Thanks for your kind words about my collection, Fausto. While I don't use any kind of hard liner inside the sheaths, I do take precautions to prevent cut through.
If I recall correctly, I've used 9-10 oz. tooling leather for the khukuri sheaths. About the heaviest usually available is 10-11 oz., so what I used was one step down from that. (It was what I had on hand.) If I were buying specifically for khukuri sheath making, I would probably go for the 10-11 oz. About the lightest I would consider using for these blades is 8-9 oz. (In my experience, most fixed blade sheaths are probably 7-8 oz. leather.)
The following picture shows the welt that I used on the edge side of the AK Bowie sheath.
IMO, a substantial welt is one of the most important features that can be built into a sheath for a large fixed blade. The stitching goes through the middle of the welt & is protected from the blade's edge by the leather. A thick welt (You'll note I used 3 layers of leather in the above pic.) can also serve to stiffen the overall sheath, helping to prevent the tip from piercing the front or back of the sheath.
I also reinforce the welt itself in a couple of ways. First, the separate layers of leather are glued together and the welt itself is glued to the main body of the sheath. (I've recently used super glue since it was what I had on hand. In the past, I've used contact cement with good results.) Glue adds to the stiffness, hardens the leather, & prevents the edge of the blade from slipping between the layers. On the AK Bowie sheath, I also used a couple of "cutler's rivets" in the welt. They are both longer & of heavier construction (i.e. solid brass posts & heads) than leather rivets and help to strenghten the overall construction.
In case you haven't seen them, I have a separate
photo album set up with additional pictures of the AK Bowie sheath. Please let me know if you have any other questions. Maybe Terry will add some of his tips to the discussion.
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Cheers,
Brian
He who finishes with the most toys wins.