Question(s) Concerning BLADE RAP On Traditional Knives ... (possibly Dremel related too)

Will Power said:
Jim, Fontenille-Patauds have a stop-pin so it doesn't matter if you snap them shut they can't hit the backspring. Most other Lags don't have this, it's not a design fault as such but most French knife enthusiasts just won't let them snap shut out of knowledge and if you like, 'tradition' ;)

As for peening the kick, I don't know if I'd dare do it (no peening hammer either) but I'd fear actually shattering the blade......:eek::poop:
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Will, I have two Fontenille Pataud knives. The one on the right is from their 'Gille' line and I have not a single problem or issue with it.
The one on the left is not 'Gille' (and half the price of the Gille). It was designed and created by F-P, in collaboration with the FB group les "Amis Du Couteau Laguiole" (ADCL), and has engraved spring and numbered blade.
My 'ADCL' (Friends of the Laguiole knife) is number 16 (Sweet 16 !!!).

It's hard to see even in the best of light, but there is a very minor, very small flat spot in the blade edge of the ADCL and I have tried to photograph it and indicate it with a red arrow.
I noticed today when I snapped the ADCL closed ... I DID NOT like the sound the metal on metal made. Just didn't sound right. I'll continue to walk the ADCL blade closed in the future.
Not only because of tradition as you correctly pointed out, but because I think it best ... for this particular Fontenille Pataud knife.

EDIT: My Forge de Laquiole in briarwood burl (not pictured), I DO NOT under any circumstance snap shut unless I really want a super dull blade tip ;)

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waynorth said:
Heartbreaker!! 😲 View attachment 1582274View attachment 1582275
Broken Backspring - Flawless old pickbone!! Very old curved Schrade stamp!!
Boo Hoo!! Risky repair job!! It broke due to a historic flaw. Not often occuring on these!! Protect the backspring at all costs!!
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Un-Chained said:
waynorth waynorth
Charlie…. I can hear Robert Plant screamin’ in my ear!
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Loved your comment on Charlie's "Heartbreaker", Gus! :cool::thumbsup::thumbsup::cool: The way "Heartbreaker" jumps right into "Livin' Lovin' Maid" is awesome! That Side 2 of Led Zeppelin II is one of my favorite album sides of all time, right up there with the second side of Abbey Road!

Knife-related question: if the backspring breaks, is there a relatively-easy way for a guy with no mechanical aptitude to turn the knife (or at least one blade of it) into a friction folder??

- GT
 
As others have suggested you can stone the tip until it doesn't rap. But, instead of stoning the kick to house the tip properly, I'd stone the back of the blade to move the tip down a bit. The problem is more likely a problem of blade shape than knife mechanics. You can get into a cycle of raising the tip then lowering the kick and either make yourself crazy or ruin the knife.

GECs are not immune to broken backsprings. I had a backspring break on the master blade of a 66, and I've seen another (I don't remember a specific model, but it was a single blade equal end of some flavor). GECs aren't especially prone to broken springs, I think, nothing like the Schrades and Imperials of years gone by. But there's no point in tempting fate.
 
You really don't want to experience the "ping of doom". There was a happy ending though. I returned it to the maker in Japan and had it back as good as new in 14 days. Talk about excellent service! It was 10 years old too, and there was no charge for the repair!
 
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You can certainly try filing down the backspring in the problem area. I have done this on two slipjoints with no I'll effect but both of them were disassembled. If below the center pin that area is thicker than above it, so as long as you don't make it thinner than that area you should be fine. Although it may look a bit messy if you are doing it with the knife still assembled.

You want to locate where the high spot is, and then file carefully in that spot, checking frequently whether you have done enough. Getting just that spot with a needle file could be tricky though.

From checking on my moose, I don't think any Dremel bits are small enough to get in there, if the channel for each blade is the same width as the channel on a 73. But a big cutting wheel would. Use a vise and lots of light and a steady hand and go slow!!!
 
Will Power said:
Jim, Fontenille-Patauds have a stop-pin so it doesn't matter if you snap them shut they can't hit the backspring. Most other Lags don't have this, it's not a design fault as such but most French knife enthusiasts just won't let them snap shut out of knowledge and if you like, 'tradition' ;)

As for peening the kick, I don't know if I'd dare do it (no peening hammer either) but I'd fear actually shattering the blade......:eek::poop:
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I have watched GEC and Case workers tempering (softening!) the tang end of the blades before assembly!! They use an induction/electric heating system!! And if you are a Medium or High-Tech person, you could Rockwell test at the kick!! Otherwise . . . . . . I guess cracking is a possibility!!
 
To appreciate the nuances of knife making and mechanics, I need to vastly improve my skill set LOL
Maybe I should just stick with rope knives, sheep foot, ram foot, wharncliffe and lamb foot knives ... haven't heard much if any about blade rap on those.
But hey, hang around long enough and see most anything I guess.
Thanks for sharing thoughts, ideas and experience, guys. MUCH appreciated !!!
 
BrotherJim said:
Alternative I've read of that may help alleviate the problem:
1) Wedge flat toothpick bits down into the blade well, against the backspring and in the area beneath the blade stop
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I prefer a small piece of leather in the blade well. A lot easier (and less permanent/potentially catastrophic) than messing around with the backspring or the kick, and after you sharpen the blade a few times you can take it out. :thumbsup:

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BrotherJim said:
GREAT responses !!! AWESOME guys !!!
I hadn't given proper consideration to possible weakening of the backspring D'OH !!!
I think I'll just forget about the Dremel idea ...

That said, I have used a thin flat Jeweler's hand file with cutting lines (don't know what they're called) around the thin edges only, to gently massage the 'hump' in the blade well.
Because the cutting lines are only around the edges of the file, it doesn't damage the blade well walls.

But with possible back spring weakening NOW in my mind ... think I'll just forget about the Jeweler's file idea too :D

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The files you are referring to are called "safe files" as they don't cut on all surfaces.....
 
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