Question on taking a 110 apart

R

RAGS

Joined
Jul 11, 2000
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I would like to try to customize a 110 on my own,but I would need to take it apart in order to do it.Has anyone here taken a 110 apart and sucessfully put it back together?If so,can you share some tips or pointers?Thanks.
 
RAGS said:
...but I would need to take it apart in order to do it.Has anyone here taken a 110 apart...
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As was pointed out to me, that would void the warranty... ;)
 
Yeah,I know the warranty would be voided,but I still have a few ideas I would like to try.
 
Assuming the knife is not super old, you could probably to it if you have replacement parts. If you want the knife in half, you will have to remove two bolster and one blade rivet. This is kinda tricky because you can't always see them.
You will also have to remove the rocker pin. If you don't care about the inlays, this is easy to do. Just sand the head of the pin off and tap it out the other side.
The hardest part about putting the knife back together is getting it done with the proper blade action and no excessive gaps between the parts.
If it were me, I would buy a few beat up knives to practice on.
Last piece of advice... Sorry but no, we do not sell parts. :(
 
Thanks for the tips,Joe.I have a beat up 110 to practice on,so I'll start with that and see what happens.
 
Joe Houser said:
Assuming the knife is not super old, you could probably to it if you have replacement parts. If you want the knife in half, you will have to remove two bolster and one blade rivet. This is kinda tricky because you can't always see them.:(
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Joe,

Are the bolster rivets counter sunked ?

What are the sizes of the bolster pins, rocker pin and scale rivets ?

Will the 110 custom shop engrave the rocker bar rather than the bolster if I were to order 1 from them ?
 
nagamitsu said:
Are the bolster rivets counter sunked ?

What are the sizes of the bolster pins, rocker pin and scale rivets ?
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I have a 110 apart here...The bolster rivet drove right out; no countersink...seems to be .130"...rocker pin is .122"...scale rivets are .060" (with a wide "head", almost like a tack...they seem to be peened from the backside of the liner)...

It's easy to find the bolster rivets if you clean it real good [I wiped with lacquer thinner] then let it oxidize for a few days (just let it sit out without cleaning)... :D
 
chickentrax said:
It's easy to find the bolster rivets if you clean it real good [I wiped with lacquer thinner] then let it oxidize for a few days (just let it sit out without cleaning)... :D
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Thankyou for the measurements chickentrax. I have no trouble finding the pins at all. My hands, coupled with the tropical environment are that corrosive, the brass greens a few hours after polishing & handling :mad: .
 
nagamitsu said:
Thankyou for the measurements chickentrax.
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I was curious, too. I haven't gotten far enough to think about new pins yet. I find it odd that they aren't standard "yankee" sizes, though...or Metric either... :confused:

Maybe the brass pivot pin compress when peened??? maybe the rocker pin is undersized to allow free "rockering"??? ;) The scale rivets being so small has me stumped...

The hole in the blade [where the bushing fits] is odd, too...a #2 drill bit is just right... :rolleyes:

I have no trouble finding the pins at all. My hands, coupled with the tropical environment are that corrosive, the brass greens a few hours after polishing & handling :mad: .
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... :D... Where you at???...
 
Bolster rivets are 1/8" pin stock same as the pin through the locking bar. You can get an 1/8" punch to knock out the pins. When you put it back together, you need to peen the pins over and get a good mushroom. It's best to grind them off with a belt sander. If you do it by hand, expect to be at it for awhile. It's very tidious work. The hardest part is getting the blade centered in the handle. You also need to put shims between the bolsters and the blade so not to have it too tight that the blade will not open and close properly. I've rehandled several 112's and Schrade LB7's. No more for me, it's a pain in the butt.:D
Scott
 
To take a knife apart Take a Stanley box cutter blade. Place it between the back spring and take a hammer and drive the blade down and it will cut the pin into. This is the best way. For new pens you can order them through a Knifemaker parts company. you can find them listed in Knife World or Blade Mag. Thanks Knife Doctor.
 
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