question on the Stainless Steel used by Case

Thank you kindly all for the excellent info. Looks like my 1st case will be a trapper SS.
 
I do a lot of whittling. I have used Case CV, Canal Street Stainless, Case Stainless, Victorinox Stainless, and multiple variations of 1095. While I can get stainless very sharp, I cannot get it to glide through wood as well as I can CV or 1095. It is subtle, but real. I came at this from a "stainless is king" approach, as I did not see why anyone would still use carbon, but after a while, I noticed a subtle difference tipped towards carbon steels. Among the stainless I found the Canal Street Cutlery stainless to be the best for whittling.

More importantly, however, is that I have noticed variations in 1095 steel knives. Schrade Walden seemed to have the best. They take an edge faster and stay razor sharp longer. GEC takes longer to get sharpen, but holds an edge a really long time. My old Winchester (which is my current and all time favorite EDC), which is made by Queen, takes an edge fast but dulls faster than other 1095. It was also easiest to re-profile into a wicked sharp whittler.
 
rwc53 said:
P.S. It also is etched on the main blade "The Rabbit Hash General Store", which was one of my favorite places as a kid! It was, and still is, a "mom and pop" grocery/general store in Rabbit Hash, Kentucky, on the Ohio River. Haven't been there in a very long time, but I'm hoping they still have ice cold grape soda for the folks that can make it there!
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pinnah said:
Published/reported Rc numbers for some makers include:
55-56 Rc: Victorinox Inox
56 Rc: Case Tru-Sharp (420 HC)
58 Rc: Opinel Inox (Sandvik 12C27) and Buck 420HC

I suspect you won't find any real difference between Vic Inox and Case Tru-Sharp.

With respect to what you hear here on this forum... I think a lot of us have a strong love for non-stainless carbon steels. I wouldn't read too much into anything you've read that is negative about Tru-Sharp other than it simply isn't carbon. ;)

This said, I find hard (Rc58) fine grained stainless and hard (Rc 58) carbon impossible to distinguish in use but I can tell a difference between soft (56Rc) stainless and soft (Rc56) carbon. I find soft stainless a bit gummier and burr prone on the stones.
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dma1965 said:
I do a lot of whittling. I have used Case CV, Canal Street Stainless, Case Stainless, Victorinox Stainless, and multiple variations of 1095. While I can get stainless very sharp, I cannot get it to glide through wood as well as I can CV or 1095. It is subtle, but real. I came at this from a "stainless is king" approach, as I did not see why anyone would still use carbon, but after a while, I noticed a subtle difference tipped towards carbon steels. Among the stainless I found the Canal Street Cutlery stainless to be the best for whittling.

More importantly, however, is that I have noticed variations in 1095 steel knives. Schrade Walden seemed to have the best. They take an edge faster and stay razor sharp longer. GEC takes longer to get sharpen, but holds an edge a really long time. My old Winchester (which is my current and all time favorite EDC), which is made by Queen, takes an edge fast but dulls faster than other 1095. It was also easiest to re-profile into a wicked sharp whittler.
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Thanks for that Pinnah. Opinel stainless is the one which has impressed me for an inexpensive stainless.

dma1965 - Yeah, I like carbon and one reason is because it holds an edge well when compared to how easy it is to sharpen. I like Case CV better than it's stainless. I'm prolly prejudiced toward carbon steel though, and the difference is small enough to be outweighed by corrosion resistance if that is important to you (I suppose;)).

rwc53 - I work in Kentucky fairly near Rabbit Hash. I've never been there but have heard and read a lot about it. It's a popular place for motorcycle riders these days as it's a nice wooded ride to and from. They elected a local dog mayor for a few terms.

rabbit-hash-march-7-2010-078_edited-1.jpg


http://mpgarr59.wordpress.com/2012/12/21/a-little-slice-of-heaven-rabbit-hash-kentucky/
 
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As a recovering steel snob, I can vouch for SS. No, not as good as CV in my opinion, but it will still cut. When you think about what a slipjoint can do, even pushed to it's limits, SS is fine.

Now 420J2, I'm kidding...
 
