Question about Ricasso's

J

jtwodogs

Joined
Feb 1, 2009
Messages
421
For all intended purposes I will be talking about a flat grind.
Do you cut yours with a belt? Cause my belt cut ricasso looks like crap.
Do you cut yours with a file? And if so, do you cut before you start the flat grind or after?
 
Do you mean the plunge lines? Or are you referring to the ricasso itself...the flat area between the bevel and handle? I assume you mean the plunge lines...as they can be difficult to do cleanly. Most knifemakers who have grinders do use the belts to cut the plunge lines, but may come back with a file/sandpaper to clean them up. Myself, having no grinder to do that properly, I use files to cut the bevels. And in doing so, I start with the edge, filing at a 45 degree angle till I reach my scribe lines. Then I do the plunge lines. Sometimes I will get the plunge completely done before moving on down the blade to cut the rest of the bevel, but sometimes I shape the plunge as I go along. I hope that helps answer your question. If you are talking about the ricasso, and getting it flat and "square", for me that is done before cutting bevels. I get the whole blank as flat and square as I can before.
 
Yes, that helps, sorry for the misunderstanding. I meant the plunge line between the ricasso and the blade.
 
A file guide helps in doing this whether you are doing it with files or on a belt machine. Many makers, even using a belt machine, will make the beginning cuts of the plunge at the base of the choil, using a sharp file with a safe edge.
 
Hello fellow Eastern Kentuckian, I have had success using a chain saw file and doing as Samuraistuart. I also use an improvised/disposable file guide to keep things even. I have used two u-bolt plates with nuts and bolts. Altogether cost less than $3. Tip - find bolts with exactly the same diameter of the cut outs in the plates and it will be easier to keep both sides straight. I have also super glued the plates to the knife. That worked fine too. At some point in the future I will buy or make a hardened steel guide but for now other things have a higher priority. Namely the rest of the parts for my 2x72, drill press, HT oven, toaster oven (lol), and so on.

I should disclose that I have very little experience. Makers like Mr. Rowe above have years upon years of experience and I make this disclosure so you may weigh such advise accordingly. (My plunge lines have turned out pretty good so far, until I massacre them with my ever speedy 4x36 with a tracking problem.)
 
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a good file guide like the one from bruce bump or riverside machine arent cheap, but worth every penny
 
Thanks Cory, I have one that I made up, but it's of soft metal. Just was not sure, it looked like some were being cut with the belt.
 
I do mine with the belt. I have a file guide from Bruce with a carbide face. Belts dont hurt it at all. Great for squaring up the plunge as well as the shoulders on hidden tangs
 
Generally they are performed with the belt as you are grinding. Like anything else, an even line here is a matter of practice, practice, practice!
 
I've done them with belts and with files. I find it easier to get consistent results with files, but that's in part due to the known problems with my home built grinder. Some day I'll make or buy a proper grinder. Until then I do as you described... start with the belts, and clean up with files.
 
chain saw file and file guide.
File only app. 2/3 as high as you want the bevel to go
 
tryppyr said:
I've done them with belts and with files. I find it easier to get consistent results with files, but that's in part due to the known problems with my home built grinder. Some day I'll make or buy a proper grinder. Until then I do as you described... start with the belts, and clean up with files.
Click to expand...

Thanks tryppyr, I think that may part of my problem, my belt grinder not the best, it's a craftsman and the belt seems to jump around a little. I appreciate your advice I may continue to do it the way you were talking about, and just practice some more.
 
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