Question about Tantos & Others w/Matching Wooden Sheaths

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This question is for makers who make knives like traditional Tantos and others that would have a matching wooden sheath.

I am cutting up some larger pieces of wood and wanted to cut some that would work for knives with a matching wooden sheath. I have no idea what dimensions I should be cutting the wood.

Any input is welcomed and appreciated.
Thanks, Mark
 
i find it easiest to leave up to 1/8" wall thickness for slim sheaths, but of course larger dimmensions could be used.

i like to match the interior to the blade as closely as possible, leaving clearance for a lining material if one is to be used.

my experience is in making 3-4 piece and 2 piece sheaths.
 
My main question would be how long and how wide of pieces should I cut and keep in stock so makers could get a handle and sheath from one single piece.

Example, would 12 inches long by 2 inches wide and 1 and 1/4 inches thick work for a tanto?
 
I like 2 X 2 X ??. You have a lot more freedom of design with more curve potential for not just sheath and handle but also things like long ax handles.
 
I cut the slabs 1X3X16-24". I inlay the blade and then separate the handle portion from the sheath. That way all grain and pattern flows properly.
 
bladsmth said:
I cut the slabs 1X3X16-24". I inlay the blade and then separate the handle portion from the sheath. That way all grain and pattern flows properly.
Click to expand...

At the risk of turning this into a 'How To' thread...how do you shape the inside of the sheath portion? Cut the sheath in half long ways? there should be a tutorial for these types of traditional tantos.
 
I think I posted one a while back. I'll check tomorrow, and post a new thread on the "How To".
 
Emphasiski said:
At the risk of turning this into a 'How To' thread...how do you shape the inside of the sheath portion? Cut the sheath in half long ways? there should be a tutorial for these types of traditional tantos.
Click to expand...

in the two piece sheath, you have two matched pieces, and trace the profile of the blade out, then gouge, chesel or burn out either the full thickness [plus clearance] of the blade from one piece, or half the thickness from each. they are fitted together so that the blade fits in between them, and glued up.

for a three or 4 piece, you have two pieces at least the maximum thickness of the wall, and 1 or two pieces the thickness of the blade, with the profile of the blade cut out. these are assembled so the middle piece is lined up properly for the blade to fit in and glued up.

you can alternately drill/slot out the shape of the blade from a solid piece, but this is an enourmous pain.

when done, you shave, sand, rout the sheath to final shape and dimmensions, keeping mindfull of how thick your wall was,
 
Mark, I'd hold off on cutting stuff like that until you get an actual request for it. Make it known you have stock large enough and are willing to do the cutting.... but I wouldn't bother trying to keep something like that in inventory.

It's a pretty specialized thing, and not something a lot of guys take on. The few who do are going to be very particular about the wood and the orientation of the cutting.

I think you'd be better off to have a half dozen (or however many) bowie sized blocks cut from the same stock that will readily sell to a much broader audience.

But I'm no expert either. :p :)
 
for those who can't readily resaw precisely, i would say 1 1/4 x 2 x 12 would be great for matching, if you could cut that down to 5 and 7" length, then resaw the 7" piece to 2 x 5/8", so it's still well matched, and allows for a 2 piece saya and a 1 piece tsuka. that would still fig a great many knives without an excessive amount of waste.

i like nick's advice, but then i don't buy a lot of figured wood myself.
 
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