Question regarding milling machines

godogs57 said:
Mike,

My main problem is the initial cut after drilling the holes. Example: I am cutting a slot for a 1/8" thick blade...well, of course, you have to use a bit smaller than 1/8" for your starter holes...just about every file I have, or can buy, is not thin enough to get started through the holes...excepting a "points" file from the auto store..and it is murder to hang on to while trying to get it started through the hole...

My slotting files that I use after the hole is enlarged are flattened on the side so it wont lengthen the hole...brilliant minds think alike I see.

Be good.
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Call MSC, http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/nnsrhm , or 1-800-645-7270, and get their catalog, it's free, but tell them you're a knifemaker.Files page, http://www.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRHI?PMSECT=2007430

They've got all styles of files there.
Here's another place. http://www.boggstool.com/ They sharpen files, but they sell new ones also.
Here's Grobet's site. http://www.grobetusa.com/
 
Here's a slotting idea for you no-mill guys (like me). Just stuff I learned from the guys here.

Drill 2 small holes at each end of the slot.

From the back side drill some holes where the slot is going but larger than the slot using an end mill. And NOT all the way thru. Leave as much thickness from the front as you think you need to hold the guard in place. (I leave a good 1/8"). Now you only have 1/8" of material to slot.

Using a dremel tool and a cut off wheel, make the slot but a bit narrow.

Now file to size.

Leave it tight. Clamp the ricasso in a vice. Slip a pipe over the tang and pound guard in place.

The real kicker is using that cutoff wheel to make the first slot. Really helps and you don't have to start with those tiny files.

Steve
 
so is it ok to use end mills in your drill press if you are just cutting straight down? If so and the end mills dont flex can you just overlap your straight down drillings to make a slot? I know i cant overlap holes using a regular drill bit because they flex and glance off.
 
Sando said:
Here's a slotting idea for you no-mill guys (like me). Just stuff I learned from the guys here.

Drill 2 small holes at each end of the slot.

From the back side drill some holes where the slot is going but larger than the slot using an end mill. And NOT all the way thru. Leave as much thickness from the front as you think you need to hold the guard in place. (I leave a good 1/8"). Now you only have 1/8" of material to slot.

Using a dremel tool and a cut off wheel, make the slot but a bit narrow.

Now file to size.

Leave it tight. Clamp the ricasso in a vice. Slip a pipe over the tang and pound guard in place.

The real kicker is using that cutoff wheel to make the first slot. Really helps and you don't have to start with those tiny files.

Steve
Click to expand...

This is actually part of my technique for milling slots on the machine. Lately, I have been into really thick/wide guards on my knives, and the guard gets blended into the handle. If the thickness of the guard is greater that the depth of the endmill, which is the case with a 1/8" endmill I usually use, then I use a similar technique to remove material from the back side of the guard so the endmill will not have to travel as deeply to finish the cut.
 
Terry,

I don't know the official answer. I do overlap a little in that process. Hey Jeff is it OK?

Also I should explain the dremel part a bit better. Let's say the slot needs to be .140" I'll drill the two marker holes at about an 1/8" (.125). With the dremel I'll make two cuts. One on each edge of the slot, connecting the holes. Now the slot is .125-.130. The tricky part is, you need to cut from the front. That wheel can leave a nasty gouge. Not hard if you put the guard in a vice and hold the tool with two hands and one resting on the vice.

Steve
 
Terry_Dodson said:
so is it ok to use end mills in your drill press if you are just cutting straight down? If so and the end mills dont flex can you just overlap your straight down drillings to make a slot? I know i cant overlap holes using a regular drill bit because they flex and glance off.
Click to expand...

That could work, but you'd still need to clean up the slot with some fine files. Be sure to use some cutting oil in there when you do this, and keep the rpms under 1000 and you should be okay. Whatever you do, be sure to clamp your work down. I don't want to hear about you getting hurt, Terry. I'll sick IG on ya! :eek:
 
Sorry I wasn't able to finish what I was writing the other day. I baby sit a bunch of my grandkids when I am not at work and there is a 13 yr old girl ( going on 20 ) that just lives on the computer any time she is not in school. As you can guess I don't get much time on her computer.

I want to thank every one that has been adding hints to easy ways of doing things here. Having worked on machines for so many years I find I forget to remember to spell out all the little things I have learned and that I still put into practice almost every day without taking time to think about it.

I sure agree with buying the biggest, strongest mill you can afford for as you learn how to use it you will be glad you did.
Have a good day here come the kids -- I bet they are hungery.
 
ddavelarsen said:
Michael I am very interested in learning about your CNC setup. I'm going on vacation in a couple days so will be out of contact for a while but when I get back I'd like to strike up a conversation with you on this if you're up for it. CNC milled slots sounds like just the ticket! And I have a junk computer I can designate for the tool. (It's a PC; I use a Mac for real life. ;) )
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Sorry, i didnt see your post untill now. Yes, email and i will give you my phone number. I dont want everyone to know it is 262-617-8043 so i dont want to post it here.

Im sorry to hear that you use a mac. we can work on that. ;)
 
nice toy Michael,what is your Servo motor is it fanuc?whats the "X" and "Y" travel.Good stuff man have fun.
 
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