Questions about getting started

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beiter

Joined
Jan 19, 2015
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I would like to get started into knife making for myself (as a hobby) and to see if my son might get interested. I inherited a decent amount of wood working tools, mostly saws. I do have a small bench grinder (two stone wheels, course and less course, about 1/2" wide)

Is it essential to get a belt grinder? From all the videos and things I've read, they look pretty critical to successful knife making. I doubt a decent finish can be accomplished on this bench grinder. In watching craigslist, there seems to be a fairly huge world of belt grinder/sanders out there.

Can anyone recommend a used model and brand to watch for, that is adequate and inexpensive to get started on? Something that can get the job done so I can just see if I would like doing this. Hoping to get something under $100, with a little luck (or estate sale..)

any other tips for someone in my position? Necessary equipment, realistic starting goals, etc..

thank you!
 
Here is a good filing jig demonstrated by our friend Aaron Gough. Cheap and simple to build.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9iNDRwwBQQ



I think a belt sander is the way to go when budget allows. But doing it with hand tools will test your resolve and let you know if you really want to do this for long. I think if you stick with it and finish a decent knife you can use every day you will be hooked. Don't forget to post pictures of your designs here before you get started cutting steel so the experienced folks here can help you catch any problems.
 
I started out with a cheap 1x30 grinder. It does not grind steel nearly as fast as a 2x72 but it got the job done for a while. I now use it for sharpening, so it still has a place in my shop.

You can get a cheap harbor freight 1x30 if you're in the states. Otherwise watch craigslist for them. A craftsman 2x42 would be an even better option if you can fit it into your budget.
 
I got my craftsman 2x42 for like $140. Good quality belts from trugrit.com.

Putting together my 2x72 Esteem this weekend though!
 
i4Marc said:
Here is a good filing jig demonstrated by our friend Aaron Gough. Cheap and simple to build.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9iNDRwwBQQ



I think a belt sander is the way to go when budget allows. But doing it with hand tools will test your resolve and let you know if you really want to do this for long. I think if you stick with it and finish a decent knife you can use every day you will be hooked. Don't forget to post pictures of your designs here before you get started cutting steel so the experienced folks here can help you catch any problems.
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This might be the way to go if I don't get lucky with a used grinder. Are the holes a standard distance apart? It looks about 1" spacing. I listened through twice but missed it both times if it was mentioned.

Regarding the holes that the eye bolt goes into, my impression is that he just lowers the bolt in the last hole to grind toward the spine. In what case would you move the eyebolt to another hole (or in the extreme case, to the first hole rather than the last?)

Thanks all, very helpful information.
 
Many folks like to start by grinding down to pre-HT edge thickness at about a 45 degree angle then flatten the angle and grind up to the spine. The initial could be done on the first hole then move down a bit then back a hole etc...
 
If I'm using a file jig and assuming I'd send something out for heat treating and hardening, could anyone recommend a type of steel to start with? I've been looking at Jantz supply's selections for blade steel. I'm guessing one of the stainless or high carbon steels? I'm not sure what kind would be better to work with using hand tools.
 
I am a total novice and still gathering advice myself, not even finished my first knife yet, but most folks on here seem to concur that 1084 carbon is the best newb steel. Of course I didn't read that before ordering my 1095 steel and am sure I will pay the price (literally) for that when it comes time for heat treat.
 
Skeaterbait said:
I am a total novice and still gathering advice myself, not even finished my first knife yet, but most folks on here seem to concur that 1084 carbon is the best newb steel. Of course I didn't read that before ordering my 1095 steel and am sure I will pay the price (literally) for that when it comes time for heat treat.
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thank you very much! Harbor Freight has a 4x36 3/4 HP belt grinder on sale for $80 too.
 
beiter said:
If I'm using a file jig and assuming I'd send something out for heat treating and hardening, could anyone recommend a type of steel to start with? I've been looking at Jantz supply's selections for blade steel. I'm guessing one of the stainless or high carbon steels? I'm not sure what kind would be better to work with using hand tools.
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Well if you're going to send it out for heat treatment, then you don't need to stick with the usual recommendation of 1084 as a starter steel. 1084 is usually recommended because it's the easiest to heat treat using simple, backyard techniques. If you're sending it out for heat treatment, I would pick an inexpensive stainless steel like 440C. It's a great all around steel and very easy to work with hand tools.

As far as which hole the eyebolt goes into on the jig, it just depends how high up you want your grind to go. Assuming you're using 1/8" stock, if you put it all the way in the back it will end up as a full flat grind. If if you move it 3 or 4 spots close to the blade, you'll end up with a sort of saber grind. The beautiful thing about hand filing a blade is you have plenty of time to adjust it as you go. I used the jig for my first half dozen blades before I bought a 2x42 and it works beautifully.
 
Michael Black said:
Well if you're going to send it out for heat treatment, then you don't need to stick with the usual recommendation of 1084 as a starter steel. 1084 is usually recommended because it's the easiest to heat treat using simple, backyard techniques. If you're sending it out for heat treatment, I would pick an inexpensive stainless steel like 440C. It's a great all around steel and very easy to work with hand tools.

As far as which hole the eyebolt goes into on the jig, it just depends how high up you want your grind to go. Assuming you're using 1/8" stock, if you put it all the way in the back it will end up as a full flat grind. If if you move it 3 or 4 spots close to the blade, you'll end up with a sort of saber grind. The beautiful thing about hand filing a blade is you have plenty of time to adjust it as you go. I used the jig for my first half dozen blades before I bought a 2x42 and it works beautifully.
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I think someone said that sending it to a company for heat treating can cost $25 and up. Do you know if that's true?

Man I'm living in a town that was steel production central 50 years ago.. I wonder if there are any local services.
 
I also tried a bench grinder when I started... a file is faster and easier! I'd get something with a 2" wide belt if you can... my $30 4x36 was great for my first knives. I'd grind to hog metal then use a file and blocks to clean up the grinds.

I firmly believe that a nice belt grinder is not needed on a hobby level but they are nice to remove metal quickly.

Check out Peters and Paul Bos for heat treating.
 
beiter said:
I think someone said that sending it to a company for heat treating can cost $25 and up. Do you know if that's true?

Man I'm living in a town that was steel production central 50 years ago.. I wonder if there are any local services.
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Doubtful that there's anywhere near you that works with the specific knife alloy heat treating, but it doesn't hurt to try. For that matter, Peter's heat treat is based out of Meadville PA. Not sure how close that is to you. Yes, it's going to run you about $25 if you're only getting them treated 1 or 2 at a time. If you're worried about that cost, then I recommend you buy some 1084 from Aldo at New Jersey Steel Baron (http://newjerseysteelbaron.com/) and heat treat it in a charcoal grill or homemade forge. If you do a search on this site there are about a gazillion threads with info on how to do that.
 
Michael Black said:
Doubtful that there's anywhere near you that works with the specific knife alloy heat treating, but it doesn't hurt to try. For that matter, Peter's heat treat is based out of Meadville PA. Not sure how close that is to you. Yes, it's going to run you about $25 if you're only getting them treated 1 or 2 at a time. If you're worried about that cost, then I recommend you buy some 1084 from Aldo at New Jersey Steel Baron (http://newjerseysteelbaron.com/) and heat treat it in a charcoal grill or homemade forge. If you do a search on this site there are about a gazillion threads with info on how to do that.
Click to expand...

actually meadville is about 60 miles from here. I'm in Ellwood city. Thank you very much for the info!
 
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