Question About Making a Liner Lock Folding Knife

T

Tanner Frisby

Joined
May 8, 2011
Messages
14
Hello!
I have a question about making a liner lock folding knife. Does the frame have to be made out of titanium? If not, what else can be used. If so, where is the best place to buy titanium and at what thickness?
Thanks,
Tanner Frisby
 
Hi Tanner, Short answer, no.

I believe the reason many use ti for the lock side liner is it's strength, rigidity, and the fact it can be bent to hold its shape and spring action. There are also a LOT of finish options available when using Ti too :thumbup:
In regards to what thickness is best ? Ask 10 makers and get 10 different answers ;)

I've used thickness' from .045 - ~ .060.

If you're going to make a frame lock, then thickness' as high as .125 or more might be appropriate. Many makers will reduce that heavy liner thickness in the lock bar area by milling or grinding, just to make it easier to open and close.

I've seen "liner lock" frames made from many different metals.
- 416 stainless, where the lockbar is bent to position, then hardened and tempered.
- 416 that hasn't been hardened and tempered.
- 17-4 PH stainless
- Spring steel lockbars that are inset into G10 or micarta integral handle/liners.
- I even have an Old Timer Trapper Style single blade folder that uses brass for the lock bar.
There are many, many appropriate material options to choose from ;)

Chuck and Jessica Bybee at Alpha Knife Supply http://www.alphaknifesupply.com/ have a GREAT selection of darn near everything you'll need :)


:cool:
 
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David is spot on,also using Ti your folder will be alot lighter.
Chuck at Alpha is the best for Ti,G10 and all the parts you will need.
Stan
 
One other thing about ti is that it's "sticky" and doesn't slide off the bevel and unlock easily. I've done a couple earlier ones with bandsaw blade locks and they got pretty slick pretty quick. I like the ti for the added safety factor.
 
I know it's an old topic but I had two questions about this topic.
one-is is the titanium heat treated for the liner?
and two-what would you say the safety of a locking liner style lock is off other styles?
Thanks
CH
 
No heat treating is usually done. Open the blade and let the lock engage as it should; turn the knife upside down and give the blade a rap on the edge of a table. The lock should have stayed engaged and the blade should still be locked open. Frank
 
chknifemaker said:
I know it's an old topic but I had two questions about this topic.
one-is is the titanium heat treated for the liner?
and two-what would you say the safety of a locking liner style lock is off other styles?
Thanks
CH
Click to expand...

Wow - Time Warp ! ;) Frank is correct in that knifemakers who make Mike Walker's liner-lock style knives usually don't heat treat the lock face. However, there are some who do.
Another "treatment" that has become popular is carbidizing the lock face, to address the sticky issue that Will mentioned.
In regards to the safety compared to other locking type folders ?? That's a relative question in that a poorly made lockback will be more apt to fail than a well made liner-lock, frame lock, etc. and vice versa. Whatever type knife you're making, the more you make, the better you get.
I believe it was Don Hanson who said .............. ah, about 10+ yrs ago now?? (time fly's), that it's the first couple hundred that are the toughest :thumbup:
You'll learn something new from every single knife you make - bar none.


:cool:
 
If you don't mind a piggy back question...

Will flame anodizing negatively impact the integrity of 4AL6V in regards to the lock bar?
 
Strigamort said:
If you don't mind a piggy back question...

Will flame anodizing negatively impact the integrity of 4AL6V in regards to the lock bar?
Click to expand...

I'm not familiar with the Ti alloy 4AL6V, did you by any chance mean 6AL4V ? I flip-flop stuff like that all the time, so if that's the case - I understand completely ;)

In regards to flame coloring negatively impacting the integrity ? That's a question some of the more well versed metallurgists on our board may be able to answer. Sorry - I can't help.
I do however know that flame coloring is a common practice among knifemakers and jewelers.
Any coloring of 6AL4V Ti that I've done has been done using the Anodic Bath anodizing method.

If you're interested in a good read regarding Coloring Ti -Studio Preparation and Coloring of Titanium- by William A. Seeley is an excellent source for info. It's available through Reactive Metals Studio.
http://www.reactivemetals.com/http___www.reactivemetals.com/Home.html

A product called Multi-Etch (also available through Reactive Metals) used as a pre-anodizing etch will result in brilliant colors compared to an acetone > soap and water cleaning.





- Sic semper tyrannis - III%
 
Yes, I meant that the other way around. :)

I've seen the multi etch used, but, unfortunately, I don't plan on anodizing enough ti to justify a jug. In fact the only electro-ano that I plan to do will be "ghetto" 9v battery stuff. A knifemaker friend sent me some CP ti to make myself a ring from since I react to silver and other metals. Should be fun but I'm still not sure how to go about it since the plates are fairly thin.

Thanks for the link. I love to read and learn. :)
 
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