question about steel prices - specifically 5160

Roger ToolandDie doesn't have 5160, these guys are finding it at Admiral or asuming that's what truck springs are. If I had a torch I'd cut up the big spring I have, and have a go at pounding out a blade on my little anvil one Friday afternoon. Well maybe some day, eh?

For now I'm gonna stick with my happy O1 from ToolandDie, which I'm finally dialing in a little. But all Don's talk about 5160 has me interested too.
 
ddavelarsen said:
Roger ToolandDie doesn't have 5160, these guys are finding it at Admiral or asuming that's what truck springs are. If I had a torch I'd cut up the big spring I have, and have a go at pounding out a blade on my little anvil one Friday afternoon. Well maybe some day, eh?

For now I'm gonna stick with my happy O1 from ToolandDie, which I'm finally dialing in a little. But all Don's talk about 5160 has me interested too.
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Dave, I got 1/4" x 1 1/4" 5160 from Admiral, $90.00 shipped for 21 feet. It is awesome steel from the knives I've made out of it. I making by way of stock removal and they cut like a champ. :D
Scott
 
Price of 5160. iIt's the chromium.
About 20 years ago there was jump in steel prices also. Anything with chrome in it went a little higher than a simple carbon steel.
Probably the same today
 
from my measurements, if i can get them all flattened out right i got 50ft of 2 1/2" wide 1/4" thick 5160 out of the set i boiught for 100$, plus two 31" long bottom springs that taper from the center at 7/8" thick down to 1/4" on eacxh side. given that its really exciting to have so much steel to work with (still beginning, am quite happy to have cheap steel to work with), im moist thrilled by the 7/8" sections....


wich brings me to another question - when grinding out ablade form the bottom springs, the entire thing tapers to a fat piont (if i were to cut them in half... stilll dont know if i wanna try a blade leaving the center hole in it or not). were i to put a handle on it, would it be better to taper the handle material so it flaires out, so that on the portion that is 1/2" thick, the handle material would be 1/16", and at the pommel where its 1/4" thick, the handle material would be 1/4" thick;

or should i grindthe tang down so that its a constant 1/4, and have the blade radius out into a sort of integral bolster (though the blade and bolster wouldnt change thickness at all)

kinda hard to explain...
 
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