Yep, it comes with a template to show you the hole pattern. I learned of this after I had already figured out the hole spacing the hard way 
As far as the edge angle - get an Angle Cube!. Especially if you get the new arms, because there's no other way to take advantage of the micro adjustment feature, which is the best part, to me.
If you're just using the standard arms without an way of measuring the angle, then just use a marker on the blade (what you will be doing either way) to figure out the angle of the left side arm. Then, set the right arm to one degree higher. If the left arm is 15 degrees, then set the right one to 16 and check again with the marker on the blade to make sure it's hitting the apex of the edge. Depending on the knife, it will almost always be one degree higher on the right side, but occasionally two. The height of the blade and whether it's on the first or second hole vertically won't make much difference. What WILL make a difference is the fact that the left side clamp is stationary and the right side opens to the right, meaning the knife sits right of center in the clamp. The thickness of most knives will usually make a degree of difference, but occasionally a very thick blade will make two degrees of difference. The amount of difference made gets exaggerated the more obtuse the angles are, but don't worry about that, because you'll want to stay within 15-20 degrees per side with most knives. Unless you have the new arms, which have the added benefit of going down to 13 degrees per side! But yeah, if you have no way of measuring the angle, just rely on the marker to make sure each side apexes the edge, but you can almost always count on setting the right side arm to plus on degree. If I was going to do 30 degrees inclusive on an average knife, I'd set the thing to 15 (left) and 16 (right).
Good luck! Just re-read my long previous post once or twice and save yourself a lot of trial and error lol
As far as the edge angle - get an Angle Cube!. Especially if you get the new arms, because there's no other way to take advantage of the micro adjustment feature, which is the best part, to me.
If you're just using the standard arms without an way of measuring the angle, then just use a marker on the blade (what you will be doing either way) to figure out the angle of the left side arm. Then, set the right arm to one degree higher. If the left arm is 15 degrees, then set the right one to 16 and check again with the marker on the blade to make sure it's hitting the apex of the edge. Depending on the knife, it will almost always be one degree higher on the right side, but occasionally two. The height of the blade and whether it's on the first or second hole vertically won't make much difference. What WILL make a difference is the fact that the left side clamp is stationary and the right side opens to the right, meaning the knife sits right of center in the clamp. The thickness of most knives will usually make a degree of difference, but occasionally a very thick blade will make two degrees of difference. The amount of difference made gets exaggerated the more obtuse the angles are, but don't worry about that, because you'll want to stay within 15-20 degrees per side with most knives. Unless you have the new arms, which have the added benefit of going down to 13 degrees per side! But yeah, if you have no way of measuring the angle, just rely on the marker to make sure each side apexes the edge, but you can almost always count on setting the right side arm to plus on degree. If I was going to do 30 degrees inclusive on an average knife, I'd set the thing to 15 (left) and 16 (right).
Good luck! Just re-read my long previous post once or twice and save yourself a lot of trial and error lol
