'll pass on future buys. The Solingen made folders are a hard act to follow!

Stainz
 
The non locking side holds up very well from my expierence. The locking side turns to crap with a polish on it. I ended up using a green scotchbrite pad to give it a satin/matte finish and it seems to hide scratches very well now.
As for the off center blade. If that didn't work I dunno what it is. It could be the washers or just the tolerences on the parts could be off.
 
Thanks for the info xmtgx. I appreciate you trying to help.

One of the washers does appear to have been pinched somewhere along the line, but it was like that when I took it apart, and I paid careful attention to how it came apart and put everything back exactly where it came from.

The hardest part is getting the flat shoulder on the pivot pin aligned with the key-way in the hole of the non-locking part of the frame. I think I got it there now, but there's no way I can think of to be sure. The non-locking side necessarily has to be the last part of the "sandwich" that gets assembled, and I don't think the pin even extends into the hole until you start tightening the pivot screw, and that tightening motion always tries to turn the pin so it's not aligned with the key-way. I guess I need to clamp everything down before I start turning any screws? Not sure how I'd do that without scratching the surface all up, and still maintain access to all the screw holes.

Oh well, I'm fairly handy with this kind of stuff. I'll either keep thinkin' on it and figure it out, or forget about it and just use the blade for neat pictures. LOL

Thanks again.

Blues
 
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