Question about wood blocks

Fletch Helical

Fletch Helical

Joined
Sep 29, 2009
Messages
1,614
Actually this is more of a 2 part question and I think I know the answers but wanted to check here first....I have some blocks of wood I'm planning to get stabilized.

Question 1. There shouldn't be any reason why I cant take those blocks and cut them in half or whatever is needed to make scales out of them right?

Question 2. If I'm planning on making some scales with them is it better to cut them first then send them out or leave them as blocks and cut what I need as I go.
 
First, make sure stey're dry enough to stabilize.

Pourous wood blocks can be stabilized and later
cut into scales without a problem.

Very dense woods may not allow complete panetration, so
IF youre goung to stabilize them......consider cutting into
scales first.

Oily woods like rosewood and cocobolo are generally best
not stabilized.
 
If you have the wood stabilized as blocks you have the option to use for full or hidden tang knives. Just split the block into scales on your bandsaw when you are ready to use them. A block is less likely to be damaged if it gets knocked onto the floor and stepped on than scales would be.

When stabilizing the wood there is less chance of waste if in the form of blocks instead of scales. The reason for that is after the wood comes out of the vacuum/pressure tank it is heat cured. I do mine at 250f for 3 to 4 hours in a confection oven.

A block is a lot less likely to warp during the heat cure. I am not saying stabilizing in the form of scales is bad because they would absorb the solution faster. They will just have a bigger chance of warping.

Some woods are more likely to move in heat cure than others. If you talk to Mike at WSSI he will tell you that if you are sending scales to be stabilized make sure they are at least 1/2 inch thick. That gives you the room to sand them flat again and still retain about 3/8 inch thickness if they move a little in heat cure.
 
I never never cut wood until it is time to use it. JMHO.
 
I have blackwood stabilized in sizes or 1.5 square by whatever length. I cut them for slipjoint scales as I need them.. They do not warp after slicing thinly. Use WSSI.
 
John L said:
I have blackwood stabilized in sizes or 1.5 square by whatever length. I cut them for slipjoint scales as I need them.. They do not warp after slicing thinly. Use WSSI.
Click to expand...

I always thought that black wood was to dense to stabylise.

Has the stabylising actual effect?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top