Question about edge reprofiiling

Yeah, I think a convex edge would be too hard to do and maintain. I like easy, field sharpenable edges. Someone mentioned liking 25/25/50 and that is what the outdoor guides on the Worksharp are set up for. I just am not going to consider the '2 a "if I only had one" knife....more like a "one and a Mora".
I have a BK2 on my hip and a Mora Tri-Flex in my pack.
 
I have a BK2 on my hip and a Mora Tri-Flex in my pack.

All you need now is a Bahco Laplander and you'll have a near perfect set. My Holy Trinity of Bushcrafting is the BK9, Mora 511 in a M.Poff sheath, and the Bahco Laplander.

If you search ebay for "Kershaw Bahco 396" you'll find the same saw without the (really good) black blade coating for $19.99 shipped. Accept no substitute for Bahco. Becker/Bahco/Mora = Perfect kit. But if you can swing an extra $10, get the Laplander. The coating on it is worth it. I dont know what the heck it is...but it sure isn't the stuff the rubs off we're so familiar with.
 
Reprofiling means changing the angle or the grind of the blade. Most come with about a 20 degree angle on each side, = 40 degree inclusive. I find that 25 degrees is the ticket for me on my outdoor blades. A wider angle will be more durable & generally last longer, 25 & 30 degree are wide angle. A thinner angle, say 10-15 degree, will seem sharper but will have the possibility of chipping or denting or rolling over easier. Kitchen knives have thinner angles than outdoor knives---usually. Sometimes a new knife will arrive with a blade edge that is off center, then the low side has to be reprofiled so that the edges meet in the center---not off to one side or the other. Thats about the best i can describe it. Someone else may be able to help by posting pics.

This pretty sums it up for me also, on the bigger blades. I have limited knowledge on the subject and was just intuitively winging it with the Lansky. I know nothing about convexing other than what I've read lately. Thanks for the thread.
 
Yeah, I think a convex edge would be too hard to do and maintain. I like easy, field sharpenable edges. Someone mentioned liking 25/25/50 and that is what the outdoor guides on the Worksharp are set up for. I just am not going to consider the '2 a "if I only had one" knife....more like a "one and a Mora".

My understanding of convex edges is that they are easier to maintain in the field with a strop. Harder to put on yes, which is why most blade manufacturers don't do them much.

I've been playing with brab's BK2 from the torture test and it's got that convex edge which slices awesome, I did unfortunately hit concrete with it on one of the feathersticks I was making. flattened out about 1/2" of blade. guess what, It stropped right out in about 5 min . what blew me away was i didn't have to put it to my dmt hone.
 
My understanding of convex edges is that they are easier to maintain in the field with a strop. Harder to put on yes, which is why most blade manufacturers don't do them much.

I've been playing with brab's BK2 from the torture test and it's got that convex edge which slices awesome, I did unfortunately hit concrete with it on one of the feathersticks I was making. flattened out about 1/2" of blade. guess what, It stropped right out in about 5 min . what blew me away was i didn't have to put it to my dmt hone.

dude if you flattened out 1/2 of the edge making feather sticks, I'm coming right out and saying it..... THOSE ARE SOME SERIOUS FEATHER STICKS :D
 
That thing will featherstick all day, hitting my patio concrete slab tends to slow it down though.
 
That thing will featherstick all day, hitting my patio concrete slab tends to slow it down though.

next time use your thigh to help hold the wood, this way it wont get dull when it hits your leg:eek::)

I've been in the woods with OREGON before. he loves his feather sticks lol!

feather sticks make for good control practice, especially with a monster like the BK2, that knife takes a little getting use to as it is matchless in comparison to others :)
 
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