Question for collectors about thumbstuds?

[Kohai999]

Spoken like a snob. Bah. You can't speak for everyone in New England. This is yours and a number of other's way. And if you are really looking for outside opinions (only you can create the answer), then these comments are valid, whether you choose to use them or not.Coop

No, that is not true, Jim!

No one disputes the "Arkansaw" style of 'smithing, or fails to give it credit to its' origins, right?

The "New England" style goes back to Jim Schmidt, Wayne Valachovic and a few others. It was brought to the forefront by McHenry/Williams with their upscale automatics, and continues to be practiced by many, many makers.

The solid spine is a hallmark of this style, so Chuck is not being a snob at all, but remaining true to a style that he practices.

Which is not to say that R.J. Martin does not make a "New England" knife, but it is not "New England" style.

Everybody get this?

As far as the studs go, Chuck, look seriously at those from Sheffield. I think those are about as good as it gets, but maybe some checkering would be the cherry on top.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson

 

[David Schott]

One idea i've always had for folders when I eventually learn them better would be a damascus thumbstud. You could shape it however you want, then give it a really really long etch and get some DEEP contrast by rubbing out the carbides and re-etching over and over. You can end up with some ultra-deep abrasive surfaces that would grip as well as checkered steel and might be great for a thumbstud or inlay. Ive also always wondered why makers dont make integral opening knives. If you started with thick stock, you could use a small radius wheel to put what amounts to a steep flare at the spine in the spot. Stock remove the rest and i can picture an ultra-clean looking integral stud...just food for thought....

 

[xuesheng]

xuesheng- When you throw other makers names into the discussion you have to consider the type of mechanisms they make. Each can affect the feel when opening.
Some make flippers, framelocks, self locks, or even use IKBS?

Some use teflon, nylatron or phosphor bronze washers, all will affect smoothness.

Lets get back to the subject.

That's exactly the point I'm trying to make. The mechanism and action will help determine what type of opening design works best. I don't think it's off subject. Thinking about design and placement of a stud without considering the mechanism of the knife doesn't make alot of sense to me.

 

[Larrin]

I like pyramid shaped thumbstudss, I find them easier to use than classic ones.

That's interesting, because my small sebenza has a pyramid shaped thumbstud and I think it's the worst part of the whole knife.

 

[Joss]

That's interesting, because my small sebenza has a pyramid shaped thumbstud and I think it's the worst part of the whole knife.

I agree and feel the same way.

 

[bandaidman]

i don't mind the sebenza-type thumbstud on a sebenza type knife

on an art/gents knife i prefer the thumbstud to either be unobtrusive like the bradshaw knife in the picture below....or complementary to the overall design....for me function is secondary to the asthetic on such knives

many knives i see are ruined by having too big a stud (often with a cabechon) or a stud that does not fit with the overall flow of the knife

 

[xuesheng]

I agree and feel the same way.

Me three, it took me a long time to get used to it. Otherwise, I love the knife.

 

[SharpByCoop]

Not necessarily limited to tactical knives, but a thumbdisk style can add an ambidextrous aspect to a knife.

Larry Davidson and Allen Elishewitz and others employ a stair-stepped opening stud. One can get creative on this.

Looking over my files, I found Michael Walker often utilizes a sharp concave pocket on the top to achieve the 'grip' needed to open. He is best known for his locks, but didn't the thumbstud come into BIG popularity with the advent of his easy-opening, near-frictionless lock system?

'New England Style' OK, I'll agree to that. Explained as a style it makes more sense. I needed the style clarification as that was not made clear. (RJ Martin, Howard Hitchmough, Kelly Carlson all hail from New England, among others, and have open back models in abundance.)

Thanks,

Coop

 

[RJ Martin]

Chuck: My comments and ideas for you:
Function comes first: The thumb pivots best and easiest on it's full arc, or one approaching the size of the full arc. I think this is why thumbstuds that are close to the bolster make knives harder to open. Also, when close to the bolster, the bolster get in the way of the thumb.
Of course, not everyone has the same size thumb, but, people with smaller hands generally buy smaller knives....

The thumbstud must provide some sort of grip to the thumb pad, and must be able to grip the pad without excess pressure. This is why I hate pointed thumbstuds-They are unpleasant for me to use.

The stud should be oriented to provide the best grip at the beginning of the motion-which is more outward than forward. Many makers miss this point, and place the ramp on the axis of the blade, instead of at an angle of about 45 degrees to it.

The thumbstud should not be too long or it will hang in the pocket.

Style and design: if you can standardize your studs to a few diameters, you could easily change them out or a customer who prefers a longer or shorter stud without affecting the visual theme of the knife.

Coop: Through my own ignorance, I totally violated the "New England Style" and created my own style- "New England Kick-Ass Tactical".

 

[Chuck Gedraitis Knives]

Thanks R.J. your post really helped and your designs do kick ass! I think your idea of a standardized thumb stud that varies slightly in diameter and length is a great idea.

Coop-
Definition of New England Style as told to me by J.D. Smith-
Damascus blade, damascus front and rear or just front bolsters, natural handle material and lots of filework.

I Quote Steve "Pioneered by Williams, McHenry, Schmidt, Vallachovic, Smith, Dailey, Wright and Selvideo".

Howard, and Kelly do make some knives with full backbars and stop pins. In some the stop pin does the work but is hidden by a fully fileworked backbar that rests on top of it. It might be a modification but it's still New England Style.

 

[jujigatame]

I can see where it's a tough balancing act Chuck. Take the folder you made for me last year (pics below). It's a slim blade so there wouldn't be any more room to push the thumbstud closer to the spine of blade. There may be more room between the stud and bolster if the stud was moved further away from the pivot, but I don't think I'd like the look of the knife when open if the stud was put in that location. What the customer desires to have the knife work well when opening it and the overall look/design of the knife in the maker's eye may contrast. Sometimes the maker and customer only know if this is the case when the customer gets the knife in hand. I don't know that you can cover all the bases all the time, especially where pretty much all of your stuff is one-off.

I do like RJ's idea of one design that could be made smaller or larger, shorter or longer as needed. Depending on what form that could take, it could be something that becomes a unique element to your knives.