Question about Master Hunter Durability

Allan DeGroot said:
I own a SM#-Master Hunter and though it is my favorite hunting knife that bothers me about it is it is too large and thick for some tasks, but that is probably why I generally carry several other knives in addition a Cold Steel Pendleton Mini (3V) And also a Benchmade Steep Country Hunter (S30V) and in my small Daypack in addition to wire ties to attack tags and Several pairs of Nitrile Gloves and a few folded Jumbo ZipLock bags(Useful for Heart & Liver) is where my (SK5) Recon Tanto lives, which is there to be "abused" if Necissary, it was only $37 on sale when I bought it new, so IF I'm going to be "Batoning" a knife better a $37 Knife than a $135 Knife!

And besides O usually have a Hatchet or Tomahawk, so Why The Hell would I baton any of my knives?
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You and I are in very different circumstances lol, you certainly do not seem to need something to baton. The deal you got on the RT is nuts. If you don't mind me asking, why do you carry the Master Hunter and Steep Country Hunter? They are, in essence, the same knife from different companies. Does one do something the other can't? I get the mini for small game for sure.
 
I'm going to ask the dumbest question on BF, why on earth does a piece of wood ever need to be batonned to use in an open fire. I understand splitting wood to fit in a wood stove, I am probs one of the few guys left that grew up when/where wood stoves were the only option but a campfire??
 
Sometimes it’s tough to get a fire started with wet twigs and grass.

By splitting wood to get to the core fibers, you can get small pieces of dried wood that will ignite easier. You can also use one of the small splits to feather.

I also like to make split wood pieces about the same thickness. This means the wood all burns closer to the same rate, and your coals will be ready at the same time, creating more even heat for cooking.
 
MolokaiRider said:
Sometimes it’s tough to get a fire started with wet twigs and grass.

By splitting wood to get to the core fibers, you can get small pieces of dried wood that will ignite easier. You can also use one of the small splits to feather.

I also like to make split wood pieces about the same thickness. This means the wood all burns closer to the same rate, and your coals will be ready at the same time, creating more even heat for cooking.
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So how do you get the wood cut into short pieces to baton?
 
Houlahound said:
I'm going to ask the dumbest question on BF, why on earth does a piece of wood ever need to be batonned to use in an open fire. I understand splitting wood to fit in a wood stove, I am probs one of the few guys left that grew up when/where wood stoves were the only option but a campfire??
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I find you can get a fire hotter with smaller pieces, at least initially. Then once you get a fire going the big pieces can go on and burn hot and long. You probably have more experience than anyone else on this thread combined if you grew up with a wood stove though lol. I also use a Bahco laplander for the backwoods, or if car camping I just buy it lol. I'm lazy sometimes. When I car camp I bring an axe for splitting though. Only time I baton then is to make really small kindling when chopping an axe would be dangerous, given the small size of the wood.
 
IaccidentlyCutmyThumb said:
I find you can get a fire hotter with smaller pieces, at least initially. Then once you get a fire going the big pieces can go on and burn hot and long. You probably have more experience than anyone else on this thread combined if you grew up with a wood stove though lol. I also use a Bahco laplander for the backwoods, or if car camping I just buy it lol. I'm lazy sometimes. When I car camp I bring an axe for splitting though. Only time I baton then is to make really small kindling when chopping an axe would be dangerous, given the small size of the wood.
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Gotcha, I just figured where there are lots of logs to baton there are also many more twigs and sticks available.

In the case of wet wood I have always got by a ith using some toilet paper or for extreme wet conditions which I avoid now I would carry BBQ fire starters that are only a few grams but we'll worth the weight. Also these days I eat high calorie energy bars and dried meat and fruit for shorter overnight trips and never have to cook anything.

Lighting open fires in the bush these days is becoming problematic so the only time I light a fire is in a base camp near a vehicle where I will have fuel, a camp kitchen, axe, chainsaw, shovel....etc
 
Houlahound said:
Gotcha, I just figured where there are lots of logs to baton there are also many more twigs and sticks available.

In the case of wet wood I have always got by a ith using some toilet paper or for extreme wet conditions which I avoid now I would carry BBQ fire starters that are only a few grams but we'll worth the weight. Also these days I eat high calorie energy bars and dried meat and fruit for shorter overnight trips and never have to cook anything.

Lighting open fires in the bush these days is becoming problematic so the only time I light a fire is in a base camp near a vehicle where I will have fuel, a camp kitchen, axe, chainsaw, shovel....etc
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Yup, I only start fires now if I have a large enough pot of water nearby to put it entirely out. My province had a lot of fires over the last few years in the drier areas, never wanted to contribute to that. Good idea on the BBQ starters, I just looked and they're much cheaper than the survival ones.
 
IaccidentlyCutmyThumb said:
You and I are in very different circumstances lol, you certainly do not seem to need something to baton. The deal you got on the RT is nuts. If you don't mind me asking, why do you carry the Master Hunter and Steep Country Hunter? They are, in essence, the same knife from different companies. Does one do something the other can't? I get the mini for small game for sure.
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The "Steep country Hunter" Is probably redundant as it spits the difference in size between the CS-MH and the Pendleton-Mini, but I still have not decided on which two out of three are my favorite, as a fellow "Knife guy" you should understand trying to find "the perfect tool" for any job or situation...
 
Allan DeGroot said:
The "Steep country Hunter" Is probably redundant as it spits the difference in size between the CS-MH and the Pendleton-Mini, but I still have not decided on which two out of three are my favorite, as a fellow "Knife guy" you should understand trying to find "the perfect tool" for any job or situation...
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yeah goofing around and figuring that stuff out is the most fun part of gear testing
 
I will add that the most unpleasant part of field dressing a deer ( Tying off and Separating the anus) is a lot easier
with the Pendleton (Smaller narrower bladed knife) but splitting the Pelvis is easier with a heavy knife or hatchet and the
Master Hunter is a HEAVY BLADED knife to be sure!

The Steep country Hunter is most definately NOT!
 
Bmurray said:
the master hunter is downright tough. A very lightweight knife for it's size. IMO one of the best production models on the market. I love my 3v version. Even for it's thickness, mine cuts like a razor

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Good to know. I keep coming back to this little knife as a product I'd love to check out.
 
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