Question on 80CRV2

CWendling

CWendling

Joined
Sep 10, 2005
Messages
518
Aldo said he isnt planning on getting anymore 5160 for a while and is stocking 80CRV2 instead as it is similar. I know i can order 5160 from Admiral, but have always had better results with Aldo's steel. Ive made a few knives from 5160 and it what I had planned on using for my JS Performance blade. I wasnt able to find a whole lot of info searching on 80CRV2 and was wondering how many of yall have used it and your thoughts.
 
CW when I took the two week ABS class we were essentially trained on how to forge and then test a performance knife. Our instructor wanted to use 5160 but there was none available so we went with 1075 instead. I plan on doing my JS performance test next year and I am going to go with 1075 after using it in the class. It worked out nice and can take a simple heat treat if you don't have an oven.

I see no reason why any other simple carbon steel wouldn't work just fine, but I do know I passed a "mock" performance test with 1075 under the guidance of a MS so that's what I'm going to use. I know that doesn't help with your question on 80CRV but hopefully it will help. I've never used 80CRV but if I recall it has similar properties to 1084.

-Clint
 
80CrV2 (1.2235) is used commercially for carbon steel saw blades, saw blade bodies, pruning shears, scissors and other such stuff. HT is very simple. don't know if you have to forge or if stock removal is ok. buy a piece from AKS, they have been selling it for years as 1080+, and see what you get. makes a good kitchen knife.
scott
 
80crv2 is an excellent steel. It is what I used for my JS performance test. It performed perfectly. Only negotiate I have to say about it is that it does not move under the hammer as well as 10 series steels. Heat treat is no more difficult then any other carbon steel. When you get close to building your performance test knife get ahold of me and I will give you my HT
 
JamesPEmmons said:
80crv2 is an excellent steel. It is what I used for my JS performance test. It performed perfectly. Only negotiate I have to say about it is that it does not move under the hammer as well as 10 series steels. Heat treat is no more difficult then any other carbon steel. When you get close to building your performance test knife get ahold of me and I will give you my HT
Click to expand...
Unless your HT is proprietary, James, I for one would appreciate seeing it, as I use 80CRv2 a lot.
 
Blah blah something bad.. looking for a fight currently, need some help!

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Damnit, not here though, I come in pieces!😠

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This is my current project. 80CRV2 from Aldo. Started with 1.5 x .153 bar. It's .140 now at the ricasso. I have really enjoyed working with it up to this point. I heat treated at 1550 F for 5 min and quenched in Quenchol. Tempered 2x at 350 for 1.5 hours. Had the tiniest bit of warp out of the quench where the tang meets the ricasso that I straightened easily right out of the quench.

It really cleans up well, easily, hand sanding. This may become my default material.

14khdzs.jpg
 
And for those who insist that hidden tangs are wimpy, I give you Exhibit 1.:D
kuraki said:
This is my current project. 80CRV2 from Aldo. Started with 1.5 x .153 bar. It's .140 now at the ricasso. I have really enjoyed working with it up to this point. I heat treated at 1550 F for 5 min and quenched in Quenchol. Tempered 2x at 350 for 1.5 hours. Had the tiniest bit of warp out of the quench where the tang meets the ricasso that I straightened easily right out of the quench.

It really cleans up well, easily, hand sanding. This may become my default material.

14khdzs.jpg
Click to expand...
 
Grogimus....no idea what you are trying to say.

James, I would love to hear your HT process. I have some 80CRV2 on the way and i plan on forging out a couple of test knives with it
 
Just ignore Grogimus. I think he is having a bad day. Please don't respond to his comments.
 
kuraki said:
This is my current project. 80CRV2 from Aldo. Started with 1.5 x .153 bar. It's .140 now at the ricasso. I have really enjoyed working with it up to this point. I heat treated at 1550 F for 5 min and quenched in Quenchol. Tempered 2x at 350 for 1.5 hours. Had the tiniest bit of warp out of the quench where the tang meets the ricasso that I straightened easily right out of the quench.

It really cleans up well, easily, hand sanding. This may become my default material.

14khdzs.jpg
Click to expand...

Kuraki , always in this place make small radius . If I grind engine crankshaft like that will break :)

av6h4y.jpg
 
Here is what I used for my test knife:

Normalized using 1600 air cool to black, 1550 air cool to black, 1500 air cool to black then quenched in Houghton K
5 minute soak at 1485 then quench in 90 degree Houghton K
One hour snap temper at 400
Sub-zero overnight (dry ice)
2 x 415 for two hours
Flame draw spine to blue with edge in water two times

I have seen switched to Houghton G for this steel as I have cracked two knife in the Houghton K with steel.

Here are some videos from a ABS style practice test with a blade made from 80crv2.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPsXnjKpA-Y

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOtZzJ_PfTA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t1TwKxwBkp4

Here is also a photo of the grain structure from a blade tip I snapped, this is right out of the quench

 
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