Question on grinder platens

R

R.C.Reichert

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Jul 26, 2008
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Just curious why guys are using hardened steel, ceramic, or glass platens on their grinders. Is there an advantage to having such a hard surface versus say a mild steel platen?
 
Wear resistance. The friction of the belt combined with lab the dust, steel grindings, loose grit and everything else rubs on the platen, which makes it hollow out. the harder the platen the slower that happens.
 
I have O1 hardened that have dished out and so I surfaced them and put on ceramic glass and not looking back.
 
Ceramic definitely the way to go.
 
I prefer ceramic. I have O1 now, as the ceramic I bought was too long. I then learned neither I nor the local glass shop could cut it. I'll order a correct length ceramic as the O1 wears out.
 
I used mild steel when I built my grinder and it was short lived. As soon as it started to dish out in both directions, clean grinds became next to impossible. once I switched to ceramic glass, I have no noticeable wear, less belt friction, and a platen surface that is dead flat and true. I don't think I would ever go back to steel at this point.
 
Where are you getting your ceramic platens at? and do you just epoxy it to your existing platen? I made mine out of a big old cast iron miter gage for a table saw and it's starting to show a little wear.
 
I got mine from USA Knifemaker and love it. It was too long for my grinder, so I had a local glass guy cut it to size (he actually just used a plain old glass cutter for it; so it can be done, but the likelihood of it breaking is higher). I attached mine with JB Weld, but I know a lot of people swear by double-sided exterior mounting tape. In fact, the only reason I didn't go that route was that there was a pretty severe low spot on the mild steel platen backing, so I wanted the JB weld to harden and support the glass there. Been using it for several months now, and no cracks, and it's improved my grinds a lot.

EDIT: By the way, you absolutely need a ledge under the glass. I drilled and tapped two holes in the platen and bolted a narrow ledge of flat bar just a little thinner then the glass. I also always check that that the glass isn't loose before I start grinding.
 
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you can get them made to size on Ebay
 
I tried the JB Weld on my first Glass Platen and some how I cracked the glass so I found it a PIA to get it cleaned. I switched to 3M double sided tape I see no difference in it's
ability to securely hold the glass. I welded a 1/8" lip to the bottom of my steel platen to locate and hold the pyroceram

I purchased mine from USA Knifemaker when they were in stock. Order two so you have a backup.

Mike
 
Busto said:
I tried the JB Weld on my first Glass Platen and some how I cracked the glass so I found it a PIA to get it cleaned. I switched to 3M double sided tape I see no difference in it's
ability to securely hold the glass. I welded a 1/8" lip to the bottom of my steel platen to locate and hold the pyroceram

I purchased mine from USA Knifemaker when they were in stock. Order two so you have a backup.

Mike
Click to expand...

I cracked one in the past. The platen was flat and mounted with a bolt at the top and the bottom. Well the platen was not 100% flat on the back and when the bolts tighted it flexed and cracked the glass.
 
A mild steel platen will last of all 5 minutes before it starts to dish out and transfer wear lines onto your blade grinds. Hardened steel will last considerably longer if done correctly, but ceramic glass lasts longer yet, and is much easier to get set up with.

The best source I know of is eBay. Search "pyroceram" and sort for lowest price, and follow the ordering directions for the specific length you need.


The main thing is that you have some sort of "ledge" or stop at the bottom of your platen, should your adhesive fail. I've used an exterior grade double sided carpet tape for years without any issue. When it's time to change the glass, just heat with a torch, and pry loose with a scraper. Clean the tape residue off with acetone. As long as the backing surface is as flat as the glass, you'll get a good bond.
 
I've found that the pyroceram glass can get gouges in it. Has anyone surfaced their pyroceram glass platens before? If so, how did you do it? I've just been using my stock Beaumont KMG mild steel platens and surface grinding them every so often. Works fine.
 
Another vote for Chad. I got the platen for my first grinder from him. I ordered the wrong length for the second. I'll be ordering another soon.
 
Definitely Chaz is the manand great customer service. When putting it on I highly recommended using Jb weld, make sure you have the platen depth not sticking too far out, it will prematurealy wear out the glass and other stuff.
 
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