I like both Case CV and Case Tru-Sharp and most often depends what I am going to expose the knife to as which I use. Using Arkansas stones soft / hard I can sharpen Case CV to hair shaving sharp, but not able to get the same results from the Case stainless. I am going to try the less pressure method recommended above.
As you are speaking of re profiling the edge can someone please explain in an understandable way what you are doing?
Thanks
Bob
 
stockdog said:
I like both Case CV and Case Tru-Sharp and most often depends what I am going to expose the knife to as which I use. Using Arkansas stones soft / hard I can sharpen Case CV to hair shaving sharp, but not able to get the same results from the Case stainless. I am going to try the less pressure method recommended above.
As you are speaking of re profiling the edge can someone please explain in an understandable way what you are doing?
Thanks
Bob
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For me, 'reprofiling' just means thinning the edge grind, a.k.a. reducing the edge angle by sharpening at a lower angle until the bevels intersect cleanly at the apex. Lately, I've just been using a Fine diamond hone to do it (for both stainless and CV), but I've also had good results doing this on hard-backed wet/dry sandpaper (over hardwood or glass, preferably).

Stainless steel can sometimes be a bit 'gummy' and clog a stone's surface, and the 420HC used by Case can certainly do this. You might be seeing some of this, in your difficulties with the Arkansas stones. If the swarf starts to clog it, it'll slow down quite a bit and the results will likely suffer. Arkansas stones can also 'glaze' over on the surface, meaning the natural abrasives get somewhat burnished by the steel, and won't cut aggressively anymore. Only way to fix that, is to lap or re-finish the stone by sanding/grinding. This is partly why I prefer to use a diamond hone (very fast, easy to clean if it clogs, and it won't 'glaze' over) or wet/dry sandpaper, which is replaceable when it starts slowing down; it can also be cleaned of swarf to some extent, by wiping with a microfiber towel or a rubber eraser, or used wet as the name implies, which helps to float or rinse away the swarf in use.


David
 
David
Thanks for the great reply. I will get a finer DMT and lighten up pressure. I have the folding red/blue. I am old and do good free handing the old 1970 era BUCK, Case CV and Old Timer 1095 but as time has moved along I have not mastered the newer stainless steels. I have bought some customs and get bummed at not being able to get it hair shaving sharp, they cut good but just not quite.
This is a great informative thread, and a great place.
Thanks
 
stockdog said:
David
Thanks for the great reply. I will get a finer DMT and lighten up pressure. I have the folding red/blue. I am old and do good free handing the old 1970 era BUCK, Case CV and Old Timer 1095 but as time has moved along I have not mastered the newer stainless steels. I have bought some customs and get bummed at not being able to get it hair shaving sharp, they cut good but just not quite.
This is a great informative thread, and a great place.
Thanks
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For the refining on Case's stainless, some white rouge compound (aluminum oxide) on a very firm strop has worked well for me, for de-burring after the reprofiling. If taken further, it's also a very aggressive polisher and can take the finish to mirror, or very nearly so. Again, use it on as firm a strop as possible; edges finish much crisper this way (I use a homemade strop of thin linen on a piece of hard plywood, with this compound). For additional refining and occasional touching up, green compound on leather has become my favorite finish for this steel (also like it for CV, 1095 and Buck's 420HC as well).

Hope this is helpful. Good luck!! :)


David
 
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I used to get nervous about corrosion, but not anymore. Slice some fruit and cut up a steak and you will build a great patina and that really ends corrosion worries. It also looks cool.
 
I sold Case knives for years and still have over 500 in my personal collection. I would sell 5 or more SS for every CV. Most buyers wanted the stainless for anti corrosion purposes. The CV I believe does hold a better edge.
 
I like Case SS quite a bit. As others mentioned in this and previous threads getting rid of the bur is the key. I like to sharpen with diamond the first few times as it seems to get rid of the burr easier. I also like to check the edge using the edge of another knife blade to feel for a rolled edge remaining on the sharpened knife. Once you get the SS edge conditioned it's pretty sweet. I find it sometimes takes a few sessions of sharpening to get it the way I want. YMMV but I think you will be happy with the trusharp.
 
davek, thanks for the photo of the Rabbit Hash General Store! That sure brings back memories from my youth (late 50's, early 60's). If I remember correctly, where the bikers are standing on the porch, there used to be an old-fashioned drink cooler full of ice water, with ice cold sodas inside. Of course, these memories are over 50 years old, so I could be wrong!

Regards,
Ron
 
David
I do thank you for the information above on sharpening the Case SS. This weekend I was able to add Case SS to my list of steels that I have mastered the process of hand sharpening. You were correct just lighten up on the pressure made all the difference.
Thanks
Bob

Thanks Blade Forums, Traditional Folders for a great site.
 
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