Question about final edge finishing/sharpening

[weo]

it only takes a few minutes to raise a burr on a course whet stone

What grit stone do you start with? My coarse wet stone is 800g.

 

[Cushing H.]

What grit stone do you start with? My coarse wet stone is 800g.

First is 1000, second is 6000. Again these are japanese waterstones, not whet stones. Not sure if the “grit” translates directly. If you have not used waterstones (???) they behave very differently from Arkansas stones. I love them . .

 

[weo]

Sorry all, I guess I should be using the term Japanese water stone instead of wet stone.
I was taught (40-ish years ago) the terms: oil stone, diamond stone and waterstone or wet stone. And was also taught that all of these are whetstones.
I'll correct in my previous posts.

 

[Alex Topfer]

“the primary edge on a blade is the sharp edge that can cut you. The primary edge initiates a cut. The secondary edge is the V-shape of the blade starting right behind the primary edge which dictates how easy or difficult it is to pass the blade through things. Cutting a string or thin paper is all about the primary edge, whereas trying to cut through acorn squash or thick shoe leather involves more of the secondary edge.”

Ok, if that's what we are using in this thread.

My original question was based on my thought that, on hunters/choppers/EDCs, establishing the primary bevel (referencing Alex's posted diagram above) on the grinder with a 400g belt would allow one to see grinding lines from the 400g belt on this primary bevel compared to the flat of the blade where I use 2000-5000g when hand sanding.

i think if you do at least 600 grit then strop it you won't see grind lines on the primary, it'll just look shiny. i suppose it depends how smooth you want the edge along it's length?

 

[weo]

i suppose it depends how smooth you want the edge along it's length?

The smoother, the sharper.

 

[scott kozub]

What grit stone do you start with? My coarse wet stone is 800g.

A few light passes on a 240 but I quickly move to 1000 where most of work is done. I do a quick strop to make sure it'll shave off 1000 but then jump to 4000 before the final strop. On my own knifes I'll go up to 8000 but I found with customers knifes 4000 is better as they aren't stopping the blades at all so a 4000 finish lasts longer for skinned vegetables. 8000 can loose that clean edge and slide on vegetables but still cut a finger like butter.

I use Norton wet stones. I'd like to get some better stones but with proper technique, you should be able to sharpen on anything.

I do need to get some rope and do some edge testing one day.

 

[Matt Rochester]

Not sure if this helps but this knife is hand sanded to 600 and the edge is finished with a 600 grit belt and buffed. If I understand correctly you are worried about scratches on the bevel from grinding the edge with a 400 grit belt? I have had problems with new 220 grit belts putting scratches on the bevel. I usually have to go back and sand the edge. Happens the most with a new belt and steep edge angle(15° or less per side). A worn belt helps but takes longer and you have to worry about heat buildup also.

 

[weo]

Thanks for all the suggestions. They say a picture is worth 1000 words, so perhaps I should have done this in my original post/question. Here's what I am/was concerned about:

With the hatching representing grind lines/scratches on the 'secondary' bevel (using Alex's image above).

But, like I said earlier, I think I'm being a bit too anal.

 

[weo]

OY!!! (insert face-palm emogee here)

Sorry all, I need to apologize again.

As I'm re-reading this thread, I was actually using Harbeer's definition this whole time.

I still appreciate all the posts.

(Moderators: If I need to delete this thread to prevent further confusion in the future, let me know....Lord knows nobody needs to follow my confusing path)