Question: DMT Aligner

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Nov 19, 2014
Messages
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Hi all,

I just got a DMT aligner, which came with coarse, fine, and extra fine stones. I sharpened a S35VN blade with it and went through from the blue coarse stone to the green extra fine. I knew that diamond stones tend to make scratches a lot deeper than other stones. So, I just sort of lightly rubbed the blade with a stone. But the edge after the extra fine still feels quite rough, considering that the grit is supposed to be #1,200 or 9 micron.

Is this normal? Or am I applying too much pressure? Do I need to use the extra extra fine stone, which is coming this week?
Thank you for your help.


Miso

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Answer from the discussion
It is normal. New DMT stones typically need to break in. You can accelerate this process by rubbing the stone surface with a flat metal piece. Alternatively, you can rub stones each other under running water for (finer stones above fine). This has to be done carefully with a very very light pressure, though.
 
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New DMT stones seem rough. I use very little to no pressure.

If you used pressure with the coarse stones, it will take more time for the finer stones to remove the coarse stones' scratch marks.

I hardly use the EEF stone any more as l prefer a more toothy edge than what 8000 grit produces.

I find the XC and XXC stones more useful.
 
Hi all,

I just got a DMT aligner, which came with coarse, fine, and extra fine stones. I sharpened a S35VN blade with it and went through from the blue coarse stone to the green extra fine. I knew that diamond stones tend to make scratches a lot deeper than other stones. So, I just sort of lightly rubbed the blade with a stone. But the edge after the extra fine still feels quite rough, considering that the grit is supposed to be #1,200 or 9 micron.

Is this normal? Or am I applying too much pressure? Do I need to use the extra extra fine stone, which is coming this week?
Thank you for your help.


Miso

Diamond hones take some getting used to, if judging results based on the 'feel' of the finished edge. Done right, it'll feel rougher, but will take on a wickedly aggressive, slicing edge that's also capable of popping hairs.

If 'rubbing' the blade on the hone implies back & forth strokes, I'd suggest using ONLY edge-leading passes, at the lighest possible pressure. Very, very light, edge-leading strokes can often make all the difference in just a pass or two/three, once the edge is apexed or very nearly so. I've found back & forth scrubbing useful for initial shaping of bevels; but, I avoid it in the refining/finishing stages, as it usually tends to round off the apex a bit too easily and is counterproductive to enhancing a very fine, crisp apex.


David
 
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Hi all,

I just got a DMT aligner, which came with coarse, fine, and extra fine stones. I sharpened a S35VN blade with it and went through from the blue coarse stone to the green extra fine. I knew that diamond stones tend to make scratches a lot deeper than other stones. So, I just sort of lightly rubbed the blade with a stone. But the edge after the extra fine still feels quite rough, considering that the grit is supposed to be #1,200 or 9 micron.

Is this normal? Or am I applying too much pressure? Do I need to use the extra extra fine stone, which is coming this week?
Thank you for your help.


Miso

It's normal... in additon to the above answers... diamonds have a "break in" period... and will "smooth out" a bit over a few knives... so you'll see a bit of a difference.
 
Thank you, guys, for the info.
I will keep using it and see how the stones break in.


Miso
 
Most new DMT stones should come broke-in, I would not be surprised is there was still a break-in period though. Nothing is like actually using them.

Some signs of needing break-in would be a very rough feel and creating a very dull finish. The edge will be a little rougher but should still be sharp... just extra toothy. You can accelerate the process by rubbing a flat piece of metal over the surface or actually rubbing the stones together. I would let the Coarse stone break-in on its own but you can rub the Fine and Extra Fine together under running water to "lap" the surface. I did this with my Dia-sharps when they were new and it helped some but time and use did best.

If you do decide to "lap" them just remember to use almost no pressure, just lightly touch the stones together and move in a small circle for about 10-15 seconds. Test the stone on a knife and repeat the lapping process if needed. I don't think I would recommend doing it more than 2 or 3 times unless you are sure it needs it.
 
Thank you, Jason B. I will try the lapping method on the fine and extra fine stones (and the extra extra fine later on).

Miso
 
Most new DMT stones should come broke-in, I would not be surprised is there was still a break-in period though. Nothing is like actually using them.

Some signs of needing break-in would be a very rough feel and creating a very dull finish. The edge will be a little rougher but should still be sharp... just extra toothy. You can accelerate the process by rubbing a flat piece of metal over the surface or actually rubbing the stones together. I would let the Coarse stone break-in on its own but you can rub the Fine and Extra Fine together under running water to "lap" the surface. I did this with my Dia-sharps when they were new and it helped some but time and use did best.

If you do decide to "lap" them just remember to use almost no pressure, just lightly touch the stones together and move in a small circle for about 10-15 seconds. Test the stone on a knife and repeat the lapping process if needed. I don't think I would recommend doing it more than 2 or 3 times unless you are sure it needs it.

Hi,
Does the DMT warranty cover lapping the diamond plates against each other?
 
bucketstonve,

Thank you for the info.

I guess what Jason B. said regarding the pressure applied during lapping is the key.
I will try lapping on a metal plate first and, if necessary, rub the stones against each other.


Miso
 

I guess all I can say to that is... A bit of common sense and the ability to follow directions may be required.


I've performed this lapping process to all of my DMT stones, especially the EF and EEF stones and they are still working fine almost a decade later.
 
I followed Jason B.'s suggestion of rubbing the fine and extra fine stones each other very very lightly under running water. It worked great and made a night-and-day difference.
I also used a SUS steel plate to break the coarse stone as well.

The edge feels much smoother and better!
I will do the same for the extra extra fine stone when it arrives today.


Miso
 
I followed Jason B.'s suggestion of rubbing the fine and extra fine stones each other very very lightly under running water. It worked great and made a night-and-day difference.
I also used a SUS steel plate to break the coarse stone as well.

The edge feels much smoother and better!
I will do the same for the extra extra fine stone when it arrives today.


Miso

Glad it worked out 👍
 
Thank you, Jason B.
It puts a great edge on S35VN, particularly with the EEF stone. And it is easy and fast!
I like it.

Miso
 
Glad it's working great for you Miso2, i'm still waiting for my EEF.

Just gonna throw out a question. How do you know if the diamond stone has been worn beyond use? I've used one of my EP diamond stones to the point that the center of the plate has a different color compared to the rest of the plate. It still cuts steel, just not as aggressively as it used to.
 
Another question.

When I got mine, the stones did not fit into the holder. I had to force them in, and as a result, they bent a little. I sanded the shorter sides to shorten them a bit. Now they fit in much easier. But I was not happy that I had to do it. Is this normal?


Miso
 
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