I have no horizontal blade play at all. I also have no lock rock... The knife locks up rock solid. My problem is when folding or unfolding the knife I have a vertical blade play almost like a dead spot that prob last about 1/32 of an inch. Once I get past that the blade feels smooth and tight but the initial movement is very loose. It does not happen in one particular area just when I initially move the blade. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. This is my first smf and while for the most part I am happy this is driving me nuts.
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Question about Strider smf blade play
- Thread starter y19mike77
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- Sep 17, 2012
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Make sure all the handle screws are nice and tight. Something similar happens to my small Insingo and it seems that either a loose pivot or loose stop pin screw is the culprit.
Hope that helps.
Hope that helps.
I have tighten all screws... I am hesitant to take it apart but I'm thinking I might have to. The pivot screws seams tight but am a wood worker so very possible dust etc might be part of the problem. I have blown it out with compressed air and sprayed it with a silicone based lube. Any suggestions if taking it apart is my only option?
Thanx again
Thanx again
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When you say the last 1/32 of an inch, do you mean the very last portion of the ark when opening and the very first portion of the ark when closing?
If so, that is the portion of the ark in which the blade tang is no longer in contact with the detent ball. It's only contacting the last bit of TI at the end and wont feel as snug.
That's how it goes for my Sebenza, I'm just assuming it may work the same for other TI frame locks.
If so, that is the portion of the ark in which the blade tang is no longer in contact with the detent ball. It's only contacting the last bit of TI at the end and wont feel as snug.
That's how it goes for my Sebenza, I'm just assuming it may work the same for other TI frame locks.
If I open the blade half way and stop.... Then grab the handle with one hand and blade with the other and move it up and down there is what I would call a dead spot. The bladed will freely move about 1/32 of an inch regardless of the position of the knife. Sorry I don't know a better way to explain it lol.
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If I'm understanding your description, it sounds like there is free play while the blade is between open and closed where the pressure required to move the blade is decreased. If this is what you mean, it may be due to a smooth spot in the path of the detent ball on the blade surface. It's basically not an issue as far as I would say. If your lockup is tight and there is no lock slip, the knife is functioning as designed. Tightening the pivot will probably make this less pronounced.
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Initially that's what I thought he meant, but his description wasn't clear to me. I have a couple knives with this issue. If the detent is strong enough, I don't think it poses much of a problem. Unfortunately there is nothing that can really be done to fix it except send it back to the manufacturer if it really bothers you
Ajack60
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If the knife is new, it's better to have the Strider take down tool. They use Loctite. Take the knife apart, clean all the parts and re lube lightly.
Even though you have sprayed it with a lube, it may have not penetrated enough. Most company's don't use very much lube at all.
It will make a difference once it has a fresh lube job.
It's hard to tell how much you've tightened the pivot with it having Loctite. After you've cleaned the Loctite off, you can have a better sense of adjusting the pivot.
You can also use Teflon tape in place of Loctite.
Even though you have sprayed it with a lube, it may have not penetrated enough. Most company's don't use very much lube at all.
It will make a difference once it has a fresh lube job.
It's hard to tell how much you've tightened the pivot with it having Loctite. After you've cleaned the Loctite off, you can have a better sense of adjusting the pivot.
You can also use Teflon tape in place of Loctite.
Leftytwogunz
Gold Member
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Don't be hesitant to take it apart, as long as you have the proper tools. Make sure to keep the spanner tightly pressed against the bolt, as you turn the allen key or it will mar the outside of your pivot and make it look bad. I take all of mine apart, clean off the gunk and factory grease, and then lube, locktight and tighten them to my liking. You will probably be more happy with it that way.
I know the issue that you are talking about, there is a consistent tension or amount of resistance during the entire opening or closing except for at one very small portion that seems to have no tension there. I have no idea what it is, or what causes it. I remember that on one of my lego SNG's once, it was right at the beginning of opening it. The good thing is that it did not affect the function.
Try a clean and lube before sending it in. Latest word is that it could take a couple months to get back, and they are terrible on the communications front.
Best of luck.
I know the issue that you are talking about, there is a consistent tension or amount of resistance during the entire opening or closing except for at one very small portion that seems to have no tension there. I have no idea what it is, or what causes it. I remember that on one of my lego SNG's once, it was right at the beginning of opening it. The good thing is that it did not affect the function.
Try a clean and lube before sending it in. Latest word is that it could take a couple months to get back, and they are terrible on the communications front.
Best of luck.
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Sounds like the pivot hole in the blade is larger than the pivot pin. I don't believe it is an issue. It is not completely ideal, but the triangulation achieved when locking the blade will still result in a sturdy, play free, lockup. The only negate outcome is that the actual locked contact between the pivot pin and the blade will be a smaller surface area.