Question regarding a Ka-Bar's handle.

They are pinned at the pommel, that's the direction the handle would come off if it ever came to it. I hope every one gets the chance, makes the choice, to have at least one leather-handled Ka-bar utility/fighter in their life. It's not the best for any certain task but they really have a soul and help you feel connected to our patriots who used/loved them.

I do wish the clip-section/false-edge still came sharpened though. Definitely the history, great handle shape and feel, sweet balance, and $50 price (all over the place now) make it a must have.
 
So you should be able to either drive the pin out or drill the pin out, replace the handle, and re-pin the pommel.
 
So what do I do with it (or the Air Force Survival with the same kind of leather handle) after I find it in a drawer and some of the leather has already rotted away?

Why is it in a drawer rather than out in the field doing stuff? There's yer problem right there.

---

Beckerhead #42
 
The original Ka-Bar design was threaded, but proved to be too fragile so it was quickly switched to pinned construction. Current production and most of the old is pinned. Look at where the tang comes through the butt cap. If it's rectangular, no threads there.

Pilot's knives are not threaded or welded. The tang is pushed through the hex butt end and then peened/mushroomed over to hold it in place.
 
They are pinned at the pommel, that's the direction the handle would come off if it ever came to it. I hope every one gets the chance, makes the choice, to have at least one leather-handled Ka-bar utility/fighter in their life. It's not the best for any certain task but they really have a soul and help you feel connected to our patriots who used/loved them.
I do wish the clip-section/false-edge still came sharpened though. Definitely the history, great handle shape and feel, sweet balance, and $50 price (all over the place now) make it a must have.
Honestly, that's one of the best description I've ever read for owning a particular knife, Ka Bar or otherwise. :thumbup:
 
The guys I know who make stacked leather handles (sometimes adding metal and/or fiber washers for contrast) use a slow setting epoxy. The glue is applied between every washer. The handle is compressed. A cross pin is inserted through the butt cap and the tang. After the glue is very dry, the handle is contoured and finished.
 
I love the leather handle on my Kabar. Mine's about 20 years old and still no issues and it's been used hard in both wet and dry conditions. Only recently have I started using a different knife, the Kabar Becker BK2!
 
All,

Listen to Blue Sky. He has the correct scoop on the F/U and Pilot Survival tangs/pommels.

OrdinanceBubbaUSMC,

Well stated. This is exactly how I feel every time I pick up the F/U knife (Multiple times a day). A big responsibility.
Sorry for the unsharpened swedge. Laws in Cal. and Mass. prohibit this.
Notice that it's easy to mod the swedge to your liking.
Hope all this helps.

Best Regards,

Paul Tsujimoto
Sr Eng
Prod Dev and Qual
KA-BAR Knives
 
Came across this on the Bernie Levine forum.

It shows the pin in the buttcap pretty well.

DSCN2115.JPG
 
I got mine about 23 years ago. It has a pinned pommel. I removed the upper quillon, shaped the handle and filed down the pommel to suit. Nice and comfortable handle, and easy to use for any task. Great value for money.
 
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