Question on freehanding technique

[Obsessed with Edges]

Obsessed, if you get a chance could you snap a cellphone pic or two showing how you grip your double-stuff hone and slide it along the blade.

I'd like to see a detailed shot showing stuff like...
* What angle you hold the knife at, and the hone.
* Do you hold hone perpendicular to, or parallel to, the blade when you grind along from heel to tip.

Also, do you use that hone for everything, and if so, what do you like about it better than say diamond hones, when you have to do heavier work?

Basically, when I'm using that technique, the knife is held in one hand, edge upward, blade pointed away from me, usually with my index finger alongside the blade. The hone is held in my other hand, by the ends, thumb at the upper end, middle and ring finger at the lower end, with my index finger folded underneath the back side of the hone, more or less in the center (this provides support & stability). Everything is angled in such a way as to allow me a good view of the edge in flush contact with the hone. I place the hone against the edge as far back to the heel/ricasso as possible, and then carefully slide it along the edge toward the tip. Sometimes the motion will be back & forth along that axis, sort of a scrubbing motion. The hone, as used in this manner, is more or less perpendicular to the blade (or slightly diagonal), with direction of motion parallel to the edge. I have a small strop block, made of 1-1/2" wide, 1/4" thick red oak, with leather on one side. I've put 1 micron diamond paste on both the leather and on the smooth back side. When stropping on the wood, I often use the same motion as with the ceramic hone. That obviously wouldn't work too well on the leather, as the longitudinal stroke would likely slice into it.

I also have a couple of 'credit card' diamond hones that I use in somewhat similar fashion. With those in particular, that longitudinal stroke really helps save the fingertips, which would otherwise be in constant peril with the edge going toward the ends of the hone (where my fingers are ).

I mainly use the ceramic hone when finishing up on a blade (after doing most work on diamond hones). Depending on the edge finish, I might also use it more extensively to polish the bevel, followed by the same technique using the oak strop block. Otherwise, if my edge isn't going to be as polished, I'll use the ceramic only if I need to clean up burrs & wire edges.

When I have some decent light tomorrow, I'll see if I can take a pic or two of how the hone is held in my hand (maybe my strop block too). If I can figure out how to get a pic of the hone on the blade (requiring both hands ), I'll post that too.