Question - Why so few Stainless Bushcrafters??

A person doesn’t have to limit themselves to a “bushcraft” knife to perform wood crafting. Now there are lots of stainless options.
EXACTLY! I personally don't buy "bushcraft" labeled knives, usually. I just buy any knife that I think would perform well in the woods, which is where I spend most of my time when using fixed blades."Bushcraft" is just a hot word right now. There are some pretty awesome knives out there that are not labeled bushcraft knives, so be sure to look around as much as possible.
 
Nitro V is AEB-L with a pinch of vanadium and nitrogen added. May be slightly better than AEB-L or not - final judgement is not in. S30V, S35VN, M390, Elmax, are some of the best super stainless and all are easy to sharpen, just use a ceramic stick. The nice thing about them is they all have enough vanadium that you shouldn't have to sharpen them in the woods. If you want to do something stupid like battoning with your knife, tell your knife maker so he can slightly soften the blade and leave more meat behind the edge and make the edge slightly thicker. Rather than do all that, however, keep your knife edge thin for slicing and carry a thin axe - you can batton it with a chunk of wood.
 
Why does it seem like all the high-end bushcraft knives are in either 1095, D2, A2, O1, etc.??

hahahaha . . . you noticed that too huh ? :)
Yes it seems everyone driving around in a climate controlled Mercedes (not saying anything . . . I like Mercedes) HAS TO HAVE a stainless steel EDC o_O:confused: . . . and just about everyone out in the humid, rainy woods having just a great time hanging out and doing some bush craft and living large . . . hahahah is doing just fine with the might rust a little stuff.

Generally . . . like I always say : If it rusts or tarnishes I like it.

Here's one reason for you. A couple of days ago the knife gremlins where working over time; I had JUST sharpened this German paring knife in stainless . . . the next day I picked it up and noticed the edge was just all rolled over and beat to sheeeeet. I asked The Chef and she was clueless at first (usually she is pretty careful and easy on knives) later it dawned on her what had happened. So I used a small steel and then my Spyderco Ultra Fine Triangle rod and got it back to almost scary but there was a bur on there that just would not come off with the ceramic rod. I busssed out my Norton 8,000 water stone and he took the bur off. Hair whittling again (yes the steel at the edge is "stressed" but . . . I like living on the edge and didn't let it stress me. :);):)
IMG_3288.jpg

Then, the same day the paring knife got beat up I ran into some plated brass with my M4 blade (doesn't rust much around here but will tarnish if I really make an effort. The edge was a little dulled; not rolled much that I could tell.
I just took the Ultra Fine Triangle rod to the M4 and made the lightest, lightest bur and took it off with the same ceramic rod and the edge just came back like I couldn't believe (once again; seems like all I ever use to touch up this blade for just months and months) . . . the edge was even more sharp than the paring knife.
IMG_4683 2.JPG

Bottom line :
The rustable, tarnishable stuff is just more fun to sharpen.
I like it better. I would have it in every knife I own if I had the option.
 
It's all in the title - why are there so few stainless bushcrafting knives out there?

I don't really like having to oil blades and I've never liked the look of powder coats.

Why does it seem like all the high-end bushcraft knives are in either 1095, D2, A2, O1, etc.?? The ones that are in stainless are almost always in some kind of exotic supersteel that'll almost certainly be a huge pain to sharpen.

Anyone know if there are well-made, good-looking bushcraft knives out there in pedestrian, relatively easy-to-sharpen stainless steels that I may have missed?

I'm a newbie here - this is my first post. Maybe I'm asking a stupid question, but please be polite in your answers. Thanks in advance!

The reasons for "Bushcrafters" not choosing stainless are simple.

1-They drive to wherever they go. (So they don't walk miles with wet knives inside wet sheaths)

2-They stay indoor when it rains (cottage or log cabins).

3-They like to think they act like woodsmen of the 19th Century.

Meanwhile, the real woodsmen of the 18-19th Century, looking down from heaven on all this comfort, luxury, and the always fresh and available oil rags, can't help but wish that all that beautiful stainless had been available when they were around...

Gaston
 
The reasons for "Bushcrafters" not choosing stainless are simple.

1-They drive to wherever they go. (So they don't walk miles with wet knives inside wet sheaths)

2-They stay indoor when it rains (cottage or log cabins).

3-They like to think they act like woodsmen of the 19th Century.

Meanwhile, the real woodsmen of the 18-19th Century, looking down from heaven on all this comfort, luxury, and the always fresh and available oil rags, can't help but wish that all that beautiful stainless had been available when they were around...

Gaston
Going to respond on that falsehood you posted about carbon steel being illegal to use in a commercial kitchen yet?

No? Not much else you post is probably correct either.
 
The reasons for "Bushcrafters" not choosing stainless are simple.

1-They drive to wherever they go. (So they don't walk miles with wet knives inside wet sheaths)

2-They stay indoor when it rains (cottage or log cabins).

3-They like to think they act like woodsmen of the 19th Century.

Meanwhile, the real woodsmen of the 18-19th Century, looking down from heaven on all this comfort, luxury, and the always fresh and available oil rags, can't help but wish that all that beautiful stainless had been available when they were around...

Gaston
I don't think so.
They wouldn't give it a second thought because to them steel was what they knew and maintaining the tools they depended on was also what they knew.

Btw there are some who go all out and truly do live as a 19th century woodsmen when they're out in the woods.
It's serious business but some people do it.
 
