Question on Stripping from a Newb

MississipVol · Jul 8, 2015

I am pretty new to this forum and wondered what the general consensus is on stripping a blade of its coating? I have a BK16 I just ordered micarta scales for and was thinking about stripping the coating while I'm at it.

It's gotten a lot of use and the coating has smoothed out a lot so it doesn't cause much drag. But I really like the look of a stripped blade I've seen from others who've done this so was considering it myself. I just don't want to cause myself a lot more problems with rust.

What is the consensus here?

marcinek · Jul 8, 2015

Welcome. If you like the look of a stripped blade...do it! :thumbup:

Rust shouldn't really be a problem. Wipe the blade off after you use it, maybe put a coat of mineral oil on it, and dont store it in the sheath. It'll be fine.

MississipVol · Jul 8, 2015

Awesome! I've heard others say it would make rust a big problem but didn't know if that would really be a huge issue. I usually use olive oil so would mineral oil work better? I just don't want to use one of the chemical-based ones because I do use it for food-related out in the field. Thanks!

MississipVol · Jul 8, 2015

Also, what's the best product to use to strip the coating?

craytab · Jul 8, 2015

MississipVol said:
Awesome! I've heard others say it would make rust a big problem but didn't know if that would really be a huge issue. I usually use olive oil so would mineral oil work better? I just don't want to use one of the chemical-based ones because I do use it for food-related out in the field. Thanks!

I did my Esee 5. Went great. Just get some paint stripper at the hardware store, something to scrape with, And if you want to sand it some sand paper. I put a patina on and have had no issue with rust though I don't use the knife (Esee 5 is a brick, more of a novelty). On my using knives that have had rust issues I also put a patina on and have not had anymore issues with rust.

It is a fun little process that truly makes the knife yours:

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craytab · Jul 8, 2015

MississipVol said:
Also, what's the best product to use to strip the coating?

I used one that comes in a spry can and it foams up.

marcinek · Jul 8, 2015

MississipVol said:
Also, what's the best product to use to strip the coating?

I hear Klean Strip.

RedLynx · Jul 8, 2015

What is that amazingly shiny piece of Mora-looking-chef amazingness?

MississipVol · Jul 8, 2015

Is mustard still a good way to patina a knife? That's what I was considering but I've heard some people say they use apple cider vinegar. I would think mustard would be easier because it would actually stick to the blade.

craytab · Jul 8, 2015

RedLynx said:
What is that amazingly shiny piece of Mora-looking-chef amazingness?

That would be from my set of four kitchen knives that were a collaboration between Esee Knives and Ethan Becker. They are now discontinued but were a steal at the $55 I paid and they carry the Esee warranty! Truly fantastic!

http://www.eseeknives.com/esee-cooking-knives.htm

Back to the OP, I forgot to mention that I wouldn't use olive oil to oil your knives as it is food based and will go rancid. Mineral oil is perfectly fine and food safe.

craytab · Jul 8, 2015

MississipVol said:
Is mustard still a good way to patina a knife? That's what I was considering but I've heard some people say they use apple cider vinegar. I would think mustard would be easier because it would actually stick to the blade.

this might blow your mind, but I mix mustard with Red Wine vinegar. More acid and it sticks a little better. Really there is no wrong way. If it turns out you don't like what you did just polish it off and try something else.

ocnLogan · Jul 8, 2015

MississipVol said:
Is mustard still a good way to patina a knife? That's what I was considering but I've heard some people say they use apple cider vinegar. I would think mustard would be easier because it would actually stick to the blade.

Anything acidic works. I usually use vinegar, hot sauce, or mustard. Just depends on what's handy. And I've not had problems with rust on any of my patina'd blades.

WK ONE · Jul 8, 2015

Uh, I thought this thread was about something else. Carry on.

orezona · Jul 8, 2015

Totally worth it...!

I didn't strip/patina this one but bought it off the exchange from someone that way... But the patina job wasn't the best and when I was replacing the hardware with stainless I found some rust under the scales. Ended up doing a red wine vinegar soak and darkened it a bit, then liberally applied mineral oil and some chapstick along the edge of the exposed tang on the handle.

I did however strip this KA-BAR Famine using CitriStrip which gave it an awesome patina in the process:

I detailed the process here.

CitriStrip is my preference because it's way less toxic than brake cleaner or other solvent heavy VOC strippers. You can use it indoors, which is nice.

MississipVol · Jul 8, 2015

orezona said:
Totally worth it...!

I didn't strip/patina this one but bought it off the exchange from someone that way... But the patina job wasn't the best and when I was replacing the hardware with stainless I found some rust under the scales. Ended up doing a red wine vinegar soak and darkened it a bit, then liberally applied mineral oil and some chapstick along the edge of the exposed tang on the handle.

I did however strip this KA-BAR Famine using CitriStrip which gave it an awesome patina in the process:

I detailed the process here.

CitriStrip is my preference because it's way less toxic than brake cleaner or other solvent heavy VOC strippers. You can use it indoors, which is nice.

That BK16 looks really nice. I think those are the scales I just ordered and they look great.

I wouldn't mind a natural patina like the CitriStrip left on your Ka-Bar. Do you think it protects as well as any other acidic patina? Also, how long did you leave the citri-strip on before you started scraping it?

TravisH · Jul 9, 2015

Citrustrip is great. We use it in the workshop. Never really timed it. Just slathered it on and go do other things.

Generally, the deeper/darker the patina, the better the protection. The patina is a form of corrosion/oxidation, essentially 'pre-rusted'. But you will still need to perform some care maintenance.

orezona · Jul 9, 2015

I left the CitriStrip on for about 45 minutes out in the sun to warm it (not sure if that helps but figured why not?).

I used a plastic paint scraper because I was paranoid about scratching the blade. Don't be fooled about CitriStrip not being powerful just because it's "natural"... I had on a pair of latex gloves and after handling the coated blade and using the scraper the CitriStrip ate through them! Also ruined the plastic scraper as well. You can tell the stripper is working when the epoxy coating is literally "bubbling" up and it seems the thicker you apply it, the quicker it works.

No matter what though, you still want to use a little oil on the blade like Travis mentions. I use mineral oil because it's cheap and won't poison me if I cut food with it on my blade. It's preventative maintenance just like honing the edge after using it.

dkb45 · Jul 9, 2015

Word to the wise with chemical stripper is that it is NASTY stuff. I was wearing Chem resistant gloves and it ate straight through them. Didn't even notice until I felt the burning, and in less than 15 seconds exposure I had chemical burns on my hands. The fumes are also horrible.

Do it outside and get some highly Chem resistant gloves. Also be mindful of drips, because I burned my leather shoes with a single drop falling on them. Now the area is burned in like a cigarette was dropped on it.