Question for glue gurus .

I actually went down to the local pay,n,pay to check out the digital cameras . The difference between a 160 dollar camera and 240 was just too much to be ignored . One was about 3 mega-pixels and the other 6 . It might be a question of bait and switch . I can,t justify the expense of the good camera and the other just doesn,t make it .Both are canons B:T:W: They had a couple of Olympus there that were more rasonable . I don,t know the brand .
A lot of the arrow fletching designs I try out are experimental and if they don,t suit me I don,t repeat them . Most are pretty arrows and I would like a copy of them to show . As for pictures of the ricepaper experiments ? Double ditto goes for them . My birthday is coming . That is mostly spoken for in travel expenses to see my mountain friends .

On an unrelated subject , I want to talk about the hot oil bamboo hardening metod . Can I do it with a pot of oil and not a real deep fryer ? In other words can I just use a thermometer to test for the proper heat level ? Can I use inexpensive cooking oil ? I have a couple of tests that involve bamboo arrow heads as well as non-archery related projects .
 
Kevin?

If you are going to varnish the arrows/shafts anyway, why not use a fine line of thinned varnish as your initial fixative? It is adhesive, and should blend in with the finishing coat.

I know it would require pains-taking work, but you are taking pains anyway.

Good luck.
 
Kismet said:
Kevin?

If you are going to varnish the arrows/shafts anyway, why not use a fine line of thinned varnish as your initial fixative? It is adhesive, and should blend in with the finishing coat.

I know it would require pains-taking work, but you are taking pains anyway.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
Kismet , are you thinking I will only apply glue to the beginning of the shhet of rice paper and just rool the rest of the sheet on dry ? If so it may not give me the result that I want . I wonder how much I could thin the varnish down ? I mostly use varathane and not much of that I might actually have inherited a pint of varnish . I,ll have to check my supplies . I think I would have greater stability if the whole sheet adheres to the bamboo and itself . It will have to flex repeatedly and might shift slightly from time to time and that would affect arrow flight .

On a seperate note .
If you saw how the pros straightened/heatreated/reuce the nodes it would be a sight to see . They have a flat piece of heated steel on a low fireplace . all the bamboo shafts are aliged side by side on this and a large heated heavy metal plate descends on them and is pushed back and forth forcing the bamboo shafts to roll/flatten/reduce the nodes /straighten beneath the heated weight .l
 
Maybe water thin super glue. Works good as a knife handle finish. Might work for your application.

Thanks, Steve
 
No, I was envisioning putting a line of varnish on the shaft, lining up your paper and rolling the shaft so the paper surrounded it, then, if necessary, putting another thin line of varnish to hold for smoothing, etc.

But all this is just conjecture on my part.

Good luck.
 
A--
Olympus gets votes from me
have one, & had a couple
never a problem
good solid performers


B--
to get a whole shaft toasty
won't you need a pretty deep kettle?
Turkey fryer unit comes to mind
those are usually pretty cheap
including the propane burner
But that's an -awful- lot of oil

I know i've googled on bamboo flyrod makers
& seen references to boiling the bamboo
bet they have a long skinny boiler contrived
http://www.google.com/search?num=100&q="bamboo+fly-rod"+~building|~crafting

although most any oil should work for the boiling.
I'd likely go with a drying oil [ not linseed or tung ! ]
(or semi-drying since it will be boiled -- starting polymerization)
likely something inexpensive

~~Drying oils have iodine values ranging from 130 - 190. They dry rapidly on contact with atmospheric oxygen.
Semi-drying oils have iodine values ranging from ~110 - 130. They dry noticably slower.~~
"Iodine Value (IV) is a value of the amount of iodine, measured in grams, absorbed by 100ml of a given oil. The higher the IV the greater potential the oil has to polymerise. "

Iodine numbers vary from batch to batch of any oil
& also depend on the source of raw material,
& the method of processing
So take single numbers as 'nominal'/'typical'

"Drying" & "Semi-drying"
are defined by different ranges of iodine numbers by different authors.

info pages:
http://www.google.com/search?num=100&q=%22drying+oils%22+iodine


http://www.navaching.com/shaku/oil.html
has a concise table of iodine numbers
& tells about french fried bamboo
he uses tung oil
"French Fried
For the adventurous, there's an intriguing wood treatment which bypasses most of the traditional bamboo drying/treatment processes and that's to french-fry the green culm in hot non-catalyzed tung oil. Cut the culm and drill out the nodes. Heat a tube of oil to about 350 F. Introduce the green culm. When all boiling and other activity ceases cut the heat and allow the oil to cool with the culm submerged.
Here's what happens: All moisture is expelled as it's turned into steam and escapes as bubbles. All lignin in the wood is hardened as the oil temperature is above its hardening point. All the surface waxes will be melted and removed. During the cool-down period any air which was greatly expanded at 350 F. contracts and atmospheric pressure drives the oil into the wood. Wipe all excess oil from your culm and submit to the standard 3 month drying period.
The result will be bamboo which has had it's starches and sugars stabilized, all moisture removed and be thoroughly impregnated with hardened linoxyn. The wood will be markedly hardened and strengthened--being waterproof, dent proof, etc. The modulus of elasticity will drop considerably and the material will become even more rigid and 'musical'. The major component of a Stradivarius violin is the treated wood of the top plate. It's acoustical properties are what we recognize as exceptional sound. Once the culm has cured, craft a flute in your usual manner."


http://vegburner.co.uk/oils.htm
has three more extensive iodine value tables

another:
http://www.seatons-uk.co.uk/home.aspx?s=62&r=109&p=450

btw------
Rapeseed ==> Canola
Flaxseed ==> Linseed


C--
Hmmmm................
wondering about using -just- the rolled paper for an arrow shaft
basically creating a cellulose roll-lamination shaft
same proceedure
but no bamboo stalk in the middle

hmmmmmm.......................

?
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<:eek:> Caution: Not all ideas vented from this brain are entirely based on empirical data. JMO-M2C-fWiW-iIRC-YMMV-fYI-TiA-YW-GL
<:D> Noobee <> Tips <> Baha'i Prayers Links --A--T--H--D
 
Hmmmm................
wondering about using -just- the rolled paper for an arrow shaft
basically creating a cellulose roll-lamination shaft
same proceedure
but no bamboo stalk in the middle

hmmmmmm.......................

REPLY : HMMM , your ownself ! L:O:L I think that for the paper to have enough hoop strength you would have to have a lot of glue . There couldn,t be much in the way of eccentricities as that is what we are trying to eliminate . Modern composite shafts and even tradtional composites are pretty much state of the art . We are talking +,- 1 mil over 28 inches for top of the line aluminum carbon shafts . Bamboo for all its evident eccentricities seems to spin very well in the hand which is natures way of testing for wobble . It is very consistent spine per diameter and can be heat and oil tempered as you know . I have only started to work with it and communicate with buddies in Korea and Hong Kong .Korean archers are world champions and come out in traditional gear and kick butt after kicking butt in Olympic or F:I:T:A: gear . I,m looking over your last post again as there is a lot of good stuff in there . See ya monday .
 
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