Question about my Buck

I'll start by saying I don't recommend storing knives in their sheaths, but here's a 110 that I bought in 1974 or 75. When it wasn't being used, it spent all of its time in the sheath. It had some heavy verdigris that I cleaned off with one of the plastic scrubby thingies my wife used to wash pots & pans, but no pitting.
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I don't know. Just recently, I bought 5 Vanguards from a guy. They all were stored in their sheaths. The two n/s ones needed no work. The 3 brass ones had the green and dark oxidation on them. Same with the 110s I recently recieved.
I know. I've seen folks argue against it. ive proven it with pics in the past on this forum.
 
I know. I've seen folks argue against it. ive proven it with pics in the past on this forum.
I suppose it depends on the conditions in which they are stored. I can only say what I see in my collection. Actual results may vary. 😀
 
There are a variety of methods for tanning/processing leather. Some will corrode metal, some won't. Chrome and chemical tanning will corrode, organic methods like vegetable tanning won't. Perhaps Buck has used leather processed with different tanning methods for their sheaths from one batch to another, or at different times depending on things like price and/or availability. That could explain why some Buck sheaths cause corrosion and some don't.
 
There are a variety of methods for tanning/processing leather. Some will corrode metal, some won't. Chrome and chemical tanning will corrode, organic methods like vegetable tanning won't. Perhaps Buck has used leather processed with different tanning methods for their sheaths from one batch to another, or at different times depending on things like price and/or availability. That could explain why some Buck sheaths cause corrosion and some don't.
I think you are on to something. Because if I say I never saw the oxidation on my n/s bolsters like I have on my brass bolsters, and I have multiple dozens of examples, and other reputable sources are saying they have, then there must be some unknown variables at play.

I bought 4 brass 113s recently and all of them had corrosion. While most of the time, the oxidation will polish off by hand, these had some spots that had black corrosion. When I polished that off, the bolsters were pitted underneath. I sent them to the SPA.
 
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Nice knife.
The thing about elk custom shop knives is, you know what the elk looks like.
Whereas one you would order, you really don't know what your gonna get.

So they can hold their value.
Especially a nice one!

I've often passed on purchasing an elk knife because I can't see the product before buying it.
Because I've purchased some that I'm not thrilled with...🎃
 
Now... get yourself a can of Renaissance wax. I've been using that for many years, and in my experience it really slows down the oxidation (patina) of brass. It also will enhance the look of stag by accentuating the bark, while protecting it too.

These guys were waxed (from tip to pommel) almost a year ago after polishing the brass with Fitz, they are just starting to show some signs slight darkening).

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Now... get yourself a can of Renaissance wax. I've been using that for many years, and in my experience is it really slows down the oxidation (patina) of brass. It also will enhance the look of stag by accentuating the bark, while protecting it too.

These guys were waxed (from tip to pommel) almost a year ago after polishing the brass with Fitz, they are just starting to show some signs slight darkening).

View attachment 2703340
I'll have to give the Renaissance wax a try on my brass Bucks. I've never been one for the look and smell of patina on brass or copper. I'm constantly Flitzing my brass 112's, 110's and Vanguard.

Probably stems back to a job I had at a hotel back when I was a kid. We had to keep all of the brass shiny in the lobby to impress the tourists.

Even now days, when I see tarnished brass fixtures in public buildings or businesses, I think, "someone needs to get some Brasso".
 
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