I have seen plenty of batonning with pocket knives. If that's all you have then it'd the best tool for the job at that moment. I would echo people's opinions thst spyderco probably isn't best for that situation. I've seen hinderer and zero tolerance used successfully..and a cold steel Finn wolf did well as well. They key is to find the right size wood to baton..dont get too big or nothing will work so well
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Question about batoning a Spyderco Police 4 Lightweight or VG-10 in general.
- Thread starter ceranoe
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2000
- Messages
- 3,805
This is my wilderness survival knife. I'm not batoning Scheiß.
Saws are very handy tools. If you have to split wood, you can saw half way through and them smack the stick on something hard and it will split. It's a very handy technique to have when things are damp and you need to get to the inner dry parts of the wood to get a fire going.
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- Joined
- Apr 2, 2011
- Messages
- 965
If this were the only knife on you during a trip outdoors, it would be safer to make a wedge with the knife. Start to baton the wood with the knife and then use the wedge to do the hard work. This way you can have a really light knife and still get the wood processed. VG 10 is not too brittle to be used this way.
most everyone here is on point, a police 4 is just the wrong tool... it would be much better used to make a wood wedge and use that instead...
BUT let's get to the technical side, since the OP was asking about vg10. It isn't very tough in the range of steels... high carbon & chrome generally means it gives up toughness for decent edge retention & decent rust resistance
our good
Larrin
has amalgamated a bunch of steel on the toughness vs hardness scale, it's a very good place to learn
taken from: https://knifesteelnerds.com/2021/03/25/cpm-magnacut/
notice that vg10 is like the lowest end of toughness... just a bit over 5ft-lbs
... this is exactly why survival types prefer to get a small fixed blade in 3v, or aeb-l or whatever is high on his toughness charts
personally, my 'survival' fixed blade is 14c28n - very tough, nearly aeb-l... which are among the 2 best 'stainless' steels for toughness
also note that 3v & z-tuff is highest in toughness, they give up the chrome (and rust resistance) and even some edge retention to get this toughness
heck, even plain old inexpensive 1075 carbon steel is a better choice than vg10
(a lot of condor & ontario machetes use it for this reason)
BUT let's get to the technical side, since the OP was asking about vg10. It isn't very tough in the range of steels... high carbon & chrome generally means it gives up toughness for decent edge retention & decent rust resistance
our good
Larrin
has amalgamated a bunch of steel on the toughness vs hardness scale, it's a very good place to learn
taken from: https://knifesteelnerds.com/2021/03/25/cpm-magnacut/
notice that vg10 is like the lowest end of toughness... just a bit over 5ft-lbs
... this is exactly why survival types prefer to get a small fixed blade in 3v, or aeb-l or whatever is high on his toughness charts
personally, my 'survival' fixed blade is 14c28n - very tough, nearly aeb-l... which are among the 2 best 'stainless' steels for toughness
also note that 3v & z-tuff is highest in toughness, they give up the chrome (and rust resistance) and even some edge retention to get this toughness
heck, even plain old inexpensive 1075 carbon steel is a better choice than vg10
(a lot of condor & ontario machetes use it for this reason)
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