The Mora's in Sandvick are great bush crafters ... LT Wright has some great offerings in AEB-L now and I can say they perform great and sharpening is as easy as it gets and the AEB-L takes an amazing edge ...

Benchmade Bushcrafter I believe is in S30V ... not sure how it performs as I have never used one ...


JJ

I own a Benchmade 162 Bushcrafter. It seems like I use it for everything but woodcraft. It's a decent knife but the leather sheath is poorly designed. Benchmade also offers a Kydex sheath, if you prefer.

The first time I used it, I dinged it against a rock and messed up the edge but brought it back using a Spyderco Sharpmaker. You can still slightly see where the edge was damaged but it seems to cut just fine.

Let's see... the blade is just under 5 inches of S30v and it seems pretty easy to sharpen. Benchmade uses G10 for the scales and people report they take some getting used to. I have also found this to be the case. The knife seems more comfortable with my hand a little forward on the grip. I have found it very comfortable for detail work. Make a FFG blade with this handle and you would have an amazing kitchen/camp knife.

Overall the knife meets my needs very well. However, I am not sure that I would purchase it again. Carothers Field Knife or EDC2 fixed blade are both better knives. So is the Survive! GSO series. I think all of them are more money, though. Just my opinion.

For the money, I have also been impressed with Ontario's stainless bushcraft knife.
 
Carbon steel has soul. It will work with you and allows you to work with it.
Those who roamed and existed in the woods many moons ago had only carbon steel; they were wet and cold often but they, and their knives, survived. In fact, they not only survived - they thrived.

I was with none other than Ethan Becker one time and he had one his ever present BK-16 knives on him - a bushcraft knife if there ever was one, and after using it I offered to wipe it clean and oil it for him. He said something along the lines of, "Don't you dare! Let it develop a nice patina which will protect it just fine."

While some go to great lengths to avoid patina as if it were cancer, others accept, cherish it and, in some cases, even force it with pickle juice, mustard and all manner of caustic concoctions.

Carbon steels do have soul - they are forgiving and easy to keep keen. There were (and are) attributes for those who had to be in the woods and those who play near its edges.
 
Fallkniven F1/S1/A1
Mora and hultafors affordables
Customs in every flavour, mine are cpm154, s35vn
Benchmade uses s30v
Spyderco has a couple stainless bushcrafters, one in s90v
Lionsteel M4 in m390

There are enough. For those of us who spend a great deal of the year in wet, cold, and snow, it’s nice to have modern stainless.
 
Fallkniven F1/S1/A1
Mora and hultafors affordables
Customs in every flavour, mine are cpm154, s35vn
Benchmade uses s30v
Spyderco has a couple stainless bushcrafters, one in s90v
Lionsteel M4 in m390

There are enough. For those of us who spend a great deal of the year in wet, cold, and snow, it’s nice to have modern stainless.
No, no, NO! Apparently we all insist on Carbon Steel! Ignore the Helle and Fällkniven SS blades, it doesn’t suit Gaston’s straw man... ;)
 
Carbon steel has soul. It will work with you and allows you to work with it.
Those who roamed and existed in the woods many moons ago had only carbon steel; they were wet and cold often but they, and their knives, survived. In fact, they not only survived - they thrived.

I was with none other than Ethan Becker one time and he had one his ever present BK-16 knives on him - a bushcraft knife if there ever was one, and after using it I offered to wipe it clean and oil it for him. He said something along the lines of, "Don't you dare! Let it develop a nice patina which will protect it just fine."

While some go to great lengths to avoid patina as if it were cancer, others accept, cherish it and, in some cases, even force it with pickle juice, mustard and all manner of caustic concoctions.

Carbon steels do have soul - they are forgiving and easy to keep keen. There were (and are) attributes for those who had to be in the woods and those who play near its edges.
I do so agree. But prepare for a lorry load of manure to be flung at you by a certain Canadian forum member. Although I really do value laminated stainless steel for outdoor knives, most of my fixed blades are carbon. You are right, they do have soul. And if you just let the damn things get a patina, you don’t need to do much in the way of rust protection when out and about in all weathers. I certainly don’t tote oil and rags about. Funnily enough, if you are cooking food outdoors, you actually can produce rendered fat from meat, otherwise known as... grease. I wonder what that could be used for?! Honestly, from what some people write, you’d think that nobody else ever experiences regular, heavy rainfall. :rolleyes:
 
Most of my large camping/bushcraft knives are 1095, D2, etc. Works for me.

I also have a bunch of Bucks that are stainless and also work well. A Buck 119 or 120 are great hunting/bushcraft knives IME. And super cheap with a fantastic warranty.
 
Well a lot of people like the traditional steels for bushcraft. Lots think you need to stick to the traditional steels and ways.(O1, 1095, 52100, etc.)

Im sure you can find more stainless options now than previously. AEB-L, Nitro-V, CPM 154. These will work if you live near the ocean. You can get away with carbon steels, but if you want stainless go for it! Nitro v is still very new so it will be interesting to see if anyone makes a bushcrafter with that!

There are several companies that produce stainless bushcraft knives scandi grind and all. There are also custom makers (myself included) that will likely be more than happy to make one for you in stainless steel.

Personally i like newer high carbon steels for outdoors knives. Currently i use Z-Wear for my bushcraft style knives. It can support the scandi grind and gets scary sharp and holds that edge for quite a while. Its relatively easy to sharpen too. (And it doesnt explode into an orange cloud of rust if i drop it in the snow like i did yesterday. Contrary to what a particular member thinks)
 
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