I agree with what has been said. The basic kit will most certainly get you to a mirrored edge. You also might think stropping more and more and more will make it shiny, but if you see scratches, the strops will not get them out for the most part. You pretty much have to get all of the scratches out and get an almost semi-mirrored hazy edge with the stones/ceramics before going to the strops, otherwise you will have an edge that will be sort of mirrored in the sense that it's pretty shiny and reflective, but with scratches in it. To get good mirror edges, you need to take your time. It can take an hour or two in many cases. I use different techniques and start from heavier to very light pressure with EACH grit/strop and you need to get all of the scratches of the previous grit out with the next grit. If you go too quickly, you'll have scratches from earlier grits that the grits more than one progressive grit beyond that can't get out (if that makes sense. 200 can remove the scratches of 100, but 400 may not be able to remove the deeper scratches left by 100, for example.
I go 100, 200, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200 ceramic, 1600 ceramic, 15/10 micron, 5/3.5 micron and with good technique (and mixed technique as well as pressure) as well as good setup, I can get some outstanding edges and the scratches are hard to see. Still, there are scratches in an almost perfect mirror finish that you can see if you look close enough. It's what most people would call perfect, but there's a reason you can spend hundreds of dollars on stones in the 30,000 grit levels and beyond. I think I could get rid of all of the scratches that the naked eye can see if I went up to 2000 or so, though. However, keep in mind that you won't get very nice mirror edges until you have sharpened a good amount of knives because the stones take a while to break in and leave much deeper scratches at first. Still, that's probably good because your technique will probably not be all that great until you've broken them in anyway.
Again, the strops themselves won't really remove the individual scratches that are big/deep enough to see with the naked eye. That's something I learned the hard way. I thought I just had to strop for hours and hours to slowly polish away the scratches. They just smooth away the micro scratches left by 1000+ grits. They sort of "clean" the edge and brighten up more and more and "blend" it. And they won't even really do that to complete perfection (to the naked eye) until more like 2000+ stones have been used.
Mirrored edges are really cool and look great when done well. I like them because they won't actually cut skin nearly as easy as a toothy edge but they can still get sharper and they hold the edge for the longest time because there aren't as large of "teeth" like on a toothy edge, which quickly get bent and deformed and make the edge duller. I like them for those reasons. However, I find the sharpest edges come from quickly running it over a strop by hand with some 1, .5, or .25 diamond spray. I have a balsa strop with 1 micron Hand American diamond spray and it's much more aggressive than the paste. I strop the edge almost as if I were trying to apply a micro-bevel, so I'm mostly just stropping the apex of the edge. The aggressive diamonds, even though they're finer than the 5/3.5 micron diamond paste strops on the Wicked Edge (which leave a smooth/non-toothy edge), leave an edge that actually feels a little toothy. It makes it as sharp as can be, to where I can literally whittle hair. It will split a hair down the middle. Since you can hold the knife at a more obtuse angle when doing it by hand, this is my last step and although it doesn't polish the edge much more, it just gives it that extra sharpness and adds a bit of "bite" back to the edge that a semi toothy edge has, yet you get the benefits and looks of a mirrored edge. And it still won't dull nor cut skin as easily as an actually toothy edge. It doesn't quite "feel" as sharp in the same way.
Anyway, I hope that helps. Be patient and take your time and really work on technique. Try to perfectly mirror the stroke of your "good" hand (your dominant hand) with the stroke of your other hand. You might have perfect technique with your good hand, but even veterans like Smokeeater908 often have poor technique with their other hand and just push straight forward and round the tip, etc. Try to pay good attention to technique and learn to have consistent technique with both hands. Also make sure that you're always apexing the edge, even when you're pressing lightly. Don't start moving up through the stones before you've used the 50 or 100's to reprofile to where you hit the apex all along the edge. This will mean holding the paddles correctly (as close to the top as possible) if you have the old arms, or get the WEPS with the new ball joint arms. I recommend getting the new arms because the biggest problem people have with the WEPS is not getting sharp edges because of the play in the arms. You have to know how to use them to hit the apex with every stroke. But yeah, other than that, just be patient and break in the stones. Don't give up and don't be sloppy!
I'll probably keep improving at freehanding on the mousepad/sandpaper for my larger blades, but it's just too alluring to have pretty mirrored edges on my folders to not get the WEPS 
I'm extremely anxious to try it out